What is your axle code?
What kind of wheeling do you mainly do?

With a 3" lift, you would be able to fit 35" tires before having to clearance your fenders. I'm running 31x10.5-15 with nothing more than reindexed torsion bars.
If you still have the stock 14" wheels, you may want to look at going to 15" or 16". I would suggest not going larger than 35x12 either way.

 

35s won't fit without major trimming. 33s will fit with minor trimming.

 

IFS lifts are a waste of money.

 

Would I not gain even a little bit with a lift kit or are IFS really that worthless to lift?

 

They're not. Anything that gets you some more clearance on the trail is a good thing. This dude just apparently has the time and money to do a SAS swap, or builds jeeps.

If you want my opinion and you just want to get that thing off the ground a bit on the cheap check this out;

Nissan Hardbody Suspension Lift

That's what I'm going to be "wasting" my money on until I have the time, patience, and money to do the SAS swap.

I run 31x10.50's on my HB fine with no lift right now. I just want some more frame clearance. Living in Colorado and wheeling the rocky mountains all the time you gotta get some frame clearance I have a king cab too so my wheelbase is even longer. Lots of nasty crap to tear apart the underneath of a stock height vehicle. Lifting a vehicle to get some belly room is never a waste of money. If you're not mechanically inclined enough and without resources to do a Solid Axle Swap (SAS) under your hardbody 3 inches is the most you'll be able to achieve on the IFS. If you're wanting to go bigger buy a jeep or an old solid front axle toyota hilux or something. These are sweet trucks but the IFS holds them back from being as capable as they could be. Thus the SAS swaps.. This place is kinda the hub for the SAS swap D21/D22 stuff. Check out infamous Nissan, Hardbody Forum (D21) - Infamous Nissan - Hardbody / Frontier Forums there's a lot more activity on the forum, it's hardbody specific, and while most of the dudes on there are lowering their rigs there's a few of us that go the opposite way and there's a plethora of knowledge to be found on the forum.

Hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the input. I would love to do a SAS in the future but right now I want this to be a budget build. I have already done quite a bit of work to this truck (full engine rebuild and transmission) so now that is finally running great I just want to get a little more clearance on a budget so the rough country lift might be my ticket. Any good ideas on a cheap rim and tire set up?

 

I've done the IFS lift thing, so I know it is a waste and I try to keep people away from doing it so they don't waste money and time like I did.

The problem with those upper control arm lifts is they put your suspension at a steep angle. This leads to cvs, tierods, centerlink, idler arm, and ball joints wearing out and failing prematurely. To achieve this lift, you crank down on your torsion bars, which causes them to wear out quickly also. You will never be able to keep an alignment with an IFS lift on a D/WD21.

If you want greater clearance. Cut the fenders and put a set of 32's or 33's on and carry spare tie-rod ends.

Save the money from that lift, and save towards other mods, such as armor, upgraded IFS steering, and a rear locker.

Or do a budget SAS, maximum bang for your buck.

 

Budget SAS?

Tell us more. :smokin:

I just can't figure what axle to damn use up front. Apparently a Toyota is too narrow, jeep shit is too wide, I don't feel like remedying these issues with a funky set of differently offset wheels or wheel spacers. What fits? The budget I have in mind is somewhere around 800 dollars cause I figure between the RC lift @ 340, CAB's, TRE's, ball joints, idler arm brace, CV's and brakes ought to land me between 750-1000 dollars somewhere depending on where I can source the parts.

So if I could just start hacking sh!t, collecting parts and cleaning up/prepping my frame....

 

I have to agree with board. The lift for this suspension doesn't give you more travel, It only allows you to align it higher in the same range of movement. So if the tires rub without the lift, they're still going to rub. The steering is a must lift or not with bigger and wheeling. There's a lot you can do to make the rear flex. And the bigger the tire the more gearing is going to be important.

So I'd say steering first, then tires and or armor.

 

Jimmy....you need to be a supporting vendor to pimp your crap here....