timing chain guide in the oil pan? or someting fall into the cylinder through the spark plug hole.

 

noise

Did you replace the throwout bearing when you swapped trannies?

Jeff

 

Mine was doing the same thing and itturned out to be a spun bearing on the #2 cylinder. Tore it apart and fixed it then a week later it did it again :mad3: so now I am looking for a used 22re engine hope this helps.

Terry

 

Replaced the throwout bearing.

Maybe a spun bearing.

I do not think its a con rod bearing since the knock does not change as the spark plug wires are disconnected and its restarted.

Shipt23: Did you replace all the main bearings and size them with plastaguage (sp ? ) ?

 

Hey, LoneZuk. I think I may have the same problem as you. I am in the process of replacing my timing chain, guides, clutch, release bearing, pilot bearing, clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, flywheel, and all my gaskets and seals as well as my fan belts. Sounds like this didn't help the noise in your case. Does the sound go away when you brake? The sound I hear goes away when I put on the brakes. Maybe something in the axle and it just sounds like the bellhousing??

 

You might want to check the end float on the crankshaft.Sometimes the thrust washers on the center main crank journal wear out and fall out allowing the crank to walk back and forth. It can make a deep knocking sound that comes out of the bottom of the block. Timing chains sound more like an old Mercedes diesel when the get too loose.

 

[No message]

 

We have an internal engine problem.
Noticed a small Alum flake and the oil at he bottom of the pan has very fine metal particles that you cannot miss in the sun light.
Hope its only the lower bearings.

With over 220K on the engine it has has a good life.

Is it possable to replace only the lower bearings in a 22R and get another 25K miles out of it (like an old GM 350) ? That includes flushing the passages first.

Looking at something to last a few miles while get things together and find a low mileage block to rebuild.

What does experiencd say.

 

Still do not know what is causing the knock.

Pulled the connecting rod bearings and used plastigague (sp).

The bearings are all STD and the gap measured to be .0015 which is within specs.

All the rods and caps had been punched indicating the engine had been checked before.

So I am stumped again !!!

 

did you check the crank end play? Bad throust bearing would let the cank walc back and forth.
Look up in the bores and see if there is any indication of a wrist pin backing out.

 

I'd would put the truck on jack stands, start it up and run it through the gears, in 4-wheel and out of 4-wheel. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock. See if you can hear or see anything. You might need several pair of eyes & ears.
Gnarls.

 

Loosen the nuts on the valve cover and see if it goes away (seriously) Have you done any work on the top of the motor lately?

 

It maybe the thrust washers in the lower end.

I can move the crank front to back grabbing the downard lobes.

Using a screw driver I can pry forward/rear on a lobe/main and it will make a clunk.

The main bearings are in the .0015 range using plastigague.

Pulling main #3, the thrust washers could be worn, after this much work they should be replaced.
---------
The engine made the noise both before and after adjusting the valves.
I once pulled the cover, checking for anything that should not be in there, nothing found.
---------
The clunk was made with the G52 bell/Trans and also with the W56 bell/trans.
The flywheek was surfaced and the clutch was swapped.
Makes the clunk when started with no drive shafts.
Sounds like the noise is coming from the bell housing
---------
I will replace the thrust washers and try to move the crank again.

The mains have one scored area and maybe it could be cause by a walk.

Keep up the suggestions

 

Still Knocks

Replaced the Thrust Bearings, not I cannot move the crank by hand.
Fired it up and another knock, what is up here.
I pulled the valve cover to take another look, all ok.
Pulled the plugs for a compression test.
#1 128, #2 128, #3 123. #4 150

Before they were all in the same 125-128 range, not now.

When testing #4 it would make a loud bang and blow the hand held gage off.
I used one that threaded into the spark plug hole for the 150 reading.


What should the readings be for a high mileage 22R ?

What would cause the bang (knock) with the compression tester on ?

 

Still Knocks

Replaced the Thrust Bearings, not I cannot move the crank by hand.
Fired it up and another knock, what is up here.
I pulled the valve cover to take another look, all ok.
Pulled the plugs for a compression test.
#1 128, #2 128, #3 123. #4 150

Before they were all in the same 125-128 range, not now.

When testing #4 it would make a loud bang and blow the hand held gage off.
I used one that threaded into the spark plug hole for the 150 reading.


What should the readings be for a high mileage 22R ?

What would cause the bang (knock) with the compression tester on ?

128 is concidered rebuild time on the 86re but they are a little higher compression. Did you prop open the butterflies in the carb? If you don't do that it restricts air flow into the engine and will give you low compression as a result.

I would go buy the screw in tester. You can pull the shrader valve and hook a air line to it and pressurize the cylinder and see where your loosing compression from here you hear the air leaking out. Have to remove the shrader valve in the hose if you do that test.

Did you turn the motor over by hand and watch the rocker arms and inspect tha cam lobes? With that one cylinder hitting so high compaired to the others it sounds like the exhaust valve is not opening.

 

For the compression test, the carb carb was not blocked open.

A screw in compression tester was used on #4 due to what had happened on it with a standard tester.

The valve cover was removed before the compression was tested to verify that there were no broken parts.

It looked to me like all the valves were being pushed down, but maybe it did not open.

I will test the compression again to see what is taking place.

Suggestions, I am really stumped as what could case the compression to increase on one bore, it used to be in the 128 raange.

 

a small bit of oil on the rings will cause the compression to go up-- especally if the rings are worn a bit- (a good check for worn rings- ---compression check- pour a small bit of oil in the cylinder-- re test-- compression up =worn rings)

 

With a small amount of oil #1 and #2 went to 150.
#4 stayed at 150.
#3 stayed the same, less around 123.

Something must be wrong with #3 also #4 should have changed.

Do you think the 22R is lost cause ? odo has 226 on it.

 

Not Sure How Bad The Knock Is But I Know That My Truck Has 362k (not Sure If Or When Rebuilt) And It Has Had A Knock Type Noise. People Have Asked Me If I Was Running A Diesel. I Have Not Been Far Into The Engine Like You But I Have Heard Alot Of Older/higher Mileage Yota's Making This Type Of Noise. My Truck Runs Fine It's Just Sounds Like Hell. At Times Mine Will Sound Like A Clean Strong Running Engine, But Most Of The Time It's Like A Diesel. So Maybe What I Am Trying To Say Is Drive It Till It Quits And Then You Will Know Exactly What The Failure Was So You Can Quit Putting Money Into This Engine That Is Still Knocking. Take It For What It's Worth But That Is What I Am Doing With Mine And It Won't Die!

 

knock'in

My engine clangs pretty loud, much like you are describing... I assure you tho that on my 26k mile EB special its only the LCE header exaust leak. That and some pinging due to the cam being advanced/timing advanced. Have you tried lowering your timing advance a bit. That and changing out the exhaust manifold gasket would be some inexpensive things to try.

I think you are just looking at a bit of carbon buildup on that no4 cyl. Try some BG44K to clean it up.

Josh

 

well when my family went to buy our Yukon we got a hell of a deal on it b/c there was a slight knocking/ticking... lol, we handed the dood there money turned off the yukon we just bought, pulled off the sparkplug wire and tightend the sparkplug down.. wa la sound was gone. teh dood was a lil pissed. i know that you've done compression tests so your plugs should be tight not likely but just in case... good luck and hope ya figure it out

 

Why not run it until it goes, and be looking for a replacement engine in the mean time?

 

My Point Excactly

 

I have an 88 pick-up with a 22re and it is doing the same thing. I've also done everything that you have done. In my truck, the knocking seems to go away at higher rpms. It also has excessive crank case pressure, but they are probably not related. If you get it figured out, please post the remedy. I've decided to just drive my truck till it blows to bits, but I would still like to know.

 

Since the knock is so hard to find, a complete breakdown may not show anything. I would hate to rebuild the lower end, just to have it knock again.

Since others also have a strange knock, there must be something in common, mabe with high mikeage 22R engines. Mine is an 85 4x4 with 226,100 on the ODO