Similiar issue on mine befor swapped 2 wires so that the TAC was powered up before the PCM. If the PCM does not see a signal from TAC when it (the PCM) powered up via te serial Data lines it will go into limp mode and no throttle response will occur.

Try clearing the CEL with your scanner while the engine is running and your throttle should start working again.

 

Intersting.........I tried this and it didn't work.......the codes kept re-appearing immediately after being erased. Tried disconnecting the batt and computer again and no success.

I moved the ECM around and set it down in a different spot and boom.......throttle works. I let it idle for a while and sure enough the code popped up again and the throttle stopped working.

So it sounds like I have a loose or bad wire somewhere........I just have no idea which wire it could be.

 

So I'm heading home with my wife and daughter n the heep, feeling oh so proud of myself for building a street/trail beast and hoping I get asked to take someone to the mall so I can show off a bit....

As I glance into the rear view mirror I see that I'm being tailgated by a billowing cloud of white-ish smoke. My first thought was that the radiator blew.

The steering was getting really tough and then i heard the tell-tale squeal of the power steering pump. Son of Bitch! Not again!! Another ruptured power steering line!!! This is the second time that this has happened. The damn line developed a tear/cut/rupture right at the end of the return nipple on the reservoir.

So WTF am I doing wrong here folks?
Stock 5.3L pump for an 03 Tahoe, stock location as well.
PSP Pulley is from a Ford E150 van (3/4" smaller than the oem pulley).

I did not install the OEM PSP cooler....did I screw up by not doing so?

 

The steering was getting really tough and then i heard the tell-tale squeal of the power steering pump. Son of Bitch! Not again!! Another ruptured power steering line!!! This is the second time that this has happened. The damn line developed a tear/cut/rupture right at the end of the return nipple on the reservoir.

So WTF am I doing wrong here folks?
Stock 5.3L pump for an 03 Tahoe, stock location as well.
PSP Pulley is from a Ford E150 van (3/4" smaller than the oem pulley).

I did not install the OEM PSP cooler....did I screw up by not doing so?

A guy at PSC told me if I used a smaller than stock pulley it would over drive the pump.

 

is the resevoir on the pump? is there a king or blockage in the line causing it to over pressurize?

 

Yes to the first part of your question, No to the second. The pump works fine and there has not been any loss of power steering prior to the return line taking a dump.

 

Here is the quickie write-up I did at LS1-Tech on my VDO pull-up circuit.

It works.

 

Ok, almost time to buy my radiator... Just don't want to spend more for my radiator than my motor... (Custom YJ radiator) Im down to a 24x16 or 24x19, with the 19" hitting the power steering box. Will a 24x16 keep a stock 5.3 cool?

 

Couple quick questions since this seems to be on topic.

- my tach is working but it seems to be off by a factor of 2 or more because I hit the rev limiter at 3,000rpms

- my speedo also seems to be off as well, I am running the howell harness, aa vss in the 4l60e tailhousing and autometer ultra lite gauges on a 2006 lq4 with a 2001 dbc computer.

- my fuel gauge (also autometer) is not working. I have a 97 tj tank with the stock 2 wire sending unit, one wire is hooked to the gauge the other is grounded, do ihave it backwards?

- what are you guys running for fuel vents, I have over 12' of 5/8" line going up down, over and around and I am still getting fuel in the vent line, I would like a simple bal valve and air vent set up but can't seem to find one that actually works.

 

Here ya go....

Couple quick questions since this seems to be on topic.

- my tach is working but it seems to be off by a factor of 2 or more because I hit the rev limiter at 3,000rpms
http://www.lt1swap.com/lsx_tach.htm

- my speedo also seems to be off as well, I am running the howell harness, aa vss in the 4l60e tailhousing and autometer ultra lite gauges on a 2006 lq4 with a 2001 dbc computer.
How is it wired? Hopefully the Speedo is connected to the Vehicle speed output from the PCM.
http://www.egauges.com/pdf/AutoMeter/765c.pdf

The speedometer is designed to operate with an electrical speed
sender. The speed senders signal impulse range must be between
500 and 400,000 pulses/mile. Any speed sender or electronic
module that meets the following two conditions can be used:
• Pulse rate generated proportional to vehicle speed.
• Output within the voltage ranges listed below:
4.0 to 16 V peak (Square Wave), 3 wire
2.0 to 120 V peak to peak (Sine Wave), 2 wire

- my fuel gauge (also autometer) is not working. I have a 97 tj tank with the stock 2 wire sending unit, one wire is hooked to the gauge the other is grounded, do ihave it backwards? You need the correct sender in the tank.
http://www.egauges.com/pdf/AutoMeter/421b.pdf

- what are you guys running for fuel vents, I have over 12' of 5/8" line going up down, over and around and I am still getting fuel in the vent line, I would like a simple bal valve and air vent set up but can't seem to find one that actually works.

 

tach is probably set for 8 cyl instead of 4 cyl.
tune is wrong for your tires/gear ratio and that will make the speedo off - that is if you are running the speedo through the PCM, are you?
Not sure about the fuel gauge... Gotta make sure it's the right ohmage for the sending unit. I could not find one that matched with Autometer, so I went with a programmable one. You might need to as well....
I use CJ rollover valves in my tank

 

tach is probably set for 8 cyl instead of 4 cyl.

I assume there's a switch on the back of the tach, my buddy actually installed it for me in an effort to help get it going for a big run we had a few weeks back, which is the case for all the gauges, so i'm not up to speed on all the gauges as it's one of the few things i did not install

tune is wrong for your tires/gear ratio and that will make the speedo off - that is if you are running the speedo through the PCM, are you?

Correct, i'm running the speedo through the PCM, the Howell harness had a wire labled "speedo" and i told the guys i was running 4.10's with a 4L60E auto, so maybe i can call Howell next week when i get back and see what they say about that one.

Not sure about the fuel gauge... Gotta make sure it's the right ohmage for the sending unit. I could not find one that matched with Autometer, so I went with a programmable one. You might need to as well...I use CJ rollover valves in my tank

Well i ordered the gauge from Summit Racing and to say the clown on the other end of the phone was more than useless would be a total understatement. I asked him about the gauge and how it would work with my TJ sending unit and he said, we offer a ford, chevy and chrysler so i will send you the chrysler version, and had no other info Any one have any tips on how to make this thing work?

As for the rollover valve, how does the cj one work in a TJ tank. I am actually running my return lines from the fuel regulator into the TJ vent lines, and then took the TJ filler neck and used the smaller vent line as a seperate vent line, and plugged off the vent in the filler neck.

 

Summit's customer service is great. Call them up and say it won't work on your setup, even though the salesman said it would, and I'm sure they will take it back and pay shipping as well.

The Jeep sending unit is:
With float in up position, resistance should be 20 ohms (+/- 5%).
With float in down position, resistance should be 270 ohms (+/- 5%).

If you look on the Autometer website, there are no gauges that follow those ohm's. That's why I went with a programmable unit. Just like their speedo's. I push the button with the tank empty; fill it and push the button again. Now it reads empty/full with no issues

If Howe set the gear and tire size correctly, the only other issue could be the VSS isn't set correctly in the tune.

 

What are you guys doing for Power Steering lines? Specifically to the factory steering box.

 

I reused my factory lines on my 88 YJ.

 

Converted the rig to run on E85.

Before:

After:

 

The factory one on my YJ worked without any issues other than bending it slightly at the bottom since that is where it was on the factory power steering pump.

 

4Cyl or 6Cyl YJ? They have different lines

 

4.2L 6 cylinder.

 

Speaking of hoses... What are people using for the fuel line run down the frame rail??? Hard line or Braided? Any good threads on the this? I tried searching and had some trouble finding info.

 

I had some Teflon lined braided SS hoses cut and -6 AN female flare fittings swaged on by Whistler Bearing. I connected the new lines to the fuel pump and rail using these:

 

I'm running the Russell ProClassic hose in the -6 AN for my fuel, -10 AN for oil and -08 AN for my transmission system. BillaVista also did a writeup on the plumbing bible using this hose. Very nice hose. I went with all AN fittings since I was building my system from scratch. Started it 2 weekends ago and the only thing to leak was the fuel check valve (Earl's Plumbing Product) and one AN fitting on the oil system and I believe I know why this one is leaking (My installation error).

 

TJ Guys,

What you used to connect your Power Steering Box to the GM Pump? Where I bought my motor they just clip off the hard lines.

-Anthony

 

5.3 Jeep Project

Here is my 5.3 Jeep Project. Fuel supply will be propane & I went with a TH350 and an Atlas 4.3.

 

Not sure what exactly what I'm missing here but I could use some ideas/input.

I had my PCM programmed with my tire size and gear ratio (35's & 4.88), programmed my VDO speedometer per the Mfg instructions and have been monitering the speedo and comparing it to my GPS. I've found that the speedo is off by 4 mph. GPs shows me moving that much slower than what's on the speedometer.

I set the speedo at 4000 pulse output from the PCM based on what I've read on this and other forums.

Am I missing something simple?

 

Let me see if I understand....

I set the speedo at 4000 pulse output from the PCM based on what I've read on this and other forums.

This has nothing to do with setting the tire/gear size to the tell the PCM how many pulses per mile you have driven. All this does is tell the speedo taht the PCM has saw a mile. Does that make sense? The PCM is telling the speedo that 4000 pulses = a mile. This way you can set the PCM to whatever gear/tire you want and not have to mess with the speedo, becuase it will always be 4000 pulses per mile.

if you have a programmable speedo - ie push the button, drive for 1 mile and then push the button again, you probably did not actually drive a mile between button pushes.

 

Do you have any streets nearby that have radar speed signs to compare what the speedo and the gps are showing? Gps units are not the end all be all.

 

The mobile speed moniters? Yeah....but I can never find one when I what to check my speed.

 

Yeah those would work too. But up here we have streets equipped with them on street light poles that proceed to tell you your speed and to slow down if need be. Lol.

 

I'm sure I could find one around here as well.

Let's assume that my GPS is correct and that the speedo is actually off by 4mph. What then?

 

Your PCM is setup for 35" tires. If your true tire diameter is less than 35" your speed will show as being faster than it is. If the true diameter is greater than 35" you will be going faster than your speedo shows.

Edit:

So I am assuming your tires aren't really 35". This can be because they are worn or the manufacture lied. Which is common.

 

Just trying to cover all the bases. Nothing worse than when someone says "My shit is broken! How do I fix it?"

Figured it out. Seems I need to to do a Manual Fine Tunning at this point.

Thanks for the replies folks.

Wally,
Did you get your gauge issues resolved?

 

Did any of you use a 2wd 4l60e transmission?

I need to know the specs of the reluctor ring that was on the output shaft. I was wondering if anyone still had it after swapping the long output shaft for the short output?

The specs I need are the inside diameter, outside diameter, thickness, and if it's pressed on, splined, or clamped on to the output shaft.

Thanks.

 

can someone who has done this in a tj tell me where they hooked ..
off/run/crank voltage (pin 75) on chevy blue connector
and
tcc brake switch / cruise control release switch signal (pin 33)
and
fuel pump control primary (pin 9) green plug

into the jeep wiring.

i read this... but was left even more confused.

www.rol.ac.psiweb.com/jeep/tj_00/00TJ-8-Wiring_Diagrams.pdf

 

can someone who has done this in a tj tell me where they hooked ..

TCC Brake Switch/CC Release gets hooked to the wire that powers the brake lights.

Fuel Pump Control goes to your fuel pump relay.


Not 100% sure about the other one, so I'll let someone else answer.


HTH,
Jake