looks like they were not gresaed often enough. How often did you grease them? Even with the hubs disengaged the axles may turn so greasing them often helps.

 

Isn't the purpose of manual hubs to stop the axles from turning?

 

I typically greased them once a month plus or minus a week. When I disassembled them the grease in the cups and the top of the reservoirs was very thick and nothing like the consistency of the supplied grease?

 

Every time you turn your wheel, the axleshafts turn slightly. Add in a little friction in the t-case, and your driveline can spin a little every trip down the road.

Yes, they always turn--just not always powered.

 

i think i found your problem. 2million miles on an 05 rubi. they just wore out.

Hi all,
inorder to inspect them after 2000k of use.

 

:laughing::laughing:

 

Looks like when you greased them you didn't clean the fitting good and pushed dirt into them. Just my opinion anyways.

 

Galling like that is caused by lack of lubrication or not enough clearance. The super joints is a great quality product and dont think the latter was the problem...........

 

Not enough grease, I would smooth out any high spots and keep running them. Just slam more grease in there next time.
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Definitely galled. It doesn't look like foreign debri.

I would first suspect lack of lube. Did you prelube them before assembly? It's extremely hard to get lube around all the surfaces if it's pumped in after assembly.

However, galling can also be the result of high surface pressure and rotation. The high surface pressure and rotation would generate heat and cause the lube to break down. This would lead to metal to metal contact in a very local region. Essentially you get micro welds that ends up pulling material out.

In either case you are looking at accellerated wear if you reinstall them. The edges of the galled areas will continue to erode generating debri. If this is a DD I would definitely replace them.

 

I think he nailed it....

There is something going on to gall it since the material on both the cap and the cross are pretty hard....

I would call randy's tech department--I am sure they have seen that before..

 

Lack of lube, you can see rust moving up the seal area of the cross. How ever much you were lubing then it was about half what they needed.

 

..

Dam, I wish I had a granite work bench in my shop.

 

Dam, I wish I had a granite work bench in my shop.

Thanks only the best :flipoff2:

 

I am hoping to not see this on mine. I have put about 2500 miles on mine. I have topped the grease up after every run.

My problem is that everytime I have greased mine the grease is forced back out the nipple after I remove the gun, so I am unsure if they are getting enough grease short of disassembling them.

The other issue I found the last couple of times I have serviced them is that it looks like the grease pressure is forcing the ears apart. When iI hit the cap with grease now I can see the cross move toward the opposite cap.

I will update when i have some time to pull the shafts.

Does anyone have a phone # for Yukon? I keep emailing them without a responce.

 

So, will the next thread we see from ZZZ start out with "Pissed, Randy's won't warranty my u-joints"? :flipoff2:

For the real tech, it definitely looks like a lack of lube to me. Threads like these are what is making me scared about running high end u-joints similar to these since I don't seem to lube stuff quite as often as I probably should.

 

i see what happened someone went cheep instead of buying CTMs :shaking: hows it go "always imitated never duplicated" something like that.

 

Why do people always try to start this crap in any u-joint thread? :shaking:
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The lubricant appears to be Copper anti-seize, I am not sure this can be used in this type of application?

 

LACK OF LUBRICANT

I ran those same joints for 2 years, after 7 shattered Chromo shafts, I was still running the same joints and caps. I had a few that looked like that, I would run them, it is not going to hurt anything for a very very long time.

As far as how much to lube them, I can tell you were way under lubed, because it should have looked like a gold paint can blew up inside those caps. The antiseaze is the ONLY lubricant between the cap and the joint, no bearings or anything so yes they are going to get scarred a little even with a lot of lube. you need to coat the caps very heavy before you put that back together and then pump them with lube too.

Be carefull not to pump them after it starts getting pressure though, you could blow the O-ring out, then it would start getting dirt and water in.

Those are good joints, they will take A TON of abuse.

Run'em.... Lube'em.....Run'em.....Lube'em

just dont take'em apart and you'll never know the difference, kind of like not having an oil pressure guage, everything seemed fine until you decide to put one on then see that your motor only carries 15psi :flipoff2:

 

LACK OF LUBRICANT



just dont take'em apart and you'll never know the difference, kind of like not having an oil pressure guage, everything seemed fine until you decide to put one on then see that your motor only carries 15psi :flipoff2:

If my engine put out 15 PSI when it at operating temp, I would be over joyed...I saw 0 PSI this past weekend...

 

Is that the Jeep thing you guys speak of?

 

As everyone has said that was caused by lack of lube, I see it all the time. They will not be covered under warranty for just galling. Lack of lube looks very similar to a rig that has seen a lot of street miles (with hubs locked, like in a D30) and that usually goes hand in hand.

I would say 80% of people that run super joints do no lube them enough. You can still run them, get some new o rings, and grease the shit out of them.

 

LUBE LUBE LUBE. Grease the shit out of those things and run them. Then grease them some more.

 

Thanks

Hey, Thanks for all of the help. I am not nor will I bash these u-Joints, shit happens and I just needed your help to confirm my suspicion that it was a lack of lube.

I had the same problem when I lubricated them the grease would ooze out afterwards. It did this even when the grease nipples were new and contamination free.

 

Are the caps loose in the ears of the axle yokes? If so, the caps could be getting side loaded at odd angles and eventually, there is a domino effect of wear on the joint.

 

Wondering how long it was going to take you to show up in this thread. :flipoff2:
The answer is no, it is the solely due to an inferior joint :homer:

 

Kieth, do you wheel with this guy? The reason I ask is I have seen the axle yoke eyes get warped, like on the softer Moser axles, the caps become side loaded and do similar things to a needle bearing joint.

 

Nope, just farting around. What is interesting to me is that the area that is galled is not consistent around the journals. Like the caps are distorted.

 

How were they isntalled? Most anything is possible. Check to see if everything is true and straight, then work backwards from there.

 

The first pic shows it. This joint was lubed with copper based anti seize. Ive Never had a joint from that manufacturer, but if i did i wouldn't trust it to copper anti seize.

 

That is the spec'd lubrication for them and they are designed to use it as opposed to a regular grease. The copper flakes are squished between the hardened metal surface under load and act as the bearing material. If the caps were a softer material it would not work. Many people use it without issue.

It doesn't work well in any sort of a DD environment because it has shitty resistance to being washed out by water, unless you grease them every time before you lock the hubs.

 

I have over 3 years of use on mine and they still have no slop. I lube them before every day of wheeling and use 2wd as much as possible on the trail to protect them. All I have ever lubed them with is the recommended copper anti seize lube.

 

I would not put them back in. One the caps start to hang up on the galling, the caps will rotate inside your axle shaft ears and wallow them out.

Why Superjoints on a DD? Spicers are strong and don't need all the work.