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#4,002 ·
6.0 surges at highway speed when AC is on ?

When I am crusing with traffic 70-80 mph and I turn the AC on it causes a very noticable surge when the compressor is cycling on and off it also does it when at idle but is more of a normal sound have any of you that is running ACs ever had this problem ? if so is there something in the tune that can be done to correct it ?
 
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#4,003 ·
Why J? said:
I have cleaned the hole out several times and the coolant keeps coming back.
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It could be cracked in the hole not that impossible. If it was you always would just use a bolt in the hole with Teflon tape to seal it. Just make sure to do it before it has water in it.

But if the engine is dry and has no coolant in it there should be any getting in there even if it was cracked.
 
#4,004 ·
ALLJ said:
When I am cursing with traffic 70-80 mph and I turn the AC on it causes a very noticeable surge when the compressor is cycling on and off it also does it when at idle but is more of a normal sound have any of you that is running ACs ever had this problem ? if so is there something in the tune that can be done to correct it ?
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What year motor, size etc...?
Is it DBW or DBC, and is the A/C compressor hooked up to the PCM.
 
#4,006 ·
Try inspecting and cleaning the TB and resetting the learned idle by removing power from PCM (disconnect battery). Also check for vacuum leaks just to be safe.
 
#4,007 · (Edited)
Bo185 said:
It could be cracked in the hole not that impossible. If it was you always would just use a bolt in the hole with Teflon tape to seal it. Just make sure to do it before it has water in it.

But if the engine is dry and has no coolant in it there should be any getting in there even if it was cracked.
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The head is cracked and since this motor is still covered by the yards warranty I am getting a new motor. They offered to give me a new head, gasket and head bolts but it is easier to just replace the motor.

I also found out that the truck this motor was in was hit in the driver side front and that is the head that is leaking. I believe that the head was damaged in the accident so who knows what else was damaged.

Shame too, this thing runs great and I was only lacking installing the muffler of being done.
 
#4,008 ·
Why J? said:
The head is cracked and since this motor is still covered by the yards warranty I am getting a new motor. They offered to give me a new head, gasket and head bolts but it is easier to just replace the motor.

I also found out that the truck this motor was in was hit in the driver side front and that is the head that is leaking. I believe that the head was damaged in the accident so who knows what else was damaged.

Shame too, this thing runs great and I was only lacking installing the muffler of being done.
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Hey, at least you got it warranted!
 
#4,009 ·
AZSahara said:
I also used C6 Corvette manifolds. With a V8 you kinda have to choose what's going to clear you're steering and upper control arms if you go long arm. A few pics. Bullet cats coming off the manifolds. 2.5 inch dual in and out Magnaflow in the original catalytic converter tunnel. I have a triangulated 4 link rear so we went out the back on each side for 2.5 inch duals.
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Does the cat below the oil pan cause any temperature issues with the oil? I've got to run them too, and am still figuring out the routing. Also where is your second cat?
 
#4,010 ·
I searched the thread but couldnt find any info on this question.
Do i have to hook up the Park/neutral wire along with the speed sensor wires, or will just the speed sensor wires suffice for the computer seeing the vehicle moving?
Image
 
#4,011 ·
lilgreenjeepyj said:
Does the cat below the oil pan cause any temperature issues with the oil? I've got to run them too, and am still figuring out the routing. Also where is your second cat?
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Here is how I did my exhaust. I came off the driver side bank and routed the pipe similar to how the old 4.0 was around the front of the oil pan sump. I'll let the pics do the rest of the talking. It is 2.5" until it y's and 3" the rest of the way back. I did not do twice pipes because I don't like the sound, and I really didn't want to try and make it work.

Image


Image
 
#4,012 ·
pigfat said:
I searched the thread but couldnt find any info on this question.
Do i have to hook up the Park/neutral wire along with the speed sensor wires, or will just the speed sensor wires suffice for the computer seeing the vehicle moving?
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You need a VSS especially for a 4l60e (if thats you trans) If your a manual you can leave out the PNP switch but you still want a VSS.
 
#4,017 ·
pigfat said:
For all you guys running the TH400 behind your LS motor, what are you guys doing for the inspection cover between the engine and trans?
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I'm not running one, I have a crossmember running right through where one would bolt up.

You could make a stock one work with trimming of the front to clear the flywheel
 
#4,018 ·
I am running the 4L60e with a Lokar shifter. The stock GM shift position sensor was in the way of fitting the Lokar backup or neutral safety switch. I ended up with a manual backup light switch and no neutral safety switch. So far I have started it in gear three times, fortunately with no one in front of me. Is it possible to make one or both of them work with this combination?
 
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#4,020 · (Edited)
cj7ole said:
I am running the 4L60e with a Lokar shifter. The stock GM shift position sensor was in the way of fitting the Lokar backup or neutral safety switch. I ended up with a manual backup light switch and no neutral safety switch. So far I have started it in gear three times, fortunately with no one in front of me. Is it possible to make one or both of them work with this combination?
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The GM PNP just provides gear selector position to the PCM. The backup lights/ NSS is not routed through the PCM itself. But I have heard the lokar shifter will not work with it as you have stated.

Whats wrong with the Lokar switch used as a netual safety switch and keep the manual back up light?
 
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