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Larsson's Willys build from Sweden

55K views 213 replies 24 participants last post by  vykkagur  
#1 · (Edited)
Larsson's Willys/Volvo Felt build from Sweden

Hello

My name is Marcus I'm 27 years old and I'm from Sweden.
This is my first offroad build :)

Excuse my english :p

I have always wanted to have a Willy, but i didn't want to "kill" a healthy car so when i found some parts for sale I got the idea to build it on some other frame:)

So this is what I came up with, The frame and axels from a Volvo Felt a car used by the Swedish army in the 60's. They were many models off the cars for different assignments.
My car a -65 started the life as a fullbody. Looking something like this:
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It has the Volvo B18 engine a manual M40 gearbox and dana 44 axels.

This is the frame I'm building on the body is stripped off. The engine has been replaced with a Volvo B23a and the manual gearbox is history. Now it's a BW55 automatic :) It stands on the orginal Felt 34,5" wheels.
(The tractor in the background Volvo BM650 is also from the Swedish army :) )
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It has been lifted about 4" :smokin:

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So this is the start off my build :)




/Marcus
 
#2 · (Edited)
Some bodyparts :D

The grill is new but the fender and hood is original parts :)
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Maybe someone here could help me figure out which year my tub is from ?
It have been streetched by a previus owner.
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The floor have been replaced and is flat due a have a flat frame.
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The X marks were it have been stretched about 8" I'm going to shorten it to make it look original again.
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#3 ·
Cool. I love seeing different stuff from different places.

The tubs looks like it was CJ2A tub, not the ? I don't think its a CJ3A since it has the slot above the steering column for the column shifter rod.
 
#7 ·
Ok :) I'm looking for a war grill for it :D

cool!

You MAY want to think about keeping the stretch, or part of it anyway. sitting in a stock length flat fender is difficult without pushing the seat back and cutting into the fender well. 4" stretch might be perfect seating distance. I think that's about how far my seat sits now, about 4" farther back (just guessing, I don't know for sure)
I might keep a little of the streetch, but it's going to be shorter I don't like how it looks now :)

Nice!

I bow to your ingenuity :)
Shame those aren't portal axles as from a Laplander, still interesting though.
Are they lockable as well? I think not...?
Yeah I was looking at som portals but my budget didn't allow it :p

I don't know what your wheelbase is currently, but I'd consider leaving the body long and 'channeling' or raising the middle portion of the floor ~4" so the tub can sit down over the frame (so that the 'bed' would sit on the frame and you would have minimal gaps under the front inner fenders). I think it would look a lot better this way. With the long tub, you could put the seats directly on the (raised) floor and not be too cramped I would imagine.

The wheelbase of the Felt is 82 inches and I belive that the wheelbase of a willys is between 75 and 80 inches. If I would lower the tub so the gap under the fenders would be smaller. The frame and gearbox would be right were i will have my feet :( The drawback with a straight frame, but it will look good in the end whit some big tires to fill out the wells :)
 
#4 · (Edited)
cool!

You MAY want to think about keeping the stretch, or part of it anyway. sitting in a stock length flat fender is difficult without pushing the seat back and cutting into the fender well. 4" stretch might be perfect seating distance. I think that's about how far my seat sits now, about 4" farther back (just guessing, I don't know for sure)
 
#6 ·
I don't know what your wheelbase is currently, but I'd consider leaving the body long and 'channeling' or raising the middle portion of the floor ~4" so the tub can sit down over the frame (so that the 'bed' would sit on the frame and you would have minimal gaps under the front inner fenders). I think it would look a lot better this way. With the long tub, you could put the seats directly on the (raised) floor and not be too cramped I would imagine.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Here is the AW71 gearbox that I was about to use but it was so long so I changed it for the BW55.
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The adapter so that the automatic would fit together with the transfer box.
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Power steering from a Volvo 164
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The BW55
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About to remove the transfer box
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The transfer box :)
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The engine and the old gearbox is going to be removed soon
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#12 ·
This frame looks solid and strong, we had many of them years back here in iceland, what are your engine plans, keep the volvo or put v6 or v8 in it, those red block volvos engines are the best ever build, I got one driven 220.000 miles. (350000km) and no oil burn. Ilike your project, keep posting. og venlig hylse.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I'm glad that you like the project :)
Yeah it's a very strong frame and this one is in very good condition.
I have replaced the original B18 engine (64hp) with a B23a (112hp).


Some more pictures.
I have started to disassemble the transfer box
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A little further in the disassembly. Looking through all the gears and bearings so everything is in good condition.
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Some parts that's going to be cleaned and painted
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Clean and ready for paint
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#28 ·
This is a way cool project, really digging how different it is from the usual. Right on.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Glad you like it :)

More parts that's is going to be cleaned / sandblasted
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Going to reinforce the diff casing
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Some parts painted :)
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I have cut away the engine mounts. Have to move them further back because of my shorter gearbox
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transfer box mount painted
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Front axel ready for paint
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#32 ·
Nice build :) You've got a excellent frame and stout drive train that is going to take you in Jeepin' style to anywhere you want to go for sure!

Enjoy seeing the progress and keep going!!!
 
#33 · (Edited)
Thank you : )

The engine and transmission have found it's way back in the frame :)
Have made som new engine mounts
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I have cut my tub in half so I can start measure how much of it I can cut away, should be about 4"
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Starting to fix some old holes in the dash
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Looking a little better :)
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