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1998 Dodge Durango getting a 6BT, NV 4500 and 203 205 Doubler

127K views 206 replies 78 participants last post by  mtnbikeboy  
#1 ·
Alright so I always read a bunch and hardly post so here we go.

I have a 1998 Dodge Durango with a 5.9L V8 (well I still have the engine but it is no longer in the truck)that I have been building the last three years. I have done a whole lot and now plan on doing a whole lot more. That engine has recently come out in favor of a 5.9L Cummins diesel. I have an NV4500 to go behind it and then I am planning on a 203 205 doubler. I am replacing the rear Dana 60 with a 14 Bolt cause I kept breaking axle shafts in the D60. I have a detroit for that. I am not planning on touching the front Dana 60 with 5.13's, a detroit and 35 spline outers. My old suspension was a four link triangulated in the rear with airbags and a five link up front. I used Poision Spyders heim joints all round but plan on the evolution heim joints this time round. My basic premise of this post is to get feedback. Everything sound alright? I'm not doing anything that I'm going to regret? Is there something that I am missing that I just "have to have"? Let me know and I will post pics of the build so far, as soon as I figure it out. Thanks.



JWIV
 
#3 ·
Yes

Actually, I already have the old engine out and am making new mounts. Problem is, is that my truck is kinda an expedition vehicle. Before the swap, she weighed 8500lb. I a have a roof rack, lights, front and rear winches, aux fuel tank, a tool box in the back that rivals most mechanics shops, air compressor and tank, wather tank and pump and lots more. I need the 230 hp and 400 ft*lb that the 6BT offers, but yes, I did consider the 4BT. As of right now the 5.9L will fit, but it will be very tight. As soon as I can I will upload pics.

JWIV
 
#5 ·
Yup

Like I said. She's heavy. That's why I'm going with the 5.9L, I kinda need the torque. The old gasser did fine cause the xfer case had that 2.7 and I had 5.13's in the diffs, but with a doubler and all that torque and an NV with the low first gear my final should be about 150:1, and I'm still considering a klune-V which would give me a final of 607:1, but that's another $1300 and lengthens an already long drivetrain combo by another six inches and I would like to keep my wheelbase at it's current 115 inches without having a 6 in long rear driveshaft. But yes, she's heavy.

JWIV
 
#6 ·
I can see it fitting length wise...but I dont know about height. Have you measured from the bottom of the pan to the top of the rocker covers? I cant think of the height off the top of my head, but I know its tall (I have a '94 2500 w/ the 12V).

Also, you said you have a 5 linked front end...are you running coilovers?? Because going from a 500i-600ish lbs 360 to a 1100ish lbs. Cummins is gonna sag the shit out of your front end, imo. When I swapped the 360 out of my '94 and put the cummins in, it dropped the front end over an inch with the stock coils, which are getting switched out for diesel coils.
 
#7 ·
HOLY SHIT!

wow, that's a crazy build. the 6bt fits right in with the crazy part. I think a tweaked 4bt would be a better choice personally, but you seem to be convinced the 6bt is the ticket. The 4bt can be made to put out 440ft-lbs with out a whole ton of work, and it will weight about 350-400lbs less. not that that's really all that much :) but 8500-400? for the 5.9+1200 for the 6bt puts you at 9300lbs...+ heavier NV4500+203/205 doubler, so you are at 9500lbs+ talk about a monster, haha.

5.61x4x5.13 = 117:1 by the way...

why not an atlas? seems like it could hold up to the abuse?

you realize that 440X117 = 51480 ft-lbs of torque. that's a lot more than any part in your drive train can probably handle already. Will it hold up? possibly, if you are really really light on it.

I think the 6bt will fit in the durango with some work and a big shoehorn. I know the 4bt fits nicely...i have one in mine.

if you keep that 6bt stock it should hold up, i just think you could do it with the 4bt and be happy :)
 
#10 ·
Answer

To answer most of the above questions here it goes.

I got a really good price on the Cummins 6BT (think crazy good), and so have decided to go with that instead of a 4BT. They are a little easier to find.

Also thought about an atlas, but I already had a 205 sitting around and bought a 203 off ebay for $1. Really seriously for $1. GOt to love no reserve auctions.

Will the cummins fit height wise? Almost. I have had her in the engine bay and I may have to do a bit of cutting in order to let the valve cover fit, but the oil pan doesn't sit too far down. I am redoing the entire front suspension with new airbags and such so I can work around the oil pan, and also I know that my front end will be heavier which is one reason I am redoing all the suspension. (plus I've beat the hell out of it), so my new airbags are rated to 9000lb each. I think that should do it. (My old ones were rated at 3000lb each).

And yes, I know that in low range, that's alot of torque, but keep in mind that if I do go with a Klune and 203 205 doubler I will have a very wide range of gears to chose from. I am just saying that my final final final would be super low. Probably not that I would ever actually use it, but at times it might be cool to put my truck in low and step out and watch as my truck idled over stuff. I think it's mostly for the "haven't seen anyone else do it yet", although I'm sure someone has.

I think that answers most of the questions up to date. And as soon as I get the money I will subscribe so I can upload pics. (Really I am pretty broke right now, something to do with all these parts I'm buying).

Keep the questions and criticizims coming. I want to do this right the first time (well, I guess this is actually like the forth time but whatever). Thanks.

JWIV
 
#11 ·
seems like you have most everything figured out. this is definitely the first cummins durango that i've ever heard of

if you are low on funds and dont want to pay to show off your pics then signing up at photobucket is a good idea.... free and easy!
 
#13 · (Edited)
Check out post #3 : cummins dakota I know its a dakota but same basic design, i read about him in diesel world a while back and the swap looks nice and clean. I'd pm the guy and ask about some do's and don'ts.

What year is your motor out of?
From 89-98 you will have a 12v motor the biggest difference with in those years are the pumps. 89-93 you will have a bosch ve rotary style pump, which is easy to turn up for some extra beef on the cheap. But based on your 230 horse statement i'm assuming you have a later model. From 94 to the first part of 98 the P7100 pump was used and is a great unit and can be modded to add power and fuel economy. The beauty of the 12v is that no electronics are requires all you need is a battery to kick over your starter and cycle your grid heater. If you have a later model you either have a 24v or a commons rail motor which are far more electronically difficult from a swap perspective, but great motors nonetheless.

A few general things you can do to improve off-road performance on your cummins, is to install a 12-14cm exhaust housing on your turbo, thus will allow for quick spool up evening out your power band, keeping power surges at a minimum in order to avoid spinning your tires or loosing your line. Also a set of gauges is crucial especially if your running a 10K truck at slow speeds, you will want to monitor exhaust temps, and a boost gauge is good to alert you to any possible spike or loss of boost pressure, your turbo generally should never see more than 35lbs of boost and your exhaust shouldn't go over 1250*. Electric fans help keep the motor cool when climbing or crawling through rough terrain along with a big radiator, good innercooler and a large diameter exhaust system. If all else fails on the keeping things cool, a water/meth kit is also a good option.

On a less practical note if it's torque your after there are lots of options for bulking up the motor, mine, with bolt-ons and a .10 over gasket lays down 400hp and 825ft/lbs :smokin: all you need are injectors, pump work, big innercooler, big turbo, and a love of the skinny pedal and then you can really see some torque....gotta love diesel fuel + air = hp and torque

Good luck with the build, these cummins motors as awesome and built to last.
 
#18 ·
Oh and the motor is from a 2000 2500. I wanted one close to my year because I still wanted to keep all my interior stuff. I got a gauge cluster and wiring harness out of the smae truck and now everything is a bolt in to make all my electrical work. At least that's the plan. We will see once I get really into it. I did think about going with a 12V cause that would have been waaaaaaay easier, but then thought "where would the fun in that be?" and I got a screamin deal on this 24V. Really that's the only reason.

JWIV
 
#19 ·
you can post pics in your thread with photobucket. just use the IMG code:

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my hood is "Good Hood" hood made by keystone i think?

ok, so i just realized your that the other trans/transfer case thread is yours, want to expand a little? are you trying to run a stock durango transmission behind a 6bt or something like that?

the 24v is a very adventerous swap, i hope you can get it all to work ;) i guess you are using the 24v pcm/wiring and then just splicing in the pci bus to the durango? as well as the ignition/etc?

Good looking truck, seems like quite a project :smokin:
 
#20 ·
I have a friend with a 2000 Dodge Durango and they want to know if my old trans and xfer case (case I sure as hell don't need them anymore), will swap in, cause theirs crapped out on them. Anyway, I think they are relatively the same I was just wondering about the xfer case cause of the push button 4WD stuff. I told them they prolly don't want my trans and stuff, but I really don't need it and would love to help them out. I was jsut wondering if anyone else has done it.

And thanks for letting me know about them pics. I will post more soon.

Oh and the hood. I will probably end up needing one.

JWIV
 
#21 ·
Is that your ride height on those SXs? That would be sick and low. I like! I'm guessing it's with the air bags all the way down though. What are those, 38s?
 
#22 ·
Ride Height

Yes, ride height is at it's lowest in those pics. The airbags (are crap) are universal bags and have an eleven inch travel, and in the rear I am running some release bars, which turns into some sick articulation, I'll try to get some pics soon. As an update, I have got some money recently and have begun to buy parts. New bellhousing, 203, 205 adapter kit and getting ready to purchase a Klune-V. Also, if anyone is looking for a Dana 60 rear, with disc brakes, a 30 spline detroit locker, I am looking to sell. PM me. Pics will be up soon. BTW those are 39.5x15x17 TSL's on H2 hummer rims.

JWIV