Hey all you guys that are running the 5.3l chevy motors in your Jeeps, what trans and case are you all running?
5.3 Jeeps
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b_rine
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Not exactly sure what happened, but my tranny gave up the ghost yesterday while running Liberty (Penrose, Co.). Made it home about 40 or so miles in Limp Mode. No movement in reverse until I get the RPM's up to about 2000k.
So after the Bronco's game today I'll start getting the heep prepped for surgery.
Time to learn how to rebuild a tranny!!
So after the Bronco's game today I'll start getting the heep prepped for surgery.
Time to learn how to rebuild a tranny!!
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910 Posts
Guys I got a few questions. Got my C6 Corevette manifolds mocked up this weekend and removed the AC unit and Power Steering Pump pulled for my Hydro Assist to be dropped in its place. My question is motor mounts. The PO of my CJ5 dropped these in and I am pretty sure they are AA. Just need confirmation from a few gear heads. The motor in the CJ now is a small block 307. I have been told that there are adapter plates that can change the bolt pattern to help with the LS swap. Is this true? If so part number or link? Also does anyone know if the motor location for a chevy small block will work with the LS swap? I am hoping I do not have to move my drive train forward or aft with this conversion.
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5,254 Posts
Those look like AA universal SBC mounts. Just make you own adapters out of flat stock. That's all the adapters are any way. They adapt the 3 bolt SBC mounts to the four bolt Gen III/IV. Simple fab skills. Google LS1 adapter plates for drawings.
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910 Posts
Awesome! That seems easy enough. Does anyone know if my drive train will need to be moved forward or aft? My current motor mounts are welded into the frame for my Gen 1 Small Block conversion and when I go to drop this 5.3L. I'm hoping for as little hurdles as possible. Any info would be much appreciated.
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910 Posts
Thanks I'll keep my fingers crossed.
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64 Posts
Ok guys engine #2 going in after discovering cracked castech heads. Everything is set up for an 06 engine. I got my. New engine which i think is an 04 swapped over the fuel rail and injectors since i already knew they were clean but it wont start. Ive been through everything. I think the crank signal from the 04 is different from the 06. Does anyone have experience with this? Ive pm'ed wayne about programming options. Id like to search but my phone isnt letting me use the search bar.
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5,254 Posts
The 2006 truck motors were still 24x crank signal same as the 04.
Is it getting spark? Fuel injectors working? Has it had VATS disable yet? Is the motor grounded good? Start with the simple stuff.
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910 Posts
What is the advantage in this? Keeping the intake filter in the cab? Room for the radiator hose to cross to the drivers side for driver drop radiators? Just seems like a lot of trouble to do......what about drive by cable? How does that change?
Is everyone running a seperate fuse block to fuse each relay off of for torque converter and fuel pump and fan and brake light switch or just putting a fuse inbetween the hot wire to the battery and the relay? Just trying to make my wiring neat and not so cluttered.
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64 Posts
Yep. Weird thing is on occasion it will fire right up. Then i hit the gas a few time and the gas pedal stops responding. It idles til i cut it off and then wont restart.
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my 6.0 is going into my buggy and inorder to keep the "engine compartment" as small as possible and keep the radiator up front i am going to need to flip the manifold 180* so i have room for the air filter.
I have a relay for the fuel pump, the fan and my driving lights, each one is fused. Plus whatever relays are under the dash. Fuse block is the same one Wayne uses on his harness rebuilds and is a standard Buss block available from Advance Auto and others. Don't know if I needed to, but you can see that there is a 175 amp fuse between the battery and the fuse block. I copied this off a new Silverado. The hot from the alternator and the hot to the Jeep fuse block go the the new fuse block hot feed. I could probably use a few more relays, for main lights at least. The ground block is straight from the Home Depot electrical dept. I might upgrade it with one from a local marine store.
Here is the fuse block that came terminated from Wayne's harness rebuild (amazing craftsmanship by hummertech):
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1,567 Posts
I've run mine frontwards and backwards. It's on backwards now. Works just as well either way.
Do you have Wayne's fuse block with battery power constant 12v or switched power?I have a relay for the fuel pump, the fan and my driving lights, each one is fused. Plus whatever relays are under the dash. Fuse block is the same one Wayne uses on his harness rebuilds and is a standard Buss block available from Advance Auto and others. Don't know if I needed to, but you can see that there is a 175 amp fuse between the battery and the fuse block. I copied this off a new Silverado. The hot from the alternator and the hot to the Jeep fuse block go the the new fuse block hot feed. I could probably use a few more relays, for main lights at least. The ground block is straight from the Home Depot electrical dept. I might upgrade it with one from a local marine store.
![Image]()
Here is the fuse block that came terminated from Wayne's harness rebuild (amazing craftsmanship by hummertech):
![Image]()
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3,174 Posts
Should be switched power. I used the unused auto shut down relay from the Jeep power distribution block for switched power run to a relay.
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4,819 Posts
Mine is flipped. No room for a filter facing forward, and should get cleaner cooler air this way.
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