Hey all you guys that are running the 5.3l chevy motors in your Jeeps, what trans and case are you all running?
5.3 Jeeps
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b_rine
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I put the novak headers on my yj tub on a tj frame and they are sanderson headers. If you are using advanced adapters motor mounts you have to take the ballpin hammer to the passenger header,and pull the 3/16 spacers and bend the mount together and push it toward the front of the jeep. Not a fan. To much money for something that does not fit. I also put the Novak Ac relocate kit on. Not 1 single direction. They have 3 pictures of it on their web site and thats it. Once again to much money for what you get. Sorry for the vent but it was a waste of time trying to reinvent the wheel.:mr-t:
Thanks:mr-t: for the input on the vent lines
Thanks:mr-t: for the input on the vent lines
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17 Posts
I want to put a tranny temp on a 4l60e.
I would think the easiest thing to do is put a sending unit on the output line to the cooler. Which is outlet is the output??
CAn I use the factory unit?
I would think the easiest thing to do is put a sending unit on the output line to the cooler. Which is outlet is the output??
CAn I use the factory unit?
i was going to suggest this, we have a set laying in the shop i work at from my bosses 04 zo6, and they look like they would fit pretty tight to the block, might be a good option.
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Use a test port, they are already 1/8 npt like most temp sending units are.
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I'd have to go look again, but I believe the bottom one is the outlet? 50/50 right?
That's what I did as well. It's the temp of the oil right after the pump, so it fluctuates as the oil temp does. Rather than in the pan showing more of an 'average'. I have an Edge in my rig and can see the pan temp and the pump temp. They do criss cross at some points, but mostly they will parallel each other in temps. Just depending what your doing....
The test port is on the left side of the trans, just behind the 1/8" plug... Above and forward of the shifter.
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Thanks thats a lot easier than slicing it into the cooler line.
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Mine were from a '99 or so C5 if I remember right. I used to have an old school (Ramjet) 350 in there so I used lS1 adapter plates to position the new engine in the same location as the old one ('cause I didn't want to fabricate new tranny mounts too...) The adapter plates make it so the old school 350 3-bolt engine mounts go in front of the exhaust. I'm not sure how well everything would've worked without those adapters but with them, everything fits great... The stock Corvette headers allow enough room above the driveshaft to sneak the exhaust out above it on the driver's side and they have plenty of room for the external NV4500 clutch slave on the passenger's side.
Jake
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This thread, along with waynehartwig has been a huge help in gathering info on everything that I need to do the 5.3 swap in my YJ. My dad has been checking into these engines and shot me a link just to take a look at. Needless to say it was interesting to read. http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=73405
Basically what that link is saying is that somehow, rust formed on the inside of the fuel rail causing the engine to run like crap. Just out of curiosity, has anyone had this kind of problem? I'm picking up a 5.3 and 4L60E out of an 05 Tahoe soon and wanted to see if there is any way I could test the fuel rail to make sure there is no rust on the inside or just get a better rail all together. I figured this may be helpful to someone so I might as well post it. Thank you for all of the help! I will post up my progress in my rig over the next few months!
Basically what that link is saying is that somehow, rust formed on the inside of the fuel rail causing the engine to run like crap. Just out of curiosity, has anyone had this kind of problem? I'm picking up a 5.3 and 4L60E out of an 05 Tahoe soon and wanted to see if there is any way I could test the fuel rail to make sure there is no rust on the inside or just get a better rail all together. I figured this may be helpful to someone so I might as well post it. Thank you for all of the help! I will post up my progress in my rig over the next few months!
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The 05 should have stainless fuel rails so it should be OK. I can't remember what year but I think 04 they went to all stainless rails. As that was the problem and they added the E-85 option and need the stainless rails because of the corrosion.
I would remove the rail, inspect, and clean it, should fix the problems.
So after giving up on re-inventing the wheel I finally got my t-case reassembled. Here's what I finally ended up with:
The case is the original NP231J from my heep.
Front output is from an Dodge NP231D t-case.
The main shaft is from a mid 90's NP231C
I used the chevy input since it's a 27 spline and matches the tranny. I also robbed the wide main gear, reluctor ring, VSS, and tail cone from the chevy t-case.
The clocking ring is all home build stuff using a 8" O.D x 5" I.D. x3/8" thick steel donut.
While I had the case apart I also cut about 3/8" off the tail end of the rear output shaft to get to the softer steel. I then drilled it and will tap it in the next day or so. I'll be installing a flanged SYE and then I can deal with the driveshaft.
Made a lot of progess on the wiring as well today. Hopefully I can get the PCM mounted tomorrow and start shortening some of the wires for it too. Buying a harness would most certainly have been easier, but going this route I'm becoming intimately familiar with the Chevy harness. Yes, thats a good thing.
Did a little research and measuring at the parts house a few days back and found that a GM fuel pump (from the same model and year as the donor rig for my engine) will fit in my stock fuel tank. The upper ring will need to be widened by either plastic welding another ring onto it or sandwiching between two pieces of stainless steel. I'm thinking that the SS option is the better of the two.
Batteries in the camera are dead, so no pics till I get some more, not that there's anything really interesting to see at this point.
The case is the original NP231J from my heep.
Front output is from an Dodge NP231D t-case.
The main shaft is from a mid 90's NP231C
I used the chevy input since it's a 27 spline and matches the tranny. I also robbed the wide main gear, reluctor ring, VSS, and tail cone from the chevy t-case.
The clocking ring is all home build stuff using a 8" O.D x 5" I.D. x3/8" thick steel donut.
While I had the case apart I also cut about 3/8" off the tail end of the rear output shaft to get to the softer steel. I then drilled it and will tap it in the next day or so. I'll be installing a flanged SYE and then I can deal with the driveshaft.
Made a lot of progess on the wiring as well today. Hopefully I can get the PCM mounted tomorrow and start shortening some of the wires for it too. Buying a harness would most certainly have been easier, but going this route I'm becoming intimately familiar with the Chevy harness. Yes, thats a good thing.
Did a little research and measuring at the parts house a few days back and found that a GM fuel pump (from the same model and year as the donor rig for my engine) will fit in my stock fuel tank. The upper ring will need to be widened by either plastic welding another ring onto it or sandwiching between two pieces of stainless steel. I'm thinking that the SS option is the better of the two.
Batteries in the camera are dead, so no pics till I get some more, not that there's anything really interesting to see at this point.
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I am running a 24 x 19 dual pass griffin universal. I trimmed the grille, inset the radiator, and I am running a taurus fan
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Running one from AA and their SPL fan combo.:smokin:
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That shouldn't be too tall an order. I put a universal Griffin in my YJ (can't remember the size...big as would fit between the headlights) and I had some brackets TIG welded on for around 350 total. It cooled a Ramjet just fine with a mechanical flex-a-lite fan (no fan clutch/no shroud).
Now that I'm upgrading to to a 6.0 liter, There's more room, so I'm installing a Black Magic 150 electric fan. Oh, my 6.0 was equipped with hoses for an engine oil cooler, so I installed a 6-row oil cooler as well. Haven't quite got it running yet, but I expect it to be as cool as a cucumber.
HTH,
Jake
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When you're ready to fire it up take the injectors out and let them soak overnight in some Seafoam.
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