so youre wanting articles on a cut and turn? also is it a dana 35 ttb (ranger/explorer) or dana 44 (f150/bronco) setup???

 

The only way to lift a TTB truck wothout drop brackets is called a body lift. without moving the axle pivot points down, you'll never get even close with alignment and you'll waste tires so fast, you'll wish you put the brackets in. Cutting a turning a front end has nothing to do with actually lifting them.

 

A lot of this has already been covered, but i just started reading the thread today so I'll respond anyway.

goodbye track width...hello shitty handling

Yeah I was just gonna say good bye U joints...

4 shocks per wheel:shaking: I just lost all respect for that company

I've owned 2 Autofab equiped TTB trucks. An Explorer and my current DD/toy a fullsize Bronco. Both had what many refer to as "cut and turn" axle-housings. The housings are modified at the lower ball joint to correct camber. contrary to what some are saying, these trucks work great and have never given me any issues even during brutal off-road punishment. Yes you lose a bit of track width, but they handle great on and off-road. I regularly use 4wd when driving hard and I've never had a problem with u-joints. I've also never had alignment issues. In fact, both of my trucks have been within a half degree ideal alignment specs with zero degree eccentrics. Tire wear has always been normal as well.

As far as the number of shocks are concerned, the pics on Autofab's website were probably uploaded over a decade ago. So, they reflect what was common at the time and not what Autofab generally builds now. My Explorer was set up for 2 2.5" Sway-A-Ways (I only used 1) per wheel and my Bronco has 1 2.5" Fox per front wheel.

These pics are more representative of Autofab's more recent work:

No, the coils aren't pink, it's the pic...LOL

Their new Ranger D44 TTB conversion:

 

He means cut the arms near the spindle and angle them. Ive seen it done before, but cant find the thread.

 

goodbye track width...hello shitty handling

 

you sir are retarded. look at the desert guys, runnin beams that theyve modded and they run 80+ mph and have 0 problems.

ron, i was gonna try to get ya more links from the desert sites, but dezertrangers is down, i know theres a few great articles there

wes

 

OMG. It can be done! It doesnt ruin the track width! It doesnt mess up the handling. If you guys dont have a clue, stop trying to post like you know what your talking about, makes you look dumb!:shaking:

Its on a F150.


Nevermind--found what I was looking for @ FSB.

 

Well, that's not a cut and turn. Cut and turn refers to changing pinion angle while maintaining proper caster. I'm sure your F150 will hold up great. It's good to see ingenuity in some situations. Obviously this is a much better method than actually using the 50 dollar brackets designed to work with the kit. Must be why you can't find them to put them in like they were designed.

 

If you look up the screen name 410fortune on either explorer4x4.com or dezertrangers.com and PM him, i'm sure he'll be more than happy to go over how this is done with you. He's done a few of these and I believe he even has a jig for the beams...AND he happens to live in CO.:smokin:

EDIT: Just realised your beams are D44 stuff, 410fortune has done only D35 stuff to my knowledge but the concept is the same.

Here's an old article you may want to look at:http://www.explorer4x4.com/zims.htm

 

Ron, you'd do better to ask this in the desert racing forum....

shitty handling from a cut/turn? yep, Wes is right. that IS retarded.

 

it doesn't matter what you do to it, its still gonna handle like shit because it is a ford. you could cut it off and superglue it back on and It would be just as good as from the factory.

 

its will flex better then chevys ifs:flipoff2:

 

Autofab has a 4” lift system that does what you want. http://www.autofab.com/16front1.htm That link will take you to their web page and fill you in.

 

4 shocks per wheel:shaking: I just lost all respect for that company

 

I think one of the downsides to this setup is that the third or middle U-joint off the passenger side of the diff runs at more of an angle all the time. At least that is what I seem to remember from pictures I saw once. Good luck.

DK

 

Yeah I was just gonna say good bye U joints...

 

x2:laughing:

 

I know TTB handle like crap and eat tires bad enought stock or worse with a lift but I wouldnt mess the the spindles hello traffic accidents side swipes the u joint will go then your axles if your lucky or well unlucky maybe more.

 

TTB is a great IFS truck suspension
the stock steering linkage sucks ass
if you align the thing properly it will not eat tires
a self leveling airbag system would be great for a TTB to keep the camber in spec with varying loads

 

a self leveling airbag system would be great for a TTB to keep the camber in spec with varying loads

Funny you mention that. That is what Ive been looking at doing.

 

you guys don't want shit on my pimped out ride. boo yah!!! again bitches

 

I guess that really shut you guys up. You know once you saw this model of excellency, youre fords could never achieve the amount of greatness this beast has. I can practically rockcrawl over entire mountains. As a matter of fact, I'm planning a trip to colorado this winter, to maybe hit mountain sides. It also Has a pimped out DJ booth that rises out the top..I mean seriously, What fords have you ever seen with something so awesome.

 

reported


and hopefully to be removed... along with every other worthless post you've made

 

I thought he was talking about a dodge truck
every one knows chevs are total junk, the diesel in particular.

 

 

Reported and click IGNORE.

Back on topic I like this idea.
B

 

Reported and click IGNORE.

B

x2

 

Hi yall, I have looked into this style lift a good bit over the last few years I've had my truck.

There benifits to it as there are disadvantages. It realy depends on what your are doing with the vehicle.

With this cut and turn, the advantages are less stress on the crossmember(a stated above), more ground clearance under the axle (if done right), and with proper length rad arms, tons of wheel travel to soak up bumps and jumps. The added wheel travel can also provide more flex on the trails. Granted the amount of flex is not going to compare to a solid axle rig but thats not what these style lifts were intended to do. They should only be used on easy trails and medium trails with an experianced driver. You ain't gonna rock crawl with them. You can how ever run high speeds through places like deserts, fireroads, tough truck tracks, etc.. cause the suspension can handle the jumping due to the extra wheel travel. Just like a solid axle rig ain't the best choice for high speed runnin but is the best choice for rock crawling and more sever trails.

Personaly I have a heavy foot so I prefer the high speed over the slow which is why I looked into this style so much.

As for the Ujoint, I'm sure they will encounter more stress than normal but it all depends on where you cut and how you locate everthing. This can be done with out creating sevear angles on the axle shafts and ujoints.

 

As for the Ujoint, I'm sure they will encounter more stress than normal but it all depends on where you cut and how you locate everthing. This can be done with out creating sevear angles on the axle shafts and ujoints.

If you cut and turn up at the pivot, the u-joint angles will stay virtually unchanged, even the center joint. The only difference you're making in the axle is the pivot point, which would be a bit further up. If you turn at the knuckles, then obviously all three joints will be at greater angles.

The arc of your tire travel would be slightly different, but not enough to cause failures in the joints, at least as far as what I've read from others who have done it. If you use correct length springs for the amount of lift you gain, there shouldn't be any serious camber issues.

I want to say there was an article, or at least a photo of a finished cut & turned ttb in Peterson's several years ago.

 

Someone already mentioned Autofab (John Ehmke) has several options including a bling stearing setup.

Camburg also has severl levels of Cut/turned ttb packages for Bronco/F150.

http://www.camburg.com/ford4x4F150-P4x4.html

You can get just the beams (core required) and extended arms from them as well. The beams are $550 plus core. If you already have extended arms and springs that would be a good way to go for an entry level. They also have non heim version of the their extended arms for $500. I've seen them and they are the best production arms I've seen. Of course if you have the $$$$ an want to go with the bling, Autofab and Camburg have those options. There are a couple of other options in SoCal as well.

 

I was expecting some sort of fixed steering linkage rather then the hideous inverted y and an extended arm to bring the track width back

at a glance I would probably attack the arms inboard of the pumpkin and the steering linkage would be very high on the list of corrections