I kinda did the same thing to a customers rig and we made it out to be 108" I think. It worked out really well.

 

I would say for 35" tires keep the WB around stock.Maybee add a couple inches.This will keep your breakover angle lower since you don't need such a high lift for the 35"s.Also won't need to move the tank which will keep the inside open for the family.

 

When I had 35s and stock spring SOA I felt that the stock wheelbase was a wee bit too short on really steep climbs. I think that the 4" you gain with waggy springs would be well worth it, and wouldn't look goofy then somthing like XJ springs in the rear with a big cut with little tires.

Just be prepared to run into some steering issues when you go Waggies up front.

 

Just be prepared to run into some steering issues when you go Waggies up front.

Please explain??

 

Please explain??

Well, if you extend your wheelbase 2" up front you might run into steering issues as far as the drag link pitman arm geometry. There's lots of variables involved as far as what axles, what steering arms, what pitman arm, what spings, what lift, etc. So that's why I said you MIGHT run into issues.

Some people have to move the box forward, or tilt the box at a different angle, etc. With my 4" waggy lift spring main leaf and stock every other spring pack, on a HP D60 with Sky arms; I had to run a stock pitman arm from a late model F150 reclocked for it to work decent. I still have some bugs to work out because the bolt that holds the heim on the pitman arm to drag link rubs against my tie rod sometimes. But it's worked okay for a year now.

 

With that said I would measure/eyeball how far you can move the front forward and see if you have the 2" for the waggys, then maybe go with the XJs (or waggys to keep the tank in the stock location ) in the rear as said before. Good flex in the rear, stability in the front and the added wheelbase you're looking for.

I moved my front axle forward until I was about 1/4" of hitting the pitman arm at the closest point during the cycle. A little bit of planning and a little bit of luck too, works great. Stock rear YJ's all around, probably going to throw some waggys or XJs in the rear this winter for more wheelbase.

Good luck

 

Thanks for the replies. I was aware of issue with the front steering. The plan is a waggy 44 front.

I wanted to stay at 2" of rear stretch hoping to be able to shift the gas tank up and back just a bit. I have read of others moving the crossmember and getting this much out of it. A fuel cell is out of the question.

Unfortunately, it does not seem that any waggy type spring has the low amount of lift I want. Even a JC WHitney stock type spring seems like it will be more than a built stock pack in front.

Hmmm...maybe I will do some more reading about XJ springs for the rear. Too long at first, but I need to see where I would end up if I moved the fixed hanger and used the stock shackle location. Maybe too much lift again?

Anyway, I have the wrap bar sittin in a box, so that part is easy. After fabbing nearly every part of that Scout, I was looking forward to just bolting on some stuff for a change. It is not looking like that will be the case unless I spend the money for Alcans, etc. Not too likely.

EDIT: Well, after some reading, it does not look like keeping an XJ spring at the stock shackle hanger location and moving the fixed hanger would net me any change at all. Sounds like that would be a nice spring to build from...nice and long.

The way the stock rear shackle mount pierces the frame...is there room in the frame to move that back a couple of inches and still keep it in the frame? I really don't want the extra lift from running it under the frame. I guess I will have to peek under a YJ and see what is in the way.

 

Well, if you extend your wheelbase 2" up front you might run into steering issues as far as the drag link pitman arm geometry. There's lots of variables involved as far as what axles, what steering arms, what pitman arm, what spings, what lift, etc. So that's why I said you MIGHT run into issues.

Some people have to move the box forward, or tilt the box at a different angle, etc. With my 4" waggy lift spring main leaf and stock every other spring pack, on a HP D60 with Sky arms; I had to run a stock pitman arm from a late model F150 reclocked for it to work decent. I still have some bugs to work out because the bolt that holds the heim on the pitman arm to drag link rubs against my tie rod sometimes. But it's worked okay for a year now.

Thank you. Now I understand.

 

I have a 98 inch WB w/ 36's from waggy's in the back and a shackle reversal in the front. With my spring over and leaf packs (probably ~8 inches lift), I am a little taller than I would like to be with that wheelbase.

But I would bet with less lift and some 35's, somewhere around 98 inches would be a good starting point, all without having to do lots of suspension modifications.

 

35's, 96-98" wb IMHO.

i ran 36's with 96" for a couple of years it was goo. Went to 37's and 100" and I am much more pleased. But I run a flat belly as well, to help the breakover angle.

 

I'm at 98" with 35's and love it.

I gained my wheel base in front by moving the axle forward 1.25" with a shackle reversal, and then offsetting the axle on the springs an additional .75". Using a shackle reversal, I have had no steering issues, as the axle moves back just enough upon compression for the pitman arm to clear the tie rod.

2" was also gained in the rear by moving the frame mounts. I did not move the shackle mount however, instead I simply used longer shackles for an excellent angle (IMHO). Interference with the gas tank has been a bit on an issue though... Currently, I have "massaged" the gas tank to gain some clearance, but I really don't have as much as I would like.

BTW, I'm SUA with 4.5" RE's and a D30/8.8

-Jordan

 

What about axles for a 35" equipped yj? Im trying to workout a great DD/Weekend rig on 35's. It sounds like the waggy springs would give me about the right WB length or even a SRS in the front for a little bit of length. But what about the axles? What is a good width for 35's?

 

stock width axles are fine for 35's. a D44 for 8.8 in the rear will hold up great to 35's. The d30 with alloys or a waggy D44 front is good too. I have beat my waggy D44 for years with no issues.

 

You will of couse want to drop the D35 for something stronger.

Not to hyjack the thread but has anyone ever cut and lengthened the body/frame? I would like a longer WB on my SOA CJ on 35"s and having more storage space inside would be a bonus. Something like a bobbed scrambler after everything is done.

 

What about axles for a 35" equipped yj? Im trying to workout a great DD/Weekend rig on 35's. It sounds like the waggy springs would give me about the right WB length or even a SRS in the front for a little bit of length. But what about the axles? What is a good width for 35's?

I plan on running a waggy 44 front and....at the moment at least...an Izusu corp (old style) 12 bolt rear. Seems like they are pretty darn tough and come in the right width and lug pattern (6 on 5.5), 4.56 gears and an ARB is available. A Tacoma rear axle is also in the running. All of these are a couple inches from stock one way or the other.

I really debated the D30/D44 issue and it was pretty easy to make the D30 strong enough for 35s, but some stuff like ball joints, small brakes, etc, tipped the scales. $$$ for brake upgrades, etc, can really add up over the cost of the 44. In the end, the only good reason to keep it and upgrade the 30, is it is already in there and it makes it easy to put in an 8.8 and be done with it.

Oh, it looks like I decided on the JC WHitney 7 leaf Waggys. It will get me the 98" I wanted and keep me from cutting and welding more than I have to. Not earthshaking news, but I was considering many options and all the others that were cheaper would take more time than it was probably worth for the $$ savings. It may be a bit more lift than I really need, but I think it will work out OK.

Thanks for all the input and suggestions.

 

an IFS width Toyota axle is a perfect combo for 35's and a waggy D44 front. Toy rears are stout light, shaveable and close to the right width. Disk swaps are easy and parts are affordable. Just truss the housing.

 

shoot the 2wd toy rears are even 5x4.5 if you stick with the d30 up front.

 

an IFS width Toyota axle is a perfect combo for 35's and a waggy D44 front. Toy rears are stout light, shaveable and close to the right width. Disk swaps are easy and parts are affordable. Just truss the housing.

Yeah. That may be what I end up with. The Toy axle certainly has more aftermarket support and should be pretty cheap to buy. The Isuzu axle has me interested. Guys don't seem to break them at all with that size tire, they come with the right gears ($$ savings), drop out third, but gears are limited and the ARB is about it but that is a good choice anyway. I do worry that if I ever break it, that spare parts (axle shafts, etc) would be way easier to find for a Toy in the middle of some obscure place. Of course, I have to break it first and I wheel pretty light as a rule.

Oh, the Isuzu 12 bolt is disc, I believe. Still researching it.

 

I extended my front by 1" when I did SOA using the MORE spring perches. They have a 1" offset and it was easy to do. Tried the rear too but the diff was to close to my gas tank.

zman

 

You will of couse want to drop the D35 for something stronger.

Not to hyjack the thread but has anyone ever cut and lengthened the body/frame? I would like a longer WB on my SOA CJ on 35"s and having more storage space inside would be a bonus. Something like a bobbed scrambler after everything is done.

That was my plan originally. 1 kid, 1 big dog. Coming from a Scout, I am going to lose a ton of room. The frame is really easy to do, but the body....not as easy. Then you need to make a top fit (if you use one, I do). All of this can be done, but really, how much can you gain? I would not want to be over say, 104-105" WB with 35s, so that adds 10 inches inside the body. That is a lot of work for 10" more space.

It seems that most of the guys that have done this have CJ5s. At least you could stretch it to a CJ6 length and use the tops for those, the YJ was a bit harder. I spoke to Bestop.

I wanted to duplicate the dimensions of the new Unlimited TJ so I could use the tops, etc, but they also stretch them behind the rear wheel, not just in the middle. Too much work for me.

 

That's my problem as well. Its going to cost a crap load of $$ for a little gain. But the end result is different than everyone else, would have increased interior storage/confort for the rear passengers, etc. I use my top in the winter so I thought about selling my hard top/doors, picking up a soft top and have a local place insert a panel to make it fit.

 

We think alike. I was going to get license plates that read YJ6. It would have been unique and I liked that. I already had a place that could stretch the soft top and Bestop was going to send me some fabric to do it.

I figured I could either move the rear seat forward and have more room behind the seat or have the room between the seats, etc. Anyway, it does do some neat things. Longer d-shaft, etc. I was actually going to look into getting a junkyard to cut off the back of a wrecked jeep and sell me the midsection to splice in.

Anyway, I don't have that much energy after the last 4 year project build. I am naming this Jeep project 'Bolt-On'. More wheelin', less fabbin'. At least I am trying not to let project creep get me this time.

 

I had the licence plate idea of "CJ-7.5"

I thought I would move the rear seat forward a little and split the difference for passenger/cargo. I also thought about buying a old tub for the filler panels. All this is a pip dream after I get bigger axles, cage, etc.

 

I plan on running a waggy 44 front and....at the moment at least...an Izusu corp (old style) 12 bolt rear. Seems like they are pretty darn tough and come in the right width and lug pattern (6 on 5.5), 4.56 gears and an ARB is available. A Tacoma rear axle is also in the running. All of these are a couple inches from stock one way or the other.

I really debated the D30/D44 issue and it was pretty easy to make the D30 strong enough for 35s, but some stuff like ball joints, small brakes, etc, tipped the scales. $$$ for brake upgrades, etc, can really add up over the cost of the 44. In the end, the only good reason to keep it and upgrade the 30, is it is already in there and it makes it easy to put in an 8.8 and be done with it.

Oh, it looks like I decided on the JC WHitney 7 leaf Waggys. It will get me the 98" I wanted and keep me from cutting and welding more than I have to. Not earthshaking news, but I was considering many options and all the others that were cheaper would take more time than it was probably worth for the $$ savings. It may be a bit more lift than I really need, but I think it will work out OK.

Thanks for all the input and suggestions.

How much work is involved to use Waggy springs and incorporate a shackle reversal up front for 4-5" added wheelbase? How much would XJ springs f/r add to the wheelbase and how much work would it take? You will probably have to inboard your gas tank though right? Just wondering.
I had 3 YJs and now a 91' XJ on 37" MTRs and hp44/9" full width axles. Close to 100" WB is ideal for most stuff, you can climb the steep stuff and still run the hard tight trails.

Troy