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22-RE Timing chain noise?

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toyotaproblem:(

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok here is the deal. I'll try and keep it short yet descriptive. About 3-4 years ago the time chain guide broke on my 22-re motor. The truck was 13 years old and had about 125000 miles on it. The chain jumped a tooth but didn't clobber the valves so i replaced it to the tune of 1500 bucks. It got a whole new kit.

Truck ran fine up intil now. About 6 months ago i noticed some occasional ticking. I'm assuming it was the chain (it sounds a lot like what my cbr 600 sounded like) but it would go away after the motor warmed up. Some googling has provided info on some ticking when the motor was cold but not hot. I didn't get it totally warmed up today but the ticking didnt go away and i had to get home.

Heres my issue. The truck now only has 156,000 miles on it and its only been 3-4 years. What would cause intermitant timing chain slaping? It sometimes does it when its cold, the motor that is, but often it doesn't. Most of the time its midway between startup and normal operation temp. I read the tensoner is oil controled. I dont know if i'm getting low oil pressure or what. I have 5-30 in it as i was getting ready for winter. I've read oil gets thicker as it heats. I was wondering if maybe thats why it often goes away when the motor is hot? Maybe when the oil gets up to temp and acts like 30 weight oil it goes away?

I dont drive much but i'm good about changing my oil. What worries me is if its on the way out why would it fail after only 3-4 years and 25000 miles?

I really dont want to drop another 1800 bucks into the truck and i'm not sure i'm comfortable tackling this myself.

Edit:
Drove to work this morning. It made the noise from start up and for about 5 min. Less than about a mile later the noise is gone. I reved the motor and nothing. Everything sounds normal again, which makes taking it to a mechanic pointless. I'll see what happens on the way home. The noise sounds like a timing chain to me but the behavor is weird. I wouldn't think it would be intermitant like this and like i said i replaced it less than 4 years ago.

I am wondering if it is a bearing, though it doesn't sound like it (to me). My truck was parked outside for 2 days and it rained and got down to about 36. Usually it is parked in a garage so i dont if is some slight rust or something weird could have got on some of the bearings or what.

On the way home it started back up again. Like i said it used to go away after the motor was hot (10-15 min).

I'll probably take it to the shop but does anyone have any suggestions? If it is the chain does anyone have an estimate on how long it might be before it breaks?

Thanks, so much for any help.
 
#2 · (Edited)
oil gets thinner as it gets warm or hot..

it is hard to tell what your noise is from your description.. And you paid Way to much to have it done the first time.. Most of the time the timing chain will make a little noise at start and at idle when they are getting loose.. Most of the time when you are running at rpm it is fine due to the tensioner pumping up..

give us a video of the noise.. Post it on youtube.. And there is no way for anyone to predict when a chain is going to break if it even was a timing chain
 
#4 · (Edited)
toyotaproblem:( said:
I thought it acted like 5 weight oil at startup (easy flowing) and 30 weight once warm.

?
Click to expand...

nope.. Google what oil ratings mean


you could have a chain noise.. Like I said take a video and post it up.. Hell for all I know it could be a loose bolt or nut that rattles from time to time
 
#6 ·
Oil definitely does not get thicker when it heats up. When any liquid heats up, it gets thinner because it is getting closer to the gaseous state. This is called the boiling point. That's why starting your truck in the dead of winter is hardest on the engine. All the oil that's been sitting in there all night is cold and thick and doesn't want to move.

How loud is the sound? The 22RE is called a 4-banger for a reason. I would be worried if the sound were exceptionally loud, but otherwise, it could be normal.

BTW, you paid way too much money just for a timing chain replacement. I could've done that for you in my parking lot for half as much and even then I'd feel bad for charging you so much! Maybe for all that money they did a half ass job and one of the timing guides broke again...

Why not do some work in your garage? It's an easy engine to work on
 
#7 ·
you got your shit RIPPED OFF!!!!!! you can get a full engine rebuild for under or right at $1500!!!!! pull the valve cover off and look down in there and see if you can see if the guides are broke.

oil gets THINNER as it warms.

injectors make a ticking noise also....

a bad timing chain will rattle right on start up, then go away for the most part.

by the way...did i mention you paid WAY TO MUCH to have a timing chain put in your truck? you should probably go run the truck through their building...if they are even still in business for ripping people off.
 
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#8 ·
Yota711 said:
you got your shit RIPPED OFF!!!!!! you can get a full engine rebuild for under or right at $1500!!!!! pull the valve cover off and look down in there and see if you can see if the guides are broke.

oil gets THINNER as it warms.

injectors make a ticking noise also....

a bad timing chain will rattle right on start up, then go away for the most part.

by the way...did i mention you paid WAY TO MUCH to have a timing chain put in your truck? you should probably go run the truck through their building...if they are even still in business for ripping people off.
Click to expand...
I think he got the point the first time it was written.:flipoff2:
 
#10 ·
If it was a shitty timing chain replacement then it might be time for another.

Have you ever thought that maybe you are running to thin of a oil for that old engine?
 
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#12 · (Edited)
Mr Stubs said:
If it was a shitty timing chain replacement then it might be time for another.

Have you ever thought that maybe you are running to thin of a oil for that old engine?
Click to expand...
I used to run 5-30 in my old 22RE, and it had 200000 on it. I never had any problems.
Though come to think of it I seemed to run that in the winter and 10-30 in the summer. Hell i dont rember. I think i did 2 oil changes over a 45000 mile period. Just add a quart or 2 a week instead of changing the oil pump seal. :flipoff2: but i did run those two types.

Hell you could try running a thicker oil.

EDIT: I was wrong, it wasnt 5-30 it was 20 50 and 10-30
 
#14 ·
Not gonna download some shit to hear it but here goes my over the internet possible diagnosis. If it is a sharp tick that is relative to engine speed check your valve adjustment. Valve clearance tightens up when an engine warms up. If it sounds more like clatter than a tick consider this. You say you change your oil religiously but it may not have been enough. The oil pressure that expands the chain tensioner comes through an ok size galley and then meets up with the tensioner witch has an uber small orafice. If theres any sludge build up there it could affect how fast it recieves oil pressure. look inside the valve cover (while ispecting the guides like toyrunner recomended) and see how it looks I bet with your milage its probably a little sludgy. If this seems to be the case (and the guide is untouched) you may want to try cleaning it up a bit with some atf dexIII. Dextron III has alot of detergants in it and will help clean out all the impossible to get to oil passages. Ive let and engine idle (no load!) on straight atf in place of motor oil for around forty min. (good trick for collapsed hydraulic lifters. but you got a rev it to get higher oil pressure. This does not apply here just a general tip). I have also replaced one to two quarts of oil with atf and driven on it for the span between oil changes. You have a high milage motor and I don't know what condition your bearings are in so do this at your own risk. If you ever decide to change a timing set your self on a 22r take the oil filter off and blow compressed air through the pressure side and watch the sludge fly out of the vein that goes to the tensioner! could save you a head ache down the road. Best of luck. Who charged you $1500 bucks by the way?
 
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#15 ·
I have the same problem, so I started running 20/50 oil. It has made it 95% better, but I still hear a slight ticking coming from behind the distributor. I'm curious how yours turns out maybe I'll get another option.
 
#16 ·
where do you live?
why are you running a 5w oil?
do a goggle search on oil
oil wt's are for temp
a 20/50 is good from like 20* to 110*
I'll run a 10/40 as it doesn't get below 30* here often, and summers highs stay in the 90*s with short 100*+ weeks

alto of the 5wt oils are from new car manufactures trying to get there MPG's up

you search oil you will get way more info then you can read in a year, I've read it over the last 30+ years, but my auto shop teacher in HS nailed it when I was 14-15 and it stuck, the basics are a great thing:) [he was a good teacher]

that said I've seen the autozone t-chains have guides break off in under 15,000 miles

you need a quality chain and steel backed guide, call Ted or DOA
back when toy made the 20r they did this at the factory, +double row chain, early 22r's were same, then they went cheap, I hear it was to gain a bit of horsepower, it's a rumor so don't take that as fact, lol
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
It was the dealer who fixed it and it should have go an oem chain, parts, etc. I live the midwest and i put the 5-30 in b/c it is going to get cold here in a month or two and thats what the manual says to use. I just changed it from 10-30 but it will be below freezing in winter. I might drain it and try 10-30. Guess this would be my cheapest attempt to fix it.
 
#19 · (Edited)
your oil wont fix anything.. If you have a motor noise you have a motor noise.. Oil will not fix a problem.. No one here can diagnose your problem via telecaneesis:D:D:D

everyone can guess a million differant things.. Like said before most of the time chain noise is at start up and low idle and will go away once the motor is revved, pull the valve cover off and look at the guides.. Quick and easy.. then go from there
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
YpUn said:
I have the same problem, so I started running 20/50 oil. It has made it 95% better, but I still hear a slight ticking coming from behind the distributor. I'm curious how yours turns out maybe I'll get another option.
Click to expand...
How long have you been doing this? If its just a pressure type thing and the chain/guide wont break i dont mind the noise. Could the rattling noise just be the chain bouncing around due to lack of pressure? I've just heard that when the chain starts making that noise its on the way out. Now i dont know how that could be b/c it hasn't been that long since i fixed it. The valves were ajusted when i had the timing chain fixed the last time. The noise is more a rattle than a tick.

So is there the possiblity that the guide and chain are ok but its making noise due to lack of pressure b/c of sluge build up?
 
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