Very interested to hear some experiences as well, been thinking about a set for my rig

 

I'm interested as well! Wondering if I should ditch these brand new Warn 35 spliners for 'em :grinpimp:

 

I've yet to unlock them much since putting them on my buggy. Done all sorts of stupid stuff and no breakage yet:grinpimp:

Only grip is they are not easy to unlock but maybe I have an assymbly issue ?

 

Though I dont own a set of these, a buddy on here says the same thing about the lock/unlocking of them. Pretty much vice grip style to make the lockouts move from what I was told. I guess thats better than dealing with a broken hub often and being able to have the select-ability?

 

They are a huge bitch to unlock

 

They need to make a poly hub key. Cause they are hard to turn.

 

I've had mine be hard to unlock also, but it seemed to be because they were still loaded. So if i just let my rig roll alittle bit with the T-case in 2H then they turn just fine. Also if the cap screws are too tight or the O-ring around the dial isn't greased then they dont turn easy either.

 

Running them on my JK. Hard to unlock, and you need 4 hands to install them. On the set I got, the spring diameter was bigger than the puck diameter, which made it a bitch to slide it all in at once.

The puck itself is about half the thickness of most drive flange pucks, but they have been holding up great so far, much better than the Warns and MMs I was breaking all the time.

 

I've yet to unlock them much since putting them on my buggy.

 

I've had them on my dd/wheeler front 60 since they were first released.

I have zero problems with them unlocking, but I unlock them after I have the truck in 2wd when I'm getting ready to get back in the main roads. Weird you guys are having problems.

I also run 5" bs trailreadys so the hubs see plenty of abuse. I used to run 6" bs dodge wheels and with those the hubs really stuck out. Plenty of abuse by my driving style and just from them sticking out and getting bashed on the rocks.

I am 110% satisfied with them.

 

Installed mine, one person, lock and unlock like butter. Make sure u follow directions and grease the piss outta them when installing. Also seriously torque the last allen bolts to 12lbs or whatever it was. too tight will cause them to be a bitch to turn. Haven't wheeled it yet , but I don't see them bein a weak point

 

Love mine. They are tough to unlock at times. Make sure you grease the shit out of everything including the dial o ring. 2 wheel drive and rocking the rig a little helps with unlocking. 4 hands makes install much easier

 

Love mine too ran them with 47's and now 40" stickies.

Once you install them it all makes since, as to why they are so strong

Also when mine are hard to unlock I put the rig in 2wd and drive 20-30' and then the hubs turn like butter

 

Love mine. A little hard to unlock mine too. Put it in 2wd does help.

 

Yall need to make some "manual hub tools" like I made for my g/f for her Tacoma...

just get the biggest pvc T that will index the hub and grind 2 notches in it.

Here's a random pic i found

 

Just bought a set and installed. It'll be a year or so before I get to try them out.

 

Any news?

 

Mine were really stiff when I first put them together, pulled them back apart and oiled (used Rotella) the inside of the hub dials (while turning them back and forth). They turn very easy now, however it does have to be in 2wd to unlock easy...

 

Bumping this got mine back together this weekend they were a pain to turn. Pushed the dial out of the bezel a thin layer of grease between the two and turn very easy now.

 

It seems that these positively unlock, rather than normal ones that just unlock under spring tension.

If you have a load on something of that design you'll have to twist it really fawkin' hard to ramp the teeth over to disengage them. The clutch teeth will have an angle to them to stay engaged under load.

Bind your shit up in 4 locked and try and jerk the t-case out of engagement, it just don't work, for the exact same reason.

 

Mine are happy with a light film of grease on all the moving surfaces, unlock easily with the vehicle in 2wd. Sometimes have a bit of a delay locking due to spring lock, usually I spin the front driveshaft a few times back and forth by hand and they pop right in.

Because of how they unlock, not a good idea to put them on a spooled axle.

 

love them...

very tough. i have been beating on them with 43 stickys and 450hp. they take it and ask for more. great product.

 

Mine work great. The torque spec on the caps makes a world of difference in locking/unlocking. I also find it easier to unlock them when in 2wd, if I roll in a straight line before I stop in 4wd I can still unlock them without too much fuss. I run H2 wheels so the lockouts stick out past the wheel just a little bit, but they haven't taken any damage yet (Not that many rocks to play on).

I did break one, but it was my fault. One of the caps on my u-joint broke and fell off and the stub shaft was wallowing around damaging one of the gears inside. I called up Yukon to purchase a replacement and ask if I should order any other parts and they sent me a new gear free of charge. :smokin: The only issue I had was the communication was slow on their part, but I got a free replacement when I didn't ask for one so it's definitely a wash.

 

I put mine with the 4340 chromos in a few weeks ago and I love em. Unlocking was a bitch until I figured out to let it roll 20 or so ft then unlock em. My pass side was a bitch to lock because I didnt see that the hub itself was warped just enough to make it a pain in the ass to turn the dial. My truck weighs around 8000lb and I BEAT on these things, would recommend to anyone.

 

Just got mine installed over the weekend. Overall I'm pleased with the part quality and function of the lockouts, but I have a question about stub shaft endplay.

With the dial/cover removed from the setup, I can push/pull the stub shaft almost 1/4" inch before the snap ring contacts the drive gears. This would indicate to me that there isn't enough preload on the axle shaft to ensure a proper seal on the back side of the spindle (the axle shaft should be applying a tiny bit of preload to seal properly). This can lead to water ingress and dirt contamination within the hub.

Anyone know if this is common? Is there any danger in shimming between the axle shaft snap ring and the drive gears to keep the stub shaft from 'floating' as much?

 

I made a quick spacer out of 1.5 or 1.75" .120 DOM, whichever fits best over the axle shaft because my inner shafts were rubbing on the axle tube around the inside of the inner C. Never thought about the spindle seal but makes sense. Do it!

 

I suppose I will! I think I even have a chunk of aluminum I can machine into the spacer for lightness (real reason: easier to machine).

I played around with it today to make double sure. Jacked the truck up and spun each wheel with the hub in free spin mode and moved the axle shaft towards and away from the diff. No noticeable sounds came from the lockout so it's definitely adjusted correctly. I just assume Yukon played it safe and left more float. Heck even my old factory hubs had some play - which is sort of why I'm asking if it's ok to space things out to make a better seal.

 

I suppose I will! I think I even have a chunk of aluminum I can machine into the spacer for lightness (real reason: easier to machine).

I played around with it today to make double sure. Jacked the truck up and spun each wheel with the hub in free spin mode and moved the axle shaft towards and away from the diff. No noticeable sounds came from the lockout so it's definitely adjusted correctly. I just assume Yukon played it safe and left more float. Heck even my old factory hubs had some play - which is sort of why I'm asking if it's ok to space things out to make a better seal.