Pirate 4x4 banner

Propane Shop Heater Reccomendations. Mr Heater?

3.8K views 21 replies 15 participants last post by  Jrod-13  
#1 ·
#4 ·
Those "Reznor" style heaters kick ass, 80k should be decent.

I have an 80k diesel torpedo heater and it heats a 30x35 un insulated garage well. The nice thing about it is that it will get the temp up fast, like 5 mins knocks the chill off, and 15-20 mins is warm like low 60s. The shit part about it is that it's super loud. For $150 though I can't complain, I'll do a wood stove eventually, but this one is nice for when you first go out, or are only going out for a short time.
 
#5 ·
i had a similar in my last shop 24x30 w/10ft ceilings with the thin isulation sammiched between the exterior tin and the structure. i think it was 40k btu

it was great for that shop because it was small and insulated.

the shop i'm in now is 80x 50 median ceiling ht is 14'. insulated garage doors and insulated to residential code. its a ton of space to heat and if i kept the doors closed i would consider that typ heater. i'm looking to install an infrared heater to aim where i'm working.

tldr. depends on size and use of shop, bigger more open shops it can be nicer to have an infrared unit.
 
#7 ·
It just depends on the set up. If you are going to be working in a certain area and the shop is big and/or poorly insulated, having radiant heat in that area might be better. On the flip side, out side that area will be cold and you are going to use more fuel. It's always more efficient to circulate the air. If you can somewhat keep the heat in.
 
#9 ·
Man, i Always forget when I post something.

Anyone have experience with this Specific brand? My dad has a Beacon Morris but I cant seem to find one in this style anymore .

My building is a 30x48 and fully insulated walls with R19. Ceilings will R30 with some Blown im cellulose on top. It should be plenty insulated when done. Ill likely only keep it at a Temp of around 50 and kick it up higher when in the building for extended amounts of time.
 
#14 · (Edited)
It's a forced vent heater, not what you're thinking when you see Mr. Heater. It vents combustion products outside, not into the room. Combustion products outside = no moisture inside. At least not due to propane combustion


I had one in my old shop. It sucked because it pulls combustion air from inside the room, and vents it outside.

That heater will, by definition, suck cold air in from any leaky seal or gap it can find from outside. In my old shop, when it was below zero outside, it would freeze a water pipe at a seam in the plywood my shop was lined with. It was literally pulling a hint of subzero air through that gap and freezing the water line. That heater, holding my shop at 50F, made the shop always feel cold when running.

Find a furnace or other heater that pulls combustion air from outside. I switched to a pellet stove that sourced combustion air from outside. The shop, being controlled to the same temperature, felt a lot warmer. I bought a newish used house furnace for $300 for my new shop, same effect. It makes 50F feel warm. Do whatever you can to pull combustion air from outside.
 
#18 ·
I have a garage just a tad larger (36x50) and 12' ceiling. I have that exact unit and it will sweat you out. I have it on a thermostat so the garage never dips below 40. from 40 to 65 in the dead of winter in Kansas takes about 10 min. Garage is fully insulated with insulated doors.

Great heater, but the insulated walls/ceiling/doors help quite a bit.
 
#20 · (Edited)
A few years back my insurance was trying to make me ditch the woodstove in my garage, and go to propane...

For the price of a mr heater/reznor/modine/hot dawg/etc, plus the expensive B venting that they require, you can buy an actual 95% efficiency propane furnace, that vents with pvc pipe. Not only are they way more efficient, but also quieter, and have the ability to run duct work.
 
#22 ·
most direct vent HE propane furnaces can be mounted on their side, so you can mount it up by the ceiling, just like the mr heaters.
:smokin::smokin: