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Project: Dookey's revenge!

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Discussion starter · #4,723 ·
Tonight I got the passenger head back in place. That's quite a bit of work. I started by cleaning the block. Used a sanding block and 600 grit sandpaper with WD40 and it took care of the existing gasket. Worked really well too without removing much aluminum. That was pretty time consuming.

Then I cleaned out the bolt holes. Shaved down one of the old bolts like I read about and cleaned them out. Then vacuumed and blew them out with a straw and compressed air. Once I was happy we got to work.

Block clean.

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New gasket in place to check for irregularities. Everything matched up to the old gasket well.

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And final torqued. I used ARP head bolts and ARP ultra torque then stepped them down in 3 stages like the instructions said to do.

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Pretty simple process. Nothing really seemed out of the ordinary going back together. :)
 
#4,725 ·
You gonna put it all back together before you update radiator and etc? ie do one thing at a time
 
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Discussion starter · #4,727 ·
Today I got the top end buttoned back up. Pretty straight forward with no hiccups. I thought it was funny the head gaskets had a born on date. The passenger head was 10.10.15.

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I do this same thing to my nose this time of year.

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Top end back together and torqued to spec with all new gaskets.

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#4,729 ·
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Discussion starter · #4,732 ·
Today I started on mock up for the new Griffin radiator. I'm very happy with how it fits. Cooling wasn't the only reason I wanted a new radiator. The old Griffin radiator I had was Driver top out. So the radiator hose ran all the way across the top and the radiator hose was stupid close to the alternator pulley. So this will clean up that potential problem.

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Nice and easy routing for both in and out hoses since it is dual pass. Something I didn't think about until today... when you have a dual pass radiator it should bleed all the air out of the system up to the radiator cap before fluid goes through the second stage of the radiator. Which should help keep air from being reintroduced into the motor.

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I also found my original side skirts. They fit back in place and sit up against the radiator which should help direct air from outside instead of inside the engine bay.

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Moving the radiator forward towards the grill should help in getting air out of the engine bay too.

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Discussion starter · #4,733 ·
Curiosity got the best of me so I bought a strip of aluminum and made up four simple tabs to hold the fan to the radiator. I put it up in place and what I found was awesome. This was definitely not possible with the last setup. :bounce2:

 
#4,734 ·
Discussion starter · #4,737 ·
matts88yj said:
I'm curious to see how your lower radiator hose turns out since it's roughly the same distance from thermostat port to radiator port as my setup.
Click to expand...
I'm thinking the thermostat housing may change. The lower port on my radiator is larger than the thermostat housing. So you have to really crank down on the hose clamp because you're running a larger hose for the radiator. Would be nice to have them both the same size.
 
#4,738 ·
Dookey said:
I'm thinking the thermostat housing may change. The lower port on my radiator is larger than the thermostat housing. So you have to really crank down on the hose clamp because you're running a larger hose for the radiator. Would be nice to have them both the same size.
Click to expand...
Couldn't you have just ordered the radiator that way? I thought you had said Griffin was building it for you. Would have been easy for them to just weld in a different sized port.
 
#4,740 ·
Dookey said:
I'm thinking the thermostat housing may change. The lower port on my radiator is larger than the thermostat housing. So you have to really crank down on the hose clamp because you're running a larger hose for the radiator. Would be nice to have them both the same size.
Click to expand...
Did you go with the 1.5" inlet on the top and 1.75" outlet on the bottom?
 
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