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Champion

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Well, now that I have completed my 1 ton axle swap I think I need to replace my sorry looking factory skid plate. Like so many of you guys have found the stock skid plate is not quite as durable as you would like. Now I have already did my fair share of searching and reading and still not found what I a looking for. I am running a TF999 w/ np231 t-case and looking for what the PBB members have come up with. So lets see those pics of your custom skid plates.

Thanks,
MJC.
 
Did this to my 4 banger YJ 5 years ago.

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Have never had any issues with it to date and it has seen alot of abuse. I like it so well I did something similar 2 months ago to my 4.0L YJ on 40's with an Atlas . I had to totally redesign it compared to my 2.5L as the auto tranny had to have a skid, dimentions were way different and I had to work around the Atlas. The skid is flat like my 2.5L, but I had the Atlas clocked down below the skid plate so in that area I had to cut the flat skid and worked some metal around it so that I was still able to keep 70% of my flat skid still flat. Have had it out on 3 hard core trips so far and it is holding up good. Sorry I don't have any pictures but if your any good at fabricating you should be able to make something similar work. Got the bushing from Ballistic Fab on the last project. MORE also has them as well as others if you look around. Used 1.5 sq on the 2.5L. 1x2 on last project. Also needed a 1" BL or you will need to do some tub work. Flat skid is 1/4" steel re-enforced on the tub side. If you don't re-enforce it it will bow/bend up after some serious rock hammering or playing turtle.

zman
 
custom skid plate

This is not on a 'Jeep', but the idea is simple and works well on my 'Bronco' buggy.

This skid plate is nice for two reasons: 1.) Easy to take on and off. 2.)No bolt heads on the bottom surface to hang up on or bend or clog!

The skid basically 'catches' with a 'c' mouth to the front crossmember and bolts up to the back crossmember. Extra bracing was added to the center section for insurance. You can see in the pics I welded on little 'boat slides' or fins on the outer edges to meet up with the Bronco frame. The 4 bolts that attach in the rear use a welded nut on the outer part of the skid, and I drilled catch holes in the rear crossmember for the bold to screw into. Works very well, I wouldn't change anything.

Specs: This is once piece made out of 1/4" plate and weighs about 50lbs. My skid height/belly height is approx. 23-25" depending on the temp. in the coilshocks, running 40" Maxxis CC.
 

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