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wahlstrom1

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I threw an early bronco D44 under the truck about 3 years ago, and it worked fine for around here. Wheeled it lots and never even broke a 260 U-joint in a 30 yr old stock shaft... locked on 37's!

Then I got it in my head to apply for Petersons Ultimate Adventure and wheeled for the first time on rock....

-2 broken hubs
-2 bent inner C's
-loosened axled tubes
-4 broken wheel studs (lost a tire at 60+ mph)
-destroyed detroit locker
-bent every square foot of sheet metal behind the cab.

So.... it's time for a bit of a rebuild! I'm pretty sure doing this didn't help...

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Here's what it used to look like:

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The new driveline:

LQ4 - NV4500 - NP241
Spidertrax housings - True Hi9's (5.38's) - D60/14B outers
63" chevy rear's - 3 Link front with 16" x 2.5" Air shocks
42" Pitbull Rockers on Carnage fab beadlocks

4.0L V6 out
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6.0L V8 in
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Front diff at full stuff
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Stupid simple motor mounts, they lined right up on the stock crossmember.
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Flat Belly! Got the tcase and tranny in with a 2" body lift to clear the floor, and make everything else a lot easier as well....

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Mocking up the 3 link up front
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Front housing all trussed up and ready for track bar/hydro assist mounts

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Discussion starter · #2 ·
Building a subframe, rather then welding and plating the entire chassis. All crossmembers will mount to the topside, keeping a smooth belly.

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Getting the shock hoops in

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Mockin up the new rubber under it

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Lots more to go....
 
Looks great, should be a real ass kicker with that motor:smokin:

How far forward are you pushing the axle...if any? I went an inch forward with mine to keep the tires (37's) out of the firewall. That's probably the limit for me without having to move the steering box forward.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
How far forward are you pushing the axle...if any? I went an inch forward with mine to keep the tires (37's) out of the firewall. That's probably the limit for me without having to move the steering box forward.
It'll be 3-4" forwards, and with the prerunner fenders I gained 3" of room behind the tire. You should be able to go ahead 2-3" with the stock box location, I'll just be running my draglink behind my tierod.

Subscribed you better finish this thing.
I plan on DD'ing it for the winter, my 2wd diesel isn't gonna make a great winter vehicle.
 
I remember the first build you had on this thing and it was very nice i would have loved to see the 4bt in it also! But the new motor will be better suited i think. Lets get some more detailed pics link mounts frame side and what not.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I'd love to get into UA again, but I had my chance this year and Matt got in with his slimer green chevy... mine wasn't close to being finished anyways, probably for the better!

You can kinda see the link mounts, and how the plate hangs inside the frame. I don't have the passenger side in yet as I have to build the upper mount and make sure it clears the starter etc, just waiting to get my links back from the only shop I could find to bend them (in moab til the 15th!) and then I'll get that squared away and get some better pics up.

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Discussion starter · #15 ·
Just got my links back and I'm workin on them now, and the track bar. Once the front end is sitting on the ground I'll get the exhaust made up so I can get the engine running. I'm gonna see how low I can make it tuck up front (currently sitting at 6" uptravel on 16" shocks) and that'll determine what I do on the axle housing out back.
 
Caliper grinding is not bad as long as your forarms can handle it, oh and your grinder...if you have a HF grinder you will know why it cost you so little haha....
 
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