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#4,704 ·
Having a tps problem. Removed and tested tps with ohmmeter everything checks out. Im getting 0.6v on signal wire at closed throttle and 5.04 at wide open when installed but the total throttle position reading stays at 0% no matter what i do with the pedal according to my diagnostic reader and live data. Anyone had this issue? The ecm is supposed to have been tuned for Speed density by previous owner if thats of any help.
 
#4,705 ·
95limitedzj said:
Having a tps problem. Removed and tested tps with ohmmeter everything checks out. Im getting 0.6v on signal wire at closed throttle and 5.04 at wide open when installed but the total throttle position reading stays at 0% no matter what i do with the pedal according to my diagnostic reader and live data. Anyone had this issue? The ecm is supposed to have been tuned for Speed density by previous owner if thats of any help.
Click to expand...
Did you ohm the wires TB to ECM/PCM. Could be a broke wire not uncommon.
 
#4,706 · (Edited)
Question about Dbw pedals. I've got an 05 LQ9 pulled. I've read the 03-06 truck pedals with the metal mount will work. I've found some on eBay but they're listed with the correct part number but as model "a" and "e". Is there a meaning or difference with the letter designation.

Also going with an 07 4l80e, anyone have a clearance measurement between the factory pan and frame rails? I'm considering a deeper pan but but not sure if there's enough room.

Vehicle is a 2006 Jeep LJ.
 
#4,707 ·
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#4,710 ·
Finally finished reading all of this and it is a wealth of information I have several pages of notes but I have a few questions I'll take them one at a time.

My motor should be here next week 2002 5.3 out of a pickup drive by cable. I am looking right now for the Ford Contour dual cooling fans, my question is how does that wire in to the wiring harness and what kind of controller do I get to run it? I'm thinking I'm going to have Wayne do my harness and computer is that something he would do?

This will be going in 1983 cj7 that currently has AMC 360 with a DUI distributor. NP435/D300 transmission.

Are the starters the same for a manual transmission and an automatic or are they different. Is there one for a 4x4 applications that is waterproof like you could get for the old TBI 350?
 
#4,711 ·
Fordf150 said:
Finally finished reading all of this and it is a wealth of information I have several pages of notes but I have a few questions I'll take them one at a time.

My motor should be here next week 2002 5.3 out of a pickup drive by cable. I am looking right now for the Ford Contour dual cooling fans, my question is how does that wire in to the wiring harness and what kind of controller do I get to run it? I'm thinking I'm going to have Wayne do my harness and computer is that something he would do?

This will be going in 1983 cj7 that currently has AMC 360 with a DUI distributor. NP435/D300 transmission.

Are the starters the same for a manual transmission and an automatic or are they different. Is there one for a 4x4 applications that is waterproof like you could get for the old TBI 350?
Click to expand...
Wayne will stab out a wire to control the relay for the electric fan. He can set it to come on and turn off when ever you like.

Starters I have no clue.
 
#4,713 · (Edited)
I've been reading this thread for over a year and decided not only to join this forum, but to leap in and attempt this swap myself.

History; I bought the 2002 TJ for a girlfriend, but sent her back to her husband and kept the Jeep.....Decided it was fun to drive but lacked guts....investigated engine swaps and discovered Novak..then discovered I'd need to learn to weld if I expected to do the swap, so I spent the last year and a half buying and learning to use welding equipment while I searched for the ideal donor engine.

Here she is....2004 L59 out of a low mile Tahoe from Barber's recycling in Ardmore, Al....800 bucks plus 150 shipping, it showed up clean as new with complete harness and all acc.

So ok, here I go :), but before I start, I wanna thank all you here for all you have suffered and experienced and then posted.

I'm 60 years old...A tired/retired Navy old war veteran with a need for speed....And a need to share the grease and trials and beer and laffs and lessons learned with young guys like you....I respect all you know and all you do.

That said, forgive me later if I ask stupid questions :)

Edited to add......you can see the leg interference caused by the Harbor Freight hoist and Harbor Freight engine stand. Don't get me wrong, they both work really well, BUT they don't work well 'together' because they both have splayed legs.....My solution will be to cut and reweld the hoist legs square and straight before I swap the engine off the stand again.....I need to make the hoist taller too while I'm at it, so I'll just do it all at once.

That's the reason you see my trailer in the left side of the pic, I had to hitch it up to fetch engine.....My Harbor Freight hoist wouldn't go high enuff to lift the engine out of my pickup bed, so beware same before you come home with new engine in ved of your truck...What sucks is I had to cut the drop gate off my trailer so the forklift at the delivery depot could approach close enuff to drop engine in trailer....I picked up new barrel hinges and will weld them on the trailer gate in an unopposed fashion so it will be easy to remove ramp gate next time.

And another thing you need to know before you attempt to attach you new engine to your engine stand is, you will need 4 each 10mm x 1.5 mm X 3" 0r 4" long high strength bolts.....EVERYTHING on these engines is metric, even tho the bellhousing bolt centers are vintage Chevy, the bolts are metric.

It's little things like this that make engine swaps hard, so I'm sharing it now.
 

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#4,715 ·
I am finishing up my 5.3l swap. I am having an issue on start up and for about the first mintue of driving. It seems that the engine is droping at least one cylinder or more. At first I thought i though that it was just a clooged injector only. I cleaned the injectors and that fixed some of the issue. But now it seems that I am just dumping fuel and not firing for the first minute of driving and one of my cats is getting cherry red(was driving at night and saw shift linkage glowing, no shift boot installed yet). After the first mintue or so it runs perfect. any thoughts, advice??
 
#4,716 · (Edited)
Mudslingernick said:
I am finishing up my 5.3l swap. I am having an issue on start up and for about the first mintue of driving. It seems that the engine is droping at least one cylinder or more. At first I thought i though that it was just a clooged injector only. I cleaned the injectors and that fixed some of the issue. But now it seems that I am just dumping fuel and not firing for the first minute of driving and one of my cats is getting cherry red(was driving at night and saw shift linkage glowing, no shift boot installed yet). After the first mintue or so it runs perfect. any thoughts, advice??
Click to expand...
Since you know which cat was red, then you know which bank, so pull the plugs on that side and see which one is soaked in fuel.....But do it right after a short run time of maybe 10-20 seconds.

If that reveals a single wet plug, swap that injector with the one next to it and see if the problem moves with the injector...If so, buy new one.

You can do the same with the coils and wires if same plug remains wet.

edited to say...

Also check really close for any exhaust leak between the heads and the front o2 sensors...Look for broken exhaust manifold bolts at the rear of the head first and for black soot on the alum head around the manifold flanges...Exhaust leaks can seal up after a few minutes of run time, but cause your engine to run really rich and overheat a cat til it does.

My 'new' engine came with OEM exhaust manifolds bolted on, but on both sides the rear-most bolts are broken like almost every 5.3 of that era on the road...the heads show a little soot in that area, so while I've got the engine on the stand, I'll use my mig to weld a nut on the broken bolts and then replace them all with quality studs, and also replace the problematic factory intake gasket BEFORE I stuff it into my TJ.
 
#4,717 ·
TJKeith said:
Since you know which cat was red, then you know which bank, so pull the plugs on that side and see which one is soaked in fuel.....But do it right after a short run time of maybe 10-20 seconds.

If that reveals a single wet plug, swap that injector with the one next to it and see if the problem moves with the injector...If so, buy new one.

You can do the same with the coils and wires if same plug remains wet.

edited to say...

Also check really close for any exhaust leak between the heads and the front o2 sensors...Look for broken exhaust manifold bolts at the rear of the head first and for black soot on the alum head around the manifold flanges...Exhaust leaks can seal up after a few minutes of run time, but cause your engine to run really rich and overheat a cat til it does.

My 'new' engine came with OEM exhaust manifolds bolted on, but on both sides the rear-most bolts are broken like almost every 5.3 of that era on the road...the heads show a little soot in that area, so while I've got the engine on the stand, I'll use my mig to weld a nut on the broken bolts and then replace them all with quality studs, and also replace the problematic factory intake gasket BEFORE I stuff it into my TJ.
Click to expand...
Ok so I figured it out. After checking the plugs and switch the coils around with no changes I unplugged bank 2 up stream sensor. It started running better. I eventually switched the wires for bank 1and 2. It ran perfect for the hour or so i let it run and drove it around. the guy that did the harness labeled the connectors wrong.
 
#4,719 ·
Mass airflow help!

I am looking for a picture of the wire pigtail that plugs into the mass airflow sensor. I have a 2001 5.3. I was working on it and accidentally pulled the wires out of the plug and I do not know what order they go back in the plug. It is a 5 wire mass airflow sensor. Thanks
 
#4,720 ·
Valley cover gasket aftermarket FelPro part #?

I'm working over my 'new' used engine before I stuff it in the TJ.

It's a 2004 L59 5.3

I decided to replace the intake gaskets and knock sensors & sensor harness, oil pan gasket and rear main seal while engine is on the stand.

So far I've located and bought everything EXCEPT the valley cover gasket.....Can't seem to find a FelPro # for it unless I buy complete engine gasket set.

Already got all the others delivered, so a full set ain't an option.

Anyone have a part # besides the GM one?...I ain't driving 30 miles to the dealer if I can help it.

Thanks! :)
 
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