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#41 ·
ok, i uploaded some pics of my garbage.

Disclaimer:

again, i am not 1/100th the fabricator that some of these guys are, so my shit looks a lot more raw than most... lol :flipoff2: it does NOT get driven on the street. I check for cracks chronically, because i feel it is not if it will break somewhere, but WHEN it will break that matters. You can use it as an example of what NOT to do, but dont think its the end all, be all. Others do MUCH better work.

now, with the disclaimer aside.... here are the photos.. the second to the last one is a photo of a toyota i am sticking together for a buddy, for free.... at my place, you get what you pay for.
The last photo is my truck posing in a ditch to check and see how much flex it had when i didnt have enough pressure in the air shocks. seems to flex out really well, I can hit a 14" water bar at 35 and hardly feel it.
 

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#44 · (Edited)
i did use coils, and i had to make some adjustments to it to make them fit.

the steering column shaft goes right outside the frame rail on a full size truck frame. on an s10, it goes inside. this might help you out. if you can place your spring buckets accordingly, you can have almost any spring combo you want, or even have an adjustable height setup using a stock bronco coil bucket and drilling the holes for a few different heights.

I used 8 inch superlift coils for an f150. superstiff, super bouncy. i would not reccommend them to someone with a small block or smaller engine. my big block didnt have enough weight to offset the bounce. a lighter spring would be much happier. you could almost use stock f150 springs, or 2-4 inch springs, but i would not suggest more. you dont want a HUGE amount of height. if you dont extend your arms out, you will have bind in the stock arms. I added to mine till they were 48 inches from the center of the axle to the center of the heim joint that Im using. thats about 14 inches more than stock. makes a great difference.

It also helps that i moved the engine back 13 inches, too. while coils were better than the stock leafs, and better than 57inch leafs, there was still something to be desired as far as ride. now, it rides like a caddy.

i cant help you with matching up ride height in the rear. mine doesnt.. i lowered the rear of mine just to help transfer weight... its lower than factory.
 
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#45 · (Edited)
Zuk Rider said:
WOW! how petty the pricks here are! you can blow that junior shit out your ass. and the other guy isnt worth my time.

i read the whole fucking thing, and none of it covers spring height comparisons. and i saw the guy, but that post was 06. how hard is it for you to say "oh sure, this guy does"

really

i have been on this site awhile, and ive seen this happen before. ive done all kinds of my own work, but this is my first s10, and my first sas. fab isnt hard, just time taxing

either way, i guess i know who not to ask.

****
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Did I hear ***-- In for the win :laughing:
 
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#48 ·
Zuk Rider said:
thank you.

if i just spring over the rear, and use a cherokee 30, will 2.5 yj springs work or will it be off level? if so, how much aqnd which way?

thanx
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Not gonna say anything 'bout the 30 cuz its already been said...
On mine i used Pro-Comp 2.5" YJ springs up front, in rear i used the original blazer main leaf and made a "bastard" pack with the leafs of the 2.5" YJ's. This left the nose of it 4" higher than the rear, which i corrected with two add-a-leafs and longer shackles. You just can't beet the simplisity of a leaf spring, and the fab work up front wasn't difficult at all. i would say it took maybe 5hrs to weld/fab/install my 44 up front, and that included cuttin' out the ifs.
 
#51 · (Edited)
Mud Slayer 2.0 said:
wait... WHAt !
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no kidding...
First off the spring perches are there for a reason. don't be scared to weld the cast with some heat and nickle rod, mine holds fine
your not going to be able to steer worth a shit with your leaves so far apart and your flex will fuckin blow. I can understand that it's a little easier to make the rear mounts on the frame this way, but that is fugly and not very functional my .02

Edit: ah fuck me I just took a closer look and wow low and behold your perches are already on the top WTF are you doing?
 
#54 ·
wow bigboy that looks scary. why would you move the springs outboard? I think I would redo.... um all of that... including the 10 bolt axle. hopefully you keep that on your farm and don't endanger anybody else's lives by operating that in a public place.
 
#57 ·
wasn't tryin to take over Zuk's thread, but i posted pics of my leaf spring set up to give an example(oh well):shaking:. the springs set 4" further in than they did on the full size truck the axle came off of....would have reversed the shackles in hind sight, but it is a trailer queen and it holds together for what it is
 
#58 ·
BigBoy70 said:
Image

Front installed
Image

After the rear whas installed
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Image
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if you havent already gusset the hell out of that front crossmember that thing just looks like its going to bend or break. i used 1/4 inch square tubing and ended up bending mine down a little bit cause i didnt reinforce it.

heres a cheep, simple, and relilable way to make rear hangers for a s10. they been holding up great so far

just took some 3x4 3/16inch square and cut it to fit and welded a bunch of gussets angle iron and whatever other crap i had laying around :smokin:

Image

Image

Image
 
#59 ·
BigBoy70 said:
wasn't tryin to take over Zuk's thread, but i posted pics of my leaf spring set up to give an example(oh well):shaking:. the springs set 4" further in than they did on the full size truck the axle came off of....would have reversed the shackles in hind sight, but it is a trailer queen and it holds together for what it is
Click to expand...
you have the springs mounted further apart from each other than they were in the fullsize truck. the right one would be on the edge of the differential and you can clearly see the original one one the left.

having your springs mounted so close the the wheel ends will reduce how sharp you can turn your wheel.

besides all that it basically looks like shit, nothing is aligned and looks like a time bomb with a really short fuse.

if you are going to go the the work of doing a sas, why not do it right? but then i hate doing things twice.
 
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