5.3 Jeeps

Gemner · May 6, 2014

Why J? said:
Shouldn't it run the coolest on the interstate? On the interstate is where I am seeing my highest temps.

depends. It seems like if you have an airflow problem then it runs coolest on the highway which is obvious, but then there are people who only have trouble on the highway and some people have reported that flow restrictors helped that which makes sense if the flow through the radiator is too high. Supposedly that is caused by water time in the radiator, but from a heat transfer standpoint that actually doesnt make sense, so I figure it might be a cavitation issue within the radiator. Who knows, really doesnt matter what the cause is if you can simply use a restrictor and not have any issues.

there would also be a speed on the highway where aerodynamics would dictate that the benefit of increased air over the radiator is outweighed by the load to go that speed. In a lifted with big tires Jeep that point probably isnt all that fast.

waynehartwig · May 6, 2014

Why J? said:
Since the temps have started to get warmer here I have noticed that my swap is running warmer than it did lat year. Last year it never got above 195 degrees. This year while going down the interstate 65-70 I have seen the guage get into the 210 mark, the faster I go the higher the temp gets, slow down and the temps drop. Idles right about 192 and 30-55MPH I'm seeing high 180's- low 190's.

I have a 5.3L, conversion rad that is 18x18x2.25", 16 psi cap with a 186 degree thermo. The motor had about 70,00 when I put it in and I put a new thermo in at that time.

Only changes I have made to the Jeep since last summer is I went from a 35' tire to a 37' tire.

I was thinking about throwing a 180 degree thermo in there. Any ideas?

Leave the thermostat alone. Why do people seem to think if your rig is overheating, or running hot, a cooler thermostat will make it better. FALSE!

Check the direction of your fan and make sure the rad hoses are plumbed right. Thermostat goes to the bottom hose on LS motors.

Why J? · May 6, 2014

waynehartwig said:
Leave the thermostat alone. Why do people seem to think if your rig is overheating, or running hot, a cooler thermostat will make it better. FALSE!

Check the direction of your fan and make sure the rad hoses are plumbed right. Thermostat goes to the bottom hose on LS motors.

I was thinking that the thermo wasn't fully opening. And thought I would put the 180 degree in while I was in there.

Stock mechanical fan, brand new ACDelco unit. Works perfectly.

Hoses are routed correctly.

Idle and stop and go is fine temp wise. Only temp increase is on the highway.

waynehartwig · May 6, 2014

Why J? said:
I was thinking that the thermo wasn't fully opening. And thought I would put the 180 degree in while I was in there.

Stock mechanical fan, brand new ACDelco unit. Works perfectly.

Hoses are routed correctly.

Idle and stop and go is fine temp wise. Only temp increase is on the highway.

It might just be the brick running down the road. My TJ is the same way. In town it runs about 185-190, but on the highway it's 205-210. Heaven forbid the fuse for the fan blow, because then it will go even higher.

If you suspect the thermostat, take it out and put it in a pot of water with a thermometer. Get it boiling and see what temperature the tstat opens.

Why J? · May 7, 2014

waynehartwig said:
It might just be the brick running down the road. My TJ is the same way. In town it runs about 185-190, but on the highway it's 205-210. Heaven forbid the fuse for the fan blow, because then it will go even higher.

If you suspect the thermostat, take it out and put it in a pot of water with a thermometer. Get it boiling and see what temperature the tstat opens.

Then most likely what I am experiencing is most likely normal and not an issue.

I am flushing my coolant as part of normal maintance this weekend I'll test the thermo while I have the system down.

Thanks for the advise.

AGTORG · May 7, 2014

Why J? said:
Then most likely what I am experiencing is most likely normal and not an issue.

I am flushing my coolant as part of normal maintance this weekend I'll test the thermo while I have the system down.

Thanks for the advise.

Just curious if your verifying the temps with the stock gauge? On mine while my stock gauge reads 210 the scan tool hooked up to the PCM reads 200.

chmo · May 7, 2014

Why J? said:
Shouldn't it run the coolest on the interstate? On the interstate is where I am seeing my highest temps.

since you (and most other TJ guys) have "only" a 18x18 radiator the cooling system does not have much capacity fo ... I learned that the front surface area is crucial.
(read this: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...or-tech-clearing-up-some-questions-core-effiecincy-aluminium-vs-brass-tech.html ... specially Ed. A Stevens posts)

Btw ... I am still fighting the same issues ... highway speeds around 210-215 ... with A/C on 215 and slowly climbing.

All with Scan tool!

SO my hoses need a review ... my waterpump (aftermarket Intex) is meanwhile 1.5 years old ... and recently I found a few drops of coolant at the bottom edge of my rad assembly (yes ... I need to refill the overflow bottle from time to time).

I need to solve that leaking problem first ... need to put some dye in there and check the WP as well. THEN I will review any flow problems (hoses) ... :smokin:

TMLoftis · May 7, 2014

What radiator are guys using with this swap?

waynehartwig · May 7, 2014

Why J? said:
Then most likely what I am experiencing is most likely normal and not an issue.

I am flushing my coolant as part of normal maintance this weekend I'll test the thermo while I have the system down.

Thanks for the advise.

Also, not sure if you do, but I have this big black/grey thing blocking most of my radiator called a winch

Why J? · May 7, 2014

waynehartwig said:
Also, not sure if you do, but I have this big black/grey thing blocking most of my radiator called a winch

I do have a winch. I just moved my solenoid pack out of the way to get more air flow.

Gemner · May 7, 2014

any of you with heat problems tried hood vents? Should allow more heat to escape when stopped/slow but also should allow a bit more air to flow through the radiator when at speed.

Why J? · May 7, 2014

chmo said:
since you (and most other TJ guys) have "only" a 18x18 radiator the cooling system does not have much capacity fo ... I learned that the front surface area is crucial.
(read this: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gene...or-tech-clearing-up-some-questions-core-effiecincy-aluminium-vs-brass-tech.html ... specially Ed. A Stevens posts)

Btw ... I am still fighting the same issues ... highway speeds around 210-215 ... with A/C on 215 and slowly climbing.

All with Scan tool!

SO my hoses need a review ... my waterpump (aftermarket Intex) is meanwhile 1.5 years old ... and recently I found a few drops of coolant at the bottom edge of my rad assembly (yes ... I need to refill the overflow bottle from time to time).

I need to solve that leaking problem first ... need to put some dye in there and check the WP as well. THEN I will review any flow problems (hoses) ... :smokin:

Thanks a great post. I suppose I should fab up a shroud.

Solidkm · May 7, 2014

very informative thread. Quick question on the NV4500 though...

I have the L33, and I am looking at a 2001 Dodge nv4500 locally. AA was telling me I have to switch to the GM input / retainer.

But i thought i can run a 6.0 flywheel and clutch to negate this. If i run a 6.0 flywheel and corresponding clutch components then i dont need a GM input right? only a bell housing?

Thanks

Solidkm · May 7, 2014

Nevermind... my bad.

In order to go to my L33 and my 23 spline atlas...

Run a GM 4500 and swap to the dodge 23 spline output and run a dodge tailhousing and that should bolt right to my 23 spline atlas wouldnt it?

does anyone one know if the 23 spline and 29 spline dodge version used the same 4wd tail housing?

thanks again

kmkommes · May 10, 2014

Here is the VIN of a 2006 LQ4 with a NV4500. 1GCHC24U16E218592 You can use it to search for all oem or aftermarket parts for the NV4500 swap behind a GEN3. I use GM Parts Giant often. Car-Part.com works with VIN also.

You'll have to verify crank length. That info is out there. Search or ask Bo. There are good threads on that.

This model year will have the internal slave. You can use parts from an older NV4500 if you wish. The bellhousing bolt pattern to engine is the same. GM did have 2 different bolt patterns for the bellhousing to trans. There is NO reason to use AA parts...

I believe the dodge 23 or 29 tailhousing is the same.

I also believe the dodge outputshaft and tailhousing is an inch or so shorter than GM. The NP241OR would be a nice case to run behind the 23 spline dodge.

I have a LY6 GEN4. My setup was an automatic with the short crank with the .4" spacer. I removed the spacer and ran a NV4500 from a 2003 GM.

Soldkm, you are on the right path.

You'll either have to swap the input shaft or the output shaft to run you're combo. All GM output are 32 spline. GM input is different than the Dodge.

TMLoftis · May 10, 2014

Would anyone happen to know what slave cylinder to use for a '93 nv4500 to a tj?

I read that the slave from a 4 cylinder 85 cj7 would bolt up to the bellhousing but it was way too small.

Bo185 · May 10, 2014

The L33 is the short crank flange. That motor with that VIN is a short crank flange so a flywheel will work with the L33. The long crank flange motors are getting rarer these days. They were used on the early 6.0L's with 4l80/NV4500 and 4.8L with the NV3500.

The GM NV4500 would work easiest I would think newer the better.

Solidkm · May 10, 2014

kmkommes said:
Here is the VIN of a 2006 LQ4 with a NV4500. 1GCHC24U16E218592 You can use it to search for all oem or aftermarket parts for the NV4500 swap behind a GEN3. I use GM Parts Giant often. Car-Part.com works with VIN also.

You'll have to verify crank length. That info is out there. Search or ask Bo. There are good threads on that.

This model year will have the internal slave. You can use parts from an older NV4500 if you wish. The bellhousing bolt pattern to engine is the same. GM did have 2 different bolt patterns for the bellhousing to trans. There is NO reason to use AA parts...

I believe the dodge 23 or 29 tailhousing is the same.

I also believe the dodge outputshaft and tailhousing is an inch or so shorter than GM. The NP241OR would be a nice case to run behind the 23 spline dodge.

I have a LY6 GEN4. My setup was an automatic with the short crank with the .4" spacer. I removed the spacer and ran a NV4500 from a 2003 GM.

Soldkm, you are on the right path.

You'll either have to swap the input shaft or the output shaft to run you're combo. All GM output are 32 spline. GM input is different than the Dodge.

Thank you for posting you VIN, etc. I found it from you on an earlier post and I spent some serious time on GMpartsgiant. I ordered everything that I could think of. I got the sachs flywheel for the 6.0 and all 6.0 clutch parts. as far as i can tell the 6.0 i looked up had an internal slave, right?

I've got a GM 4500 and bell in the works, and I ordered the dodge tail and 23 spline output. AS FAR AS IM TRACKING... im not needing anything else to go L33 to 4500 and 4500 to my atlas.

241OR would be real nice. I couldnt find one, and some asshole locally laughed at me when i offered him 850 for the one i did find. Then I looked at 300s, and I just said a 300 done right is in atlas price range.. and I grabbed a used atlas before I set my mind to the 5.3.

Bo185 said:
The L33 is the short crank flange. That motor with that VIN is a short crank flange so a flywheel will work with the L33. The long crank flange motors are getting rarer these days. They were used on the early 6.0L's with 4l80/NV4500 and 4.8L with the NV3500.

The GM NV4500 would work easiest I would think newer the better.

which flywheel? i got the sachs 1050, dont tell me I fucked up!?

thanks guys

Solidkm · May 10, 2014

Im overseas right now, so I cant just go measure....

For the aftermarket gauges you guys are getting the 3 3/8" and the 2 5/8"s or the 2 1/8"?

I will be running a 2005 LJ and 2005 L33; for the fuel gauge the best bet is to just go mechanical and put a float in the tank?

Bo185 · May 10, 2014

Solid the sach's will work.

5.3 Jeeps

Gemner

waynehartwig

Why J?

waynehartwig

Why J?

AGTORG

chmo

TMLoftis

waynehartwig

Why J?

Gemner

Why J?

Solidkm

Solidkm

kmkommes

TMLoftis

Bo185

Solidkm

Solidkm

Bo185

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