5.3 Jeeps

aloharover · Sep 21, 2014

Gemner said:
Got a picture? My ground cable didnt have anything else on it besides the side terminal at the battery and a ring terminal at the other end

waynehartwig said:
Battery/Generator Module.

Sorry, posted question than took off to Moab

Here are the photos.

Does this have to be on the negative cable?

Gemner · Sep 22, 2014

jimhat said:
My rig acts crazy when cruising no matter the speed.

After the trans has shifted through all gears and im just cruising and just push the gas pedal to gain a small amount of speed or pull a hill it seams to studder. The rig shakes like crazy

But if i give it a bit more gas so it kicks down a gear the it does fine and shits and gets

It sounds like your TC is staying locked at too low speed or too much throttle. Having the TC locked at low speed can have the same effect as in a manual trans car at low speed and high gear...bucking/shaking. The TC should probably not ever stay engaged over 50% throttle in either 2nd or 3rd gear.

aloharover said:
Sorry, posted question than took off to Moab

Here are the photos.

Does this have to be on the negative cable?

At first I thought mine didnt have that, but now that I think about it my ground may have been cut off from that. Either way, I dont have one. If you read 2004 Vortec PCM Pinouts pin 15 on the green connector says: Charge Indicator Control (MODELS WITH GENERATOR BATTERY CONTROL MODULE, REWIRE ALTERNATOR BROWN WIRE TO THIS PIN TO REMOVE GBCM)

aloharover · Sep 23, 2014

So I have my harness almost complete.
I snipped all the wires at the PCM that are not needed. My Green 15 has a rubber plug and I will just remove the brown wire from the alternator plug/GBCM to go into this hole.

I signed up for alldata for my vehicle.
All of the wiring diagrams and connector charts refer to a Circuit Number, is there a master list of these somewhere?

A number of wires from the transmission Range Switch go to the connectors, not the PCM. Some are obvious, Pin 11 and 12 go to 12v. Pin 1, 9, and 10 I am not sure where they go. They are identified as Circuit Nos 1433-Clutch Start Switch, 275- Park Neutral Position Switch, and 1524-Back Up lamp Supply Voltage. A master chart of all circuit numbers would help me id the 'other end'

Thanks
Pete

Whisky City TJ · Sep 23, 2014

Quick question maybe you guys can help me with. I finally pulled the motor from my donor vehicle, 2002 tahoe. I took engine, trans, xfer case, all accessories, as much of all of the wiring harnesses as I could unplug, ecm, entire fuse block, y pipe, some of the fuel lines, ac lines and all of the hoses. Question is what else do I need to pull from it? Do I need to grab the wiring that runs thru the firewall and the one that runs under the body and along the frame? I tried to get them but having a hard time figuring out how to get them. If needed, can I lop them off at the firewall? Thought maybe if for nothing else just for the connectors.

Thanks for any input. Tons of excellent info on here, just a lot to sort thru. Im still collecting parts and pieces right now but hope to have the bulk of if in the next couple of months

Bo185 · Sep 23, 2014

Whisky City TJ said:
Quick question maybe you guys can help me with. I finally pulled the motor from my donor vehicle, 2002 tahoe. I took engine, trans, xfer case, all accessories, as much of all of the wiring harnesses as I could unplug, ecm, entire fuse block, y pipe, some of the fuel lines, ac lines and all of the hoses. Question is what else do I need to pull from it? Do I need to grab the wiring that runs thru the firewall and the one that runs under the body and along the frame? I tried to get them but having a hard time figuring out how to get them. If needed, can I lop them off at the firewall? Thought maybe if for nothing else just for the connectors.

Thanks for any input. Tons of excellent info on here, just a lot to sort thru. Im still collecting parts and pieces right now but hope to have the bulk of if in the next couple of months

All you need is the engine harness. It will have the tran harness included in it. It will unplug from the large fuse box under the unhood, Then unplug it at the trans lay it on motor and remove motor then finish unplugging and removing. Also you will have to fish the MAF plug out and around the pass. side. And unplug the coolant level senor in the plastic fill tank. It pretty easy to remove the harness but you don't need any of the body harness.

Is it at a yard or you own the donor? If its at a yard stag the CATS as those are worth money to recycle if they don't charge you.

Assuming its DBC. Also I would get the cruise control box as well. If you need a CC.
Is it DBC or DBW? Some SUV's were DBW that early. If DBW you will need the TAC and pedal assy. Also get the TAC to pedal stub hanress if it has one. Some had this included in the body harness, so its not a separate wire sometimes. No biggie you can just get one later.

Snag the the powersteering cooler as well.

aloharover · Sep 23, 2014

i would also grab the wire bundle that runs from near the fuse box, along the frame to the transfercase, JIC

You may not need it, but I figured better safe than sorry when I pulled all of mine.

Whisky City TJ said:
Quick question maybe you guys can help me with. I finally pulled the motor from my donor vehicle, 2002 tahoe. I took engine, trans, xfer case, all accessories, as much of all of the wiring harnesses as I could unplug, ecm, entire fuse block, y pipe, some of the fuel lines, ac lines and all of the hoses. Question is what else do I need to pull from it? Do I need to grab the wiring that runs thru the firewall and the one that runs under the body and along the frame? I tried to get them but having a hard time figuring out how to get them. If needed, can I lop them off at the firewall? Thought maybe if for nothing else just for the connectors.

Thanks for any input. Tons of excellent info on here, just a lot to sort thru. Im still collecting parts and pieces right now but hope to have the bulk of if in the next couple of months

Bo185 said:
All you need is the engine harness. It will have the tran harness included in it. It will unplug from the large fuse box under the unhood, Then unplug it at the trans lay it on motor and remove motor then finish unplugging and removing. Also you will have to fish the MAF plug out and around the pass. side. And unplug the coolant level senor in the plastic fill tank. It pretty easy to remove the harness but you don't need any of the body harness.

Is it at a yard or you own the donor? If its at a yard stag the CATS as those are worth money to recycle if they don't charge you.

Assuming its DBC. Also I would get the cruise control box as well. If you need a CC.
Is it DBC or DBW? If DBW you will need the TAC and pedal assy. Also get the TAC to pedal stub hanress if it has one. Some had this included in the body harness, so its not a separate wire sometimes. No biggie you can just get one later.

Snag the the powersteering cooler as well.

Gemner · Sep 23, 2014

aloharover said:
I signed up for alldata for my vehicle.
All of the wiring diagrams and connector charts refer to a Circuit Number, is there a master list of these somewhere?

A number of wires from the transmission Range Switch go to the connectors, not the PCM. Some are obvious, Pin 11 and 12 go to 12v. Pin 1, 9, and 10 I am not sure where they go. They are identified as Circuit Nos 1433-Clutch Start Switch, 275- Park Neutral Position Switch, and 1524-Back Up lamp Supply Voltage. A master chart of all circuit numbers would help me id the 'other end'

google is your friend for those. For the most part, those run to relays and switches that either enable or disable things like the starter relay, backup light relay, etc. The one plug on the trans with 4 wires all run to the PCM. The other plug you only NEED to wire the ground. You can choose to run the other wires for your install if you want. I used mine to run the reverse lights also, for obvious reasons.

shopteach · Sep 24, 2014

I am working on an 05 GTO LS2 4L60E in an 05 LJ. Wayne did the tune, I did the harness. I tried to combine the LS harness with the Jeep harness to look as factory stock as possible. Here is my dilemma, it will start and idle fine. It will free rev fine and sounds good. it will idle in gear in and out of the shop. The problem is under any load at all, it acts like it is running on 2 cylinders and shakes like hell. No power at all. No codes other than U0101 "lost communication with TCM." Any ideas?
Thanks in advance for any input

Gemner · Sep 24, 2014

did you check the TCM connection? Including power, ground, etc? If the TCM isnt working or isnt connected, you should be able to rev the engine fine. You would also shift into and out of gear fine since thats mechanical, but you wouldnt get any response to being in gear. Possibly the PCM poops its pants when it sees that it is in gear but doesnt have TCM feedback

shopteach · Sep 24, 2014

As far as the connection goes, alldata and the fsm have a different pinout so I cannot verify. I tried running it with the TCM unplugged and the conditions are exactly the same
I'm thinking the drivability issue is not likely a TCM issue. Thoughts?

Bo185 · Sep 24, 2014

Obviously its going in limp mode when you try to drive it hence the lost of comm. What is the TCM out of the donor? Or a different one. It needs to be compatible with the E40 ECM you have.

shopteach · Sep 24, 2014

All of the components were from the same GTO. Engine, trans, all wiring, ECM and TCM.

Whisky City TJ · Sep 24, 2014

Bo185 said:
All you need is the engine harness. It will have the tran harness included in it. It will unplug from the large fuse box under the unhood, Then unplug it at the trans lay it on motor and remove motor then finish unplugging and removing. Also you will have to fish the MAF plug out and around the pass. side. And unplug the coolant level senor in the plastic fill tank. It pretty easy to remove the harness but you don't need any of the body harness.

Is it at a yard or you own the donor? If its at a yard stag the CATS as those are worth money to recycle if they don't charge you.

Assuming its DBC. Also I would get the cruise control box as well. If you need a CC.
Is it DBC or DBW? Some SUV's were DBW that early. If DBW you will need the TAC and pedal assy. Also get the TAC to pedal stub hanress if it has one. Some had this included in the body harness, so its not a separate wire sometimes. No biggie you can just get one later.

Snag the the powersteering cooler as well.

Pretty much grabbed all of that stuff. If it unbolted or came off easily, then i took it. The Tahoe is sitting in my driveway for now. Getting tired of looking at it so it needs to go away soon. Already pulled the entire y pipe, so got the cats. It is DBC and I think I got the cruise box. Small black box on the upper drivers side firewall, had a cable that ran to the throttle body. Didnt think about the power steering cooler, but ill take it too.

aloharover said:
i would also grab the wire bundle that runs from near the fuse box, along the frame to the transfercase, JIC
You may not need it, but I figured better safe than sorry when I pulled all of mine.

That wire bundle was being a PITA so I gave up on it, might go back in one last time to see if I can get it.

Thanks guys for the input, sounds like I got most everything I needed then. Now does anyone need a nice, lightly rolled 02 Tahoe with no drive train and most everything under the hood gone, lol?

waynehartwig · Sep 25, 2014

shopteach said:
I am working on an 05 GTO LS2 4L60E in an 05 LJ. Wayne did the tune, I did the harness. I tried to combine the LS harness with the Jeep harness to look as factory stock as possible. Here is my dilemma, it will start and idle fine. It will free rev fine and sounds good. it will idle in gear in and out of the shop. The problem is under any load at all, it acts like it is running on 2 cylinders and shakes like hell. No power at all. No codes other than U0101 "lost communication with TCM." Any ideas?
Thanks in advance for any input

You have an issue with the harness. Fix the TCM com error and you will probably be golden

aloharover · Sep 27, 2014

For a 2007 harness, blue 20 and green 57 are bat 12v. Ble 19 is igntion on. Green 75 is crank.

I run a battery cut off switch. They way my fuse box is set up, hit the switch all power is gone. Do I need to have the 20 and 57 bypass this, or is it ok to totally shut off all power going to the PCM?

Gemner · Sep 27, 2014

aloharover said:
For a 2007 harness, blue 20 and green 57 are bat 12v. Ble 19 is igntion on. Green 75 is crank.

I run a battery cut off switch. They way my fuse box is set up, hit the switch all power is gone. Do I need to have the 20 and 57 bypass this, or is it ok to totally shut off all power going to the PCM?

The only thing that's a problem for is learning, which if the tune is right shouldn't be a problem. It will be like starting it up the first time the computer comes back from a flash, every time.

80 Yota Crawler · Sep 27, 2014

So I've ran my tj with this conversion since spring. Let me say it took a lot of coin and hard work to get it done, but it is a shit ton of fun to drive. Well worth it.

To my question, the only code I've gotten that I haven't gotten fixed yet is a code about the CEL. Wayne's guy did my harness (awesome work btw). I wanted the CEL to be on my dash, so I wired from where he had it set up on the harness to my dash. Now the CEL just stays on all the time and it throws this code.

P0650 - malfunction indicator lamp control circuit malfunction

Any ideas?

Why J? · Sep 27, 2014

80 Yota Crawler said:
So I've ran my tj with this conversion since spring. Let me say it took a lot of coin and hard work to get it done, but it is a shit ton of fun to drive. Well worth it.

To my question, the only code I've gotten that I haven't gotten fixed yet is a code about the CEL. Wayne's guy did my harness (awesome work btw). I wanted the CEL to be on my dash, so I wired from where he had it set up on the harness to my dash. Now the CEL just stays on all the time and it throws this code.

P0650 - malfunction indicator lamp control circuit malfunction

Any ideas?

I believe that the GM ECU grounds the CEL and Jeep gives it 12v? Or the other way around. Anyhow, yours is wrong and needs to be rewired.

aloharover · Sep 27, 2014

Gemner said:
The only thing that's a problem for is learning, which if the tune is right shouldn't be a problem. It will be like starting it up the first time the computer comes back from a flash, every time.

Sounds like the best idea would be to have those two lines on a separate separate always hot fuse. Same way I am doing the always hot to the stereo. N big deal.

Funny the litte things that pop up as you are doing the swap.

For your entertainment, 5.3l, 4L60, NP241 going in to a 1970 Land Rover

Gemner · Sep 28, 2014

Why J? said:
I believe that the GM ECU grounds the CEL and Jeep gives it 12v? Or the other way around. Anyhow, yours is wrong and needs to be rewired.

On my 96, the jeep computer grounds the circuit. My GM computer did not have the check engine light enabled for a CEL circuit code, so it would set a code but no light. Not sure if that's normal or not. Sounds to me like either the bulb socket is grounded, the wire to pcm is short circuited to ground, or the wire to the pcm tapped into the jeep harness instead of cutting out the jeep pcm.

Yoga, when you connected the wire what did you do?

5.3 Jeeps

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