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#3,341 ·
joshua1086 said:
Any takers? I need to purchase them and would like to get some good feedback before I do. Also any feedback on radiators used would be great.

Thanks
Josh
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I used AA weld in becuase they were cheaper on my dads YJ. I had to cut them on one side and make a spacer between the mount and frame on the other side to off set the motor 1" to the passenger side for trans to drive shaft clearance. Motor was a 03 5.3 with a 91 700r4

The work quality was nice and the company was easy to deal with.
 
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#3,344 · (Edited)
kmkommes said:
3) Modify your own junk yard harness. All the info is out there. Cost is close to free. The junk yard harness will have 20-30 wires that need to be figured out. Most go to some sort of fuse for 12 volt power or to a ground. What the aftermarket does is attach all of these together so you only have a couple wires to hook up to be up and running. Power, Ground, and a couple others. I have never seen or really looked at an aftermarket harness so I dont know how simple they make them. I would think that most have a small fuse block. There is nothing difficult about these harnesses.. All the diagrams are out there. Most sensors go directly from the sensor to the ECU... You basically need to figure out the power and grounds and a few other things.

The benefit to modifying your own harness is in the end you will be able to troubleshoot the system a lot easier. Just keep track of any changes you make. If the oem wired the trucks the way the aftermarket does it would not be as easy to troublshoot. For instance.... If injector #3 shorted out on an oem harness a fuse would blow but the engine would still run because injectors 2,4,6,8 are on a seperate fuse than injectors 1,3,5,9. You would hook your scan tool up and see odd cylinders not firing and know exactly where to look. The truck would still run on 4 cylinders.

If the same thing happened on an aftermarket harness and a fuse would blow (hopefully) but you might have 8 other sensors on that same fuse.... You might even have a larger fuse in there and could run the possibilty of a shorted wire burning up before the fuse actually blew. Again, I have never looked at an aftermarket harness and seen what type of fuse block they have and how they wire things. It would be nice if the aftermarket company that supplied your harness also provided a diagram for future troublshooting. They might, but they might not...

Thats about all I know. I modified my own harness and thought it was really easy and close to free.
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Good summation. I would only add that using the stock fuse box from the donor vehicle makes everything about 10 times easier. Using the stock fuse box in conjunction with the PCM you're basically looking at loading a VATS-free tune, hooking up 4 or 5 wires, and giving it 60PSI of fuel and it will run.

The other advantage of doing it yourself: You learn a lot...you'll have a much better shot at troubleshooting/repairing it if anything happens on the trail.

If you're putting it into an old vehicle (like my YJ), doing it yourself with the donor fuse box makes a lot of sense. Having a purpose-built harness might make a lot more sense when you're putting the engine in a newer vehicle like a TJ or something...I wouldn't know.


HTH,
Jake
 
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#3,345 ·
IrkedCitizen said:
If I were to buy mounts they'd probably be the Novak mounts. The ones in the picture below are not my mounts. It is a picture that Novak sent me via email when I was searching out mount ideas.

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Thats TITS!! If that is there weld-in mount then that picture just sold me with the adjustability, and I def can do it myself. Also dropping out the bottom looks easy with these still. I do have a cross over tube but its removable.

Thanks for the help, ANYONE have anything on the HEADERS or RADIATOR??
 
#3,348 ·
Exhaust

99 TJ, advance adapter motor mounts, LY6,NV4500,NP241,custom 3 link, single piece front drive shaft, Dana 60 narrowed 2.71" on driver side for a WMS of about 67" I think.

Hooker LS Super Comp Block Hugger Headers

Fits AWESOME on driver side. Passenger side does NOT fit, I will be removing passenger side motor mount and pushing it forward about an inch or two.

Pics
 

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#3,349 ·
Here are the Novak weld in TJ/LJ mounts (I bought them about 8 months ago; so I'm not sure if they are the current weld in design.) I used the Sanderson Headers I got from Novak. Everything fit perfect the first try. These pics should show the clearance they provide relative to the motor mounts.

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#3,350 ·
That is a super clean setup, I wish the adjustability was in it like the previous pictures. I guess these take the guess work out of the equation.

Next question on these would be how do you like the location of the engine? Is it far enough to the rear to run the stock mech fan? Is it far enough to the pass side to easily clear the drive shaft?

From anyone that has done the swap would you push the engine as far forward as you could to help the rear drive shaft length? Or were there other factors involved in the placement of the engine?

Thanks
 
#3,352 ·
I am running a modified 5.3l with a chevy V8 conversion radiator, Tuaraus electric fan, controlled by the ECM...... Works like a charm, its cooler in detroit now so I can really tell yah how she will do in heat. From allot of experience, with an all aluminum motor like the L92, they are allot easier to cool. You shouldnt have an issues with the above cooling set up.

I would highly suggest using the fan controller in the ECM, it supplys a ground to a relay. Super simple and uses the coolant temp sensor to do all control. I though it was slick as shit.....
 
#3,354 ·
joshua1086 said:
That is a super clean setup, I wish the adjustability was in it like the previous pictures. I guess these take the guess work out of the equation.

Next question on these would be how do you like the location of the engine? Is it far enough to the rear to run the stock mech fan? Is it far enough to the pass side to easily clear the drive shaft?

From anyone that has done the swap would you push the engine as far forward as you could to help the rear drive shaft length? Or were there other factors involved in the placement of the engine?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Using the 4 1/4" mount location from the frame index that Novak recommends and the adjustable block end of the mounts in the middle hole I think the location would be perfect. I pushed the engine as far back as possible with the block side adjustable mount and my pass side head barely touched the firewall. I'm doing a flat dash so I just adjusted the firewall with an air hammer. I didn't have to worry about rear DS length because I have an LJ; so I just put the engine as far back as possible. This helped bring the NV4500 shifter closer to me and out of the dash. The motor seems to sit a bit to the pass side so there is plenty of room in my setup for the front DS. I have a stock rubi case and stock rubi 44 housings.

Hope this helps.
 
#3,355 ·
Throttle Happy said:
OK, I am going to go back to the start and start reading but I am putting a
L92 in a TJ that will be built and tuned to about 500HP, can anyone tell me what is out there for rad & fan combo's that could handle the job
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I went with Griffin, they will build what you need and can include the fan. I had them include a steam line tap and an internal tranny cooler for my 350 hp 5.3.

Check out this link for a cooling primer: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/
 
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#3,356 ·
I've read most of the 135 pages in a short amount of time so a lot of this info is running together right now. I'm doing the 5.3 conversion in a 80 cj5 with the 4le60 trans. I guess my main question is since I don't have all the computer to mess with from the jeep will I still have to get the ecm reprogrammed or will i be ok running it as it is? thanks
 
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#3,357 ·
Primed67 said:
I've read most of the 135 pages in a short amount of time so a lot of this info is running together right now. I'm doing the 5.3 conversion in a 80 cj5 with the 4le60 trans. I guess my main question is since I don't have all the computer to mess with from the jeep will I still have to get the ecm reprogrammed or will i be ok running it as it is? thanks
Click to expand...
Short answer yes you need to get the GM computer tuned for it to even run with enabled VATS.


For one a tune will remove check engine lights. Second it will boost your performance as well.
 
#3,360 ·
Just pulled the plug on mine, I sold the 4.0 out of it, and go to pick up my LQ4 in a couple days.

More questions, I really like the guage setups some of you are running.

For the factory guages I understand you need the Jeep PCM/ECM to make it work. If I do the autometer guages and remove the Jeep PCM so I also have to re wire all of the lights, stereo, ac, and everythign else?

How difficult is putting the guages in?

Wayne, can you build my harness specific for aftermarket guages, so its plug and play?

Thanks,
Josh
 
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