I have seen good experiences with using square tube for control arms so I went with some 2x2x.25 wall tubing for all of my control arms. I am using bushings on the axle end of the lowers and JJ's at the frame. For the uppers I am using flex joints at the frame and JJ's at the axle end. Here are my front arms getting made:

Truss with spring pads on the 60:

Front adjustable driverside upper frame mount:

Started mocking everything up in place for the front 3 link and I tried to get as much stretch out of the front as I could without moving the steering box:

I am going for a low stance and don't have the money for fully hydro at this time so I went with an over the knuckle tie-rod with 1 hi-steer arm on the passenger side for my drag link:

To eliminate bumpsteer as much as possible, I tried to get my panhard mount as long as I could and directly in line with the drag link. I made a custom raised axle mount and and lower my frame mount:

 

Here is the axle painted and ready to be installed and we noticed while installing the new u-joints that I have a hair line crack in one of the ears of my inners so I will need to get some chromollys before the first ride :grinpimp:

I ended up with them as close as I could get them in line:

The panhard has a straight shot to the to the frame:

Front end sitting on its own with RE 4.5 springs and almost 3" of stretch:

 

It was then time to work on the rear. I first grinded the lip off on the 14 bolt so it had a smooth bottom:

Then made a truss out of some 2.5x2.5x.25" square tubing:

I already had PS crusher corners and decided I should just keep using them and cut out the space that I needed and here is what I ended up with:

I wanted my rear uppers to be adjustable just like my front upper so here are the rear frame mounts I made:

 

I then started mocking up my uppers and lowers:

Here is with all of the links mounted front and rear:

I now need to find a home for my coil springs and I wanted to run front TJ coil springs so I need to notch the frame:

Here it is plated with the spring pad:

I also added a frame tie-in/brace after that to stregthen the frame a little more:

After getting the upper spring mounts done, I got the lowers burnt in and the rest of the tabs also:

Painted:

 

I have doing all of the welding on this project with a stick/arc welder and I did not want to burn my frame brackets in with it upside down so I got my buddy to bring over his mig so I could burn everything in with it. Then I pushed everything back under the Jeep and bolted the tires on and sitting at 106" wheelbase and sitting 6'7" to the top of my B-pillar:

I got the brakes bled and everything done minus shocks and limiting straps in the rear. I took it on a test drive and it drives straight and true with no bumpsteer. I am waiting on a new brake line for the rear since I busted it on accident and I still need to mount my shocks when they come in next week and I am debating on how to mount the rears.

That is where I am at right now. I am still working all of the kinks out. I should have some chromo shafts, limiting straps, new hubs, and shocks so I can go on a ride by the end of July.

 

Looks good, a very clean and simple build. How did you cut the rear PS corners?

 

4 1/2 Grinder with a cut off wheel. The only tools used in my entire build were 3- 4 1/2 angle grinders (burnt up 2 of them), and a welder.

 

Nice work Tweeba, looking good. You need to get it out on the trails

 

Thanks, matt. You ain't kidding. I should have the kinks worked out by next weekend and then I am trying to get my money flow back up for the chromos so I don't have to use the plastic. :flipoff2:

pretty damn similar to my most recent build...I like it. I was running stock tj front coils in the rear but they were too soft so I replaced them with front xj coils and cut about 1.5 turns off of the bottom. the jeep is a lot more stable now and doesnt bottom out as much. just something to consider

I like the stance the TJ coils give me and the reason I didn't want to go with ZJ or XJ coils is because it would make me to high (and I already had the TJ coils from when I bought the jeep. ). That is a good idea on using the XJ's and cutting some off the bottom of the coil. I won't know the stability of these until I get my shocks on. How do you like your shocks inboarded at such an angle?

 

pretty damn similar to my most recent build...I like it. I was running stock tj front coils in the rear but they were too soft so I replaced them with front xj coils and cut about 1.5 turns off of the bottom. the jeep is a lot more stable now and doesnt bottom out as much. just something to consider

 

Nice! What is next on the list?

 

Wheelin. :smokin:

This weekend I have to cut some more out of the rear fenders and possibly move my body mounts and then add 2" of bumpstop to the rear.

Next week my shocks should be here so I can get them mounted up and then get my limiting strap mounts done and ordered for the rear.

 

That looks sick tweba! Your right, I should be real close to yours when I am done.

 

nice build but i'm gunna bet you used a some wrenches and a hammer.:grinpimp:

 

How much bumpsteer and lateral swing do you have with that short panhard? Is the mount on the axle inside the framerail? If not it looks like it is also going to limit uptravel.

 

I have ZERO bumpsteer. I can be going down a bumpy road and the jeep goes straight and I can go from 0-60 and not have any death wobble or shimmy. The frame mount is mounted close to the outside of the frame. I am running coil springs so I made the panhard as long as I could and it is up close to the passenger side coil. There was no room to run it in front of the coil spring without moving my steering box or going full hydro. I think it is only 3"-4" shorter than the drag link.

It does not limit my uptravel or downtravel but for being so low and running my drag link on top of a hi-steer arm, I am only running around 3" of uptravel anyway. I built it for mostly downtravel which works for me in slow crawling rocks.

 

Hey Tweeba, do you live in Gulfport???? If not how close are you??? Are those first pics from the Superlift park in Hot Springs, if so, I was born and raised about a mile from the entrance and will soon be transfering back to Gulfport (Military). Maybe we can hook up later and get some wheelin' done.:grinpimp:

 

I am right outside Jackson, MS in Brandon. Yes those pictures were in Hot Springs above. That is one of my favorite places to go wheelin. As soon as I get it finished, I will let you know when the next ride that we will be going on. :smokin:

cool build! are ya gonna post this on any more forums? yeesh! :flipoff2:

:flipoff2: I know I am always looking for info on different things and not everybody gets on every forum so I am trying to help somebody out looking for pointers. :grinpimp:

Tweeba, you're stretched out to 105". Is all of that from moving the rear axle back? Or did you get some of it from moving the front axle forward a little?

I will show my ignorance here by asking, is the front 3 link set up like you have with only one control arm going to one side of the frame a proven set up? Or is it something you came up with? I like it that you can still use you stock steering box.


Nice work. I'm going to be doing something similar with our TJ in the next few months and I'm looking for ideas.

Thanks,
NIB

I moved the front axle almost 3" forward and the rear axle the rest with keeping the steering box in the stock location. Yes, 3 link with panhard is a proven setup. Do some searching on here and you will see that alot of people are running this and even Polyperformance sells a front 3-link kit if you can't fab one yourself.

 

cool build! are ya gonna post this on any more forums? yeesh! :flipoff2:

 

Tweeba, you're stretched out to 105". Is all of that from moving the rear axle back? Or did you get some of it from moving the front axle forward a little?

I will show my ignorance here by asking, is the front 3 link set up like you have with only one control arm going to one side of the frame a proven set up? Or is it something you came up with? I like it that you can still use you stock steering box.


Nice work. I'm going to be doing something similar with our TJ in the next few months and I'm looking for ideas.

Thanks,
NIB

 

couple questions. I'm in the middle of doing a similar 4link in the rear of mine.

looking at a similar ride height on mine, maybe a tad lower. I'm trying to keep it as low as possible.


how much uptravel are you setting yours up to run?


do you have any trouble with the upper links hitting the body?

I'm not running any kind of body lift, and I'm worried the upper links are gonna contact under full stuff.

what size tires are those?


my lowers are tacked in place right now, gotta cut my uppers today.

 

I am running almost 3" of uptravel in the front and I will be running around 4" of uptravel in the rear. My links get close to the body and I though I was going to have to notch them but my bumpstops stop that and my tire will hit the fenders before that happens. I am not running any kind of body lift either. I am running 39.5's. If you make yours much lower than mine then you will definitely need to clearance the tub at the "step up" in the tub. Good luck with your build!

 

tweba - thanks for the response and I will do some more researching on the 3-link front set-up.

NIB

 

Looks good. Your front 60 is full width I'm assuming...? How wide is your front end (OT to OT) w/ the 39.5's and H2 wheels?

- Chris

 

Yes, my 60 and my 14 bolt are both full width. From OT to OT on the front is about 80".

 

Were those 37 Iroks bias ply or radials? How'd you like 'em?

 

They were the 36" bias Iroks actually and they were some of the best tires I have ever ran. That is why I got them in 39.5.

 

Love how you stretched the Jeep. Im wanting to do the same thing to mine. If stock wheelbase is 94'' and you stretched the front 3'' that put you at 97''. So you got another 8'' out of the rear stetch. Im shooting for the same wheelbase.

 

That would be my guess except I checked my wheelbase this past weekend and I am sitting at 106 1/2" so I probably stretched the rear closer to 10". :grinpimp:

 

Tweba,

Did you have any interference problems between the rear axle and the fuel tank?

Thanks,
NIB

 

Not with this in the back.

 

Very nice indeed!

 

alright lets see some action shots!

also how was that D30 built before and how well did it do with 37s?

 

Mine did fine but replace Ball Joints after 6 months of Wheeling and DD...BTW Get Moog Ball Joints or Spicers...

Anthony

 

That TJ is looking SWEET!!!

 

Alright. Looks like I am done with it as long as I am driving around town. :flipoff2:

I needed more clearance in the rear so my tires woudln't rub so I had to cut them all the way to the body mounts. This wasn't an easy task since on the passenger side there is a "cutout" built in the PS corners for the tailgate hinges and the cutout is made for the newer jeep hinges, which are longer. So, I had to remove that corner and fill in the gap where the hinges go and space out the tailgate side of the hinges with some left of 3/16" steel to compensate for that. Here is how they turned out:

All shocks are mounted with my front shocks in the stock position on the frame and on top of the control arms for the axle end:

My rear shocks I was able to outboard without notching the frame and just angling them a little bit forward of the axle:

I also measured for limiting straps in the rear so I don't ruin my shocks or lose my coil springs. You can see the mounts here:

I also got all of my brake problems fixed up and everything is good to go. Now, all I need to do is get a smaller muffler and clamp a turndown on it, order my limiting straps, get my chromo axle shafts and new drive flanges and I am ready for the trail. :smokin: