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Discussion starter · #81 · (Edited)
cut out plates for the passenger side, blew some holes in them, and threw them in place.
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Dont feel like welding at the moment..
Made a little inter-locking tab that goes into the 2x4 on the first plate, i should have thought of that sooner and i could have done that on the other side...
And still need to trim the bottoms of all these plates so they look decent. Not too concerned about it right now.
 
Discussion starter · #82 · (Edited)
So i finished welding the passenger side plates in tonite, shot some black spray paint on them, jacked the front axle up and put the wheels/tires on it, moved it around a bit till its in about the spot where i want it (havent measured yet)-i'll save that for the daytime.
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Measured for the front lower links and they should be 40". Going to go with a long arm type set up that everyone uses, poly bushing on axle end and 1.25 heim on frame side. The upper links will come off of the lowers and have a heim joint and poly bushing.
 
Discussion starter · #83 ·
So ive been squaring up the body for a minute today. It wasnt perfectly straight when i parked and put it on the stands. So i used the cherry picker to pick the back of the body up and moved it over a tad. Now i'm working on centering the axles under there and still working on getting the rear axle to around the same width as my narrowed front axle...
 
Discussion starter · #84 ·
So finally got the track width finished up. Had to un-flip the rear hubs and press out and back in the wheel studs. So with the front end narrowed hubs out and the rear end hubs in the width is almost the same. Looks almost dead on. So now i got to order some more adapters and heims so i can start building the links.
 
Where your front box tube frame butts up to you now plated frame I would add a triangle truss to support that butt joint. You could cut a piece of leftover box tube into a triangle at 45 degrees on both sides to help support that corner.
you could add a fish plate on top of that as well to help support the welds.

The weight of the motor mounts, front spring mounts will all be stressed at that weld.
 
Discussion starter · #86 ·
Yep i know. I am going to cut a triangle piece of left over 2x4 and put it under there as a gusset to support where the 2x4 is welded to the plate. Just like you are describing.

and here is a pic from progress of last nite. Got the width finished. Axles centered up and ready for me to start building link mounts/links whenever my ballistic joints, square tube adapters, and rockwell mounting surface plate comes in.

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Discussion starter · #87 · (Edited)
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Big Block Chevy Fit good. Had to move the transmission forward like 2". Probaly goin to move motor and all forward another inch or two. Havent welded the engine mount crossmember yet cuz i'm waiting on my hedman tight tube headers to get here, might have to move something around... But its looking like ive got plenty of room.
 
Discussion starter · #89 ·
Am I the only one that thinks this will never work?

I dont see what the problem is... my original frame was ripping apart. so i cut it out and was goin to make a new front clip, then decided to just go ahead and make it wider so i could put my big block in there...
I mean bracing is not done, front crossmember isnt there, tubes to help strengthen it are no where close to being made yet....
 
It seems like you have no plan and are just welding stuff on. Butt weld the 2x4 and put a big block in and somebody had to tell you to fishplate. Any big block worth its weight will pull those right off the thin unibody or at least tear it.

Looks like with the motor that low it will hit the pumpkin or at least have no uptravel.

Take a step back and make yourself a plan. Draw it with pencil and paper if you have to.
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
I still dont know what a fishplate is but... i'm no where near finished on the frame plating, still have to trim the bottoms and plate the bottom. The motor is just mocked up there waiting on my headers to arrive so i can check fitment, i'm thinking the motor will come forward and up some. And yes i dont have much up travel cuz of the huge ass rockwell diff. Ive got a little more uptravel than shadowgames has with his rocks.
 
Discussion starter · #96 ·
Did you read or understand any of the advice that jeepcomj gave you on naxja?

Yeah, he said watch the vertical welds to the unibody they will crack. I only have there are 2 vertical welds: 1 on the inside of the driver rail and 1 on the outside of the driver rail that really is only from plate to plate and very little unibody.

And the cinder blocks arent like that anymore, ive got big wooden blocks and then 1 cinder block turned the correct way.
 
turning 42's with a stock box doesn't even seem like a viable option to me...
well, its worked for the past few years...
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dang them stock boxes are somethin arent they:D

Honestly bro you got some issues here but man you work quick . I'm in the middle of my build that I started just about the same time as you and I'm no nowhere you are..props for even trying this ...
.I like the idea you are working with , gives me some good ideas and possible problems with a big block..

hope that 44 holds up
 
Yep i know. I am going to cut a triangle piece of left over 2x4 and put it under there as a gusset to support where the 2x4 is welded to the plate. Just like you are describing.

and here is a pic from progress of last nite. Got the width finished. Axles centered up and ready for me to start building link mounts/links whenever my ballistic joints, square tube adapters, and rockwell mounting surface plate comes in.

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it's lookin really good....man you got some serious work in that thing...good job...
 
Here is the sharpie drawing.

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Easiest way to explain it. Just weld the plate over the butt weld. This will distribute the load.

With those axles and that motor you will need some serious reinforcing.
Especially since you say you already have cracks.
 
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