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New Buggy Build

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#1 ·
First some backround info. There are really a ton of other reasons I finally decided to start over. The front runners were to see what I could do fabrication wise. Back in 04 when I built my first from scratch chassis I owned a tube bender, welder and grinder. Original build thread. I took a few ribbings for some of my gussets and brackets but considering the tools at hand they did the job. The old 3 seater buggy was designed around a 4 cylinder engine and Toyota drive train which I quickly realized was a mistake. Our wheeling style was rapidly evolving with us tackling obstacles that were impossible to crawl; the writing on the wall said bigger axles were in my future. The buggy was eventually tore down and 1 ton axles replaced the old Toyota running gear. People joked the weak link in my drive train was now the crankshaft in my 1.6l power plant, I thought they were joking till I threw a rod while wheeling down in Mammoth Az.

Once again the chassis was tore down and modified, this time to fit a supercharged 3.8l, an automatic transmission and a Dana 300 transfer case. After that it was on! I soon realized just how much an advantage horsepower and an automatic was when shooting waterfalls.

Fast forward another year or so and with the talk of adding another kid to the family I started in on transforming the buggy into a 4 seater. The back half was cut completely off and the rear suspension reconfigured to fit a 36” bench seat. The second kid never materialized but the utility of the extra seat was much appreciated. The chassis was approaching 5 years old at this point. Somewhere along the way I completely destroyed the rear 60 by breaking it into 3 pieces after rolling off a waterfall. The front axle wasn’t far behind, weakened by being shaved it started to leak more and more. I was at the point of spending a lot of time and money to refurb the old rig.

Here's what pushed the build new option to the top of the pile: I had the axles and a drive train I liked so the new chassis could be built around those components. More importantly I had 5 years of wheeling experience in the same basic chassis. Armed with that knowledge I still came up with a wish list of things I wanted to change. Every option on my list would required major chassis revisions, the new chassis made even more sense.

Going back to 3 seats but more storage room.

Designed for a two piece driveshaft up front (no carrier bearing). Hoping to actually be able to use 4 high.

Belly is 3" higher than the last chassis despite the roof being an inch lower (The old Toyota 5 speed was TALL!).

Interior needs to be bigger, especially on the passenger side where the huge intake is practically in the passengers lap.

Passenger compartment will have a full floor (no open area under the seats)

Lower hood line for better front visibility.

More suspension up travel

Here's 5 years of tinkering compressed into 2 pictures.
 

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#3 ·
Like my first Samurai (back in 02), this project has been designed in Solidworks. If you know me you know I like to have a plan. I took my original buggy solid model and tweaked it to fit what I wanted. What you see is the eventual goal.

Technically I started on this over a year ago. Scored 200 feet of 1.5 x .120 wall DOM from work for under $100. I nicknamed this the "Scrap Metal" buggy because close to 90 % of what I have into it was purchased as scrap by the pound. Even the little chassis fixture was made with scrap steel tubing.
 

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#6 · (Edited)
Almost forgot, old vs. new.

Drivetrain will be the same S/C 3.8l/TH904/D300, Full width 60 front, 14 bolt rear, 5.13's, ARB/Spool. The old rig was 3800lbs, would like to make this new rig the same or less.

I also built a cart for the motor so I could slide it around inside the framerails. It has been moved up, back and side to side many times in the build :D Initially I went with a front mounted radiator but after a while the rear mounted just made more sense since it would let me move the engine further forward giving more room in the passenger cabin, allow for a much lower hood line, make shock mounting easier, allow better engine access and move the fans behind us so they are not blowing hot air into the passenger compartment.
 

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#7 ·
So I don't think I have seen a 3 seater done where the 3rd seat sits up close between the two fronts utilizing the space between the fronts for leg room. That is my plan and I am allowing enough room to up the seat one size from preemie to Pre-Teen. My 5 year old is nearly big enough to sit in the Preemie and utilize the 4 point harness. Up till now I had to strap a car seat and later a booster seat to the existing bench or front bucket when he rode along. I have extended the rear tubing twice, the first time was an educated guess at how much overhang I would need to cover the rear seat which turned out to not be quite enough. FWIW I was going for an extended cab pickup look.
 

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#27 · (Edited)
I was stoked when I found Ed's build a while back, it convinced me to go with a rear mounted radiator. I tried to maintain a pickup look but once I got to the seating with the radiator and other stuff in place there was no keeping a large bed. The storage basket is what was left of the bed but it is still big enough that I can haul some firewood.

For those interested, here are the 4 link numbers I am designing around. I didn't have much wiggle room up front (bottom picture), what this shows is pretty much what fits. Things were much more open out back (top picture) but I ended up going with pretty much the same numbers I had last time. The wheelbase will be the same as the 4 seater (112") and the new one will be smaller in only a few key dimensions. The biggest is a 3" higher belly while lowering the roof 1" mostly due to designing around the automatic vs. a Toyota 5 speed. The outside will also be roughly a half inch narrower despite the cab growing almost 2" internally. This was accomplished by not having built in nerf bars in the chassis like the old one.
 

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#9 ·
good thought on the 3rd seat and I almost tried the same thing with mine, but one thing stopped me.............. leg room.

are you looking ahead enough that an adult can use it? not sure how you plan to configure your shifters, but that might be an issue. an adult would not have enough leg room in mine once I get the new trans shifter installed (right behind the atlas shifters, but not quite between the seats)
 
#12 · (Edited)
During this time period I still had the old chassis so I used it to take some of the measurements for the seats. I was also slowly tearing it down and found all sorts of stuff on their last legs from cracked exhaust manifolds, a 1350 CV ready to blow apart and a chipped front R&P. Pretty sure the R&P chipped due to the shaved axle flexing, when I went to pull the ARB out the bottom shave plate popped clean off all around the welds.

This time around I elected to make the interior flooring removable so the transfer case or transmission can come up thru the floor. My last rig had everything coming out thru the belly but you still had to take the interior apart so the bellhousing would clear the floors. Not having a carrier bearing front driveshaft also means the frontlower crossmember can't be far enough forward to get the transmission out thru the bottom.

Since I am modeling some of the larger assemblies in the buggy I am going to fully leverage the CAD time and have the brackets waterjet by a local place. Tried a laser cutter around the corner but they were way too flaky and hadn't even started my first batch of parts after 3 weeks. The waterjet place so far is running a consistent 4-5 day lead time which works for me.
 

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#13 ·
Once the base of the interior was done I made sure I could get my rear links where I wanted them. I had no complaints with the rear suspension on the last rig so I utilized pretty much the same 4 link numbers. Putting all new 7/8 rod ends in. Uppers will be 1.50 x .120 wall DOM from my scrap tubing. The lower link mount bracket is a modified Ballistic Fab bracket, it's narrowed for the 2" spacing of my rod end/misalignment combo and then shortened height wise so the bottom sits flush with the crossmember. Uppers will be double shear eventually.
 

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#14 ·
Exhaust routing was next. The stock L67 dumps all 6 cylinders to the passenger side which made the passenger side really hot in the last buggy. I was also looking at a potential interference trying to get the stock exhaust manifold flange down and below the frame rails. I took a chance and bought osme V6 Camaro headers which worked out better than I could have hoped for. Running 2.5" tubing back to the crossover, will neck down to 2.25 after the mufflers. I used V-band clamps on the headers. Saved some money and went with .99 cent flanges for the cross pipe.
 

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#15 · (Edited)
By this time I commited to a rear mounted radiator. The old modified thermostat neck was modified yet again to get the coolant line pointing in the right direction. I utilized some thin wall steel tubing for most of the lines but where I needed a sharp bend I had to use some .120 tubing since the thinner stuff rippled pretty badly on any angles greater than 20 degrees. The other line runs under the driver seat and behind the pedals.
 

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#16 ·
The front axle utilizes a bunch of brackets I had waterjet based on my model. Re-using my old POS double ended ram after sending it back to get refreshed (new seals, grooves added to the body and a fresh coat of powder).
 

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#17 ·
The front axle/links came together pretty easily (although the pictures above span several weeks). Ended up welding thin plates to the backside of the truss bracketry to keep dirt out of them. Upper link mounts at the chassis were also waterjet and dropped right in. The upper links interfered with the old motor mounts by about an 1/8th an inch so new ones were made to allow some extra clearance room. FWIW all my brackets are .1875 thick with .25" thick weld washers added to both tabs around the bolt hole (RuffStuff makes the weld washers).
 

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#22 · (Edited)
I see you've come full circle and adopted the "single shear upper link mount"

:flipoff2:
It is all the rage with the cool kids :laughing: Besides, the next big thing is single shear lowers....

So that's almost caught up with where it sits today. Here's some misc. details like the rear storage backet (fuel cell will go under it), beefed up nerf bars, removeable engine cage, and steering columm.
 

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#21 · (Edited)
I put in the firewall earlier so I could work around it and not the other way around. Went from carboard to metal in a few weeks. I am using a plasma cutter to cut the stuff and a $69 brake to do the bending. Most of this stuff is thin steel so I can heliarc weld nuts to the panels (everything will bolt in). I will use aluminum for some stuff down the road. The dash will be left open on the passenger side. After watching my kid get in and out during seat testing I realized the extra space was very usefull.

I also tried to get the shifter in the dash for even more rear seat legroom but the cable routing proved impossible. It's located in a shift tower on the floor next to the t-case shifters which have to be stepped over anyways.
 

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#24 ·
For shocks I am going to try some ORI struts, 16's all around. The fronts are mounted, working on the rears this weekend. After that my spare motor comes out and goes off to the motor spa for a cam, rebuilt heads and some LS1 valve springs. I ported my spare blower last year and will pair that with a ported lower intake in an effort to reduce intake temps. Plan is to run a smaller pulley with race gas with the option to swap back to my larger pulley for pump gas usage.
 

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#66 ·
After that my spare motor comes out and goes off to the motor spa for a cam, rebuilt heads and some LS1 valve springs. I ported my spare blower last year and will pair that with a ported lower intake in an effort to reduce intake temps. Plan is to run a smaller pulley with race gas with the option to swap back to my larger pulley for pump gas usage.
Are you ditching the balance shaft, I was at my motor guys shop last week and we were discussing a few things to play with this winter and that was one of them.........
 
#31 · (Edited)
Would love to hear why you think this (for both questions).

I blew apart my old D300 case, what you see is the first pass side drop replace-a-case. Seriously, when I ordered it they told me this was the first time someone ordered one. I have a whole nother billet front half in my garage due to some of the holes being machined wrong on the first one they sent. Seemed like one of the holes patterns didn't get mirror correctly.