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Is it getting power while cranking? Sometimes stuff'll just show the last data points when it loses communication, so it looks like it's still on on the laptop, but it really isn't.
Then one further, coils getting power in start and run?

My microsquirt was having troubles when the EDIS module was plugged into the wrong polarity port, but you've got 3 wire sensors, so there's really only the one "sensor" wire.
 
Discussion starter · #382 ·
For the love of... Well. Figured it out after a good amount of head scratching. And I hope anybody who has this issue with the ignition conversion on a 8.1l will find this post as it seems to be a common issue that most just give up on

The wires on the cam and crank sensors and reversed as to what we need. So, on the MSD harness pigtails, leave the brown wires where they are. Those are the grounds. Leave them be. They are in the correct location. Snip the signal and voltage wires and swap them around on the pig tails. Thats it. She fires up on the first crank :)

https://youtu.be/RzSKOg4RmdY
 
Discussion starter · #384 ·
I saw that svx in the background in your first post hahaha. Awesome build!
*chuckles* Ahh. My beloved SVX. I have a couple of them. Ones a daily driver, the other has been sitting for way too long. Its been patiently awaiting some garage space. I honestly didnt think this build would've taken so long.. The svx has inverted tarmac coilovers, STI knuckles and brakes and a seam welded chassis. Once big ugly is rolling, its going back under the knife. Rollcage, wide body and new drivetrain. It will be my little hillclimb monster :smokin:
 
For the love of... Well. Figured it out after a good amount of head scratching. And I hope anybody who has this issue with the ignition conversion on a 8.1l will find this post as it seems to be a common issue that most just give up on

The wires on the cam and crank sensors and reversed as to what we need. So, on the MSD harness pigtails, leave the brown wires where they are. Those are the grounds. Leave them be. They are in the correct location. Snip the signal and voltage wires and swap them around on the pig tails. Thats it. She fires up on the first crank :)

https://youtu.be/RzSKOg4RmdY
So bitchin... I dig that digital dash. :D
 
Discussion starter · #387 ·
If I remember right last we talked one of them was getting a corvette drivetrain and engine swap. ;)
That was indeed the plan. But, as they tend to do, plans change. To set the corvette drivetrain back far enough to make for properly balancing the car, it would leave a rather cramped footwell. The more I plot and plan, the more I realize that im going to be doing hillclimb events, autocross and tarmac rally more than high speed track events. AWD is a huge benefit in lower speed tracks. So, I see wrecked STI's for sale every now and again. Hell, even a used STI is cheaper than a corvette drivetrain. The plan is to swap out a STI engine and trans into the svx. Its 75lbs lighter than the eg33 with less problems with oil surging and coolant hotspots in the heads. Better for high-g cornering. I just need to shed some more weight out of the chassis. Its a heavy piggy.

So bitchin... I dig that digital dash. :D

Pirate should have a rule, that if you didn't build it, you aren't allowed to post it.
I like the dash as well :) It looks clean and easy to read. I dig your siggy. But that would leave the booty fab thread all kinds of quiet. Unless the poster likes the abuse!
 
That was indeed the plan. But, as they tend to do, plans change. To set the corvette drivetrain back far enough to make for properly balancing the car, it would leave a rather cramped footwell. The more I plot and plan, the more I realize that im going to be doing hillclimb events, autocross and tarmac rally more than high speed track events. AWD is a huge benefit in lower speed tracks. So, I see wrecked STI's for sale every now and again. Hell, even a used STI is cheaper than a corvette drivetrain. The plan is to swap out a STI engine and trans into the svx. Its 75lbs lighter than the eg33 with less problems with oil surging and coolant hotspots in the heads. Better for high-g cornering. I just need to shed some more weight out of the chassis. Its a heavy piggy.
Oh yeah it is, I'm planning to boost my svx and add some lightness where I can, aluminum parts, carbon fiber panels, rear seat delete, maybe remove some sound deadening.
 
Discussion starter · #391 ·
Oh yeah it is, I'm planning to boost my svx and add some lightness where I can, aluminum parts, carbon fiber panels, rear seat delete, maybe remove some sound deadening.
On the SVXnetwork, I actually weighed all the glass on the car. *I have spares as they are so rare* They dont weight much. I think like 40ish lbs total. So if you're looking to save weight, speed glass is not a good investment in this case. It would only save 15 lbs. To have them made would be $1600. Yes, I looked into it quite a bit :)
The rear seat weighs 8lbs. Its just foam. The drivers seat is 80 G-D lbs. Electric motors and a thick frame. You want to shed weight, swap the seats and frames. Find some sideview mirrors from a LS. 1lb lighter each compared to a lsi. . Swap in the steering column from a impreza. 15lbs lighter. Bunch of stuff you can do. Like swapping in a 5-mt. 100lb savings. But that will make you nose heavy as hell.
Have fun with your SVX :D


Glad to see you got it running. Love the laughter in the background!
Congrats!!

And I'm glad to know I'm not the only one who laughs like that when a project finally works out! :bert:

Sam
I was getting frustrated as hell with the wiring harness and the MSD system. That elated laugh was pure as it could be. I honestly didn't expect it to fire up, let alone that damn quickly :smokin:

Now its time to fabricate exhaust tube off the headers. Weeeee!
 
On the SVXnetwork, I actually weighed all the glass on the car. *I have spares as they are so rare* They dont weight much. I think like 40ish lbs total. So if you're looking to save weight, speed glass is not a good investment in this case. It would only save 15 lbs. To have them made would be $1600. Yes, I looked into it quite a bit :)
The rear seat weighs 8lbs. Its just foam. The drivers seat is 80 G-D lbs. Electric motors and a thick frame. You want to shed weight, swap the seats and frames. Find some sideview mirrors from a LS. 1lb lighter each compared to a lsi. . Swap in the steering column from a impreza. 15lbs lighter. Bunch of stuff you can do. Like swapping in a 5-mt. 100lb savings. But that will make you nose heavy as hell.
Have fun with your SVX :D
I actually picked up a spare car for parts/glass as well. My svx is an LS luckily, no sun roof, manual seats, standard mirrors. Next job would be swapping out the automatic harness for a regular manual harness. And I have already swapped out the automatic for a 5spd from an 05 legacy GT, She definitely scooted along pretty good after that engine I bought from you and the manual swap.
 
So I know you want blower numbers ;)

The whipple 2.9L with a 3.375" pulley makes 8.5lbs of boost and made 590hp / 695ft-lbs at the crank.

Engine specs: 8.1L stroked to 540cid with the 4.75 stroke forged rotating assembly. 202 camshaft, stock iron cylinder heads and jba mid length headers.

Image


Rear wheel numbers on a Mustang dyno:
Stock: 220/303
540 / 202 cam: 278/393
540 / 202 cam / whipple 8.5lbs: 400/468

Its important to note that with the exception of a rotating assembly that can handle the power, a very small cam and headers, this engine is otherwise stock. The 202 cam on the 540cid is so small that it sounds stock / drives like a bone stock offering from GM.

Important things to note:
The 3.375 pulley / 8.5lbs of boost maxes out the stock computer MAF tables. To run more boost (the 2.5" pulley should make somewhere between 11-13lbs of boost) you'll need to scale the computer values back after installing a 2 bar MAP sensor.

Videos of cool whirring noises on the dyno coming soon!

SMC - yours will make even more (more cam, better heads, etc) but I figured I would give you a jumping off point of what to expect from the upcoming blower kit - if youre still going to do it.
 
Discussion starter · #398 · (Edited)
So I know you want blower numbers ;)
Myself and a good deal of others, im certain!

Those are some impressive numbers over stock! Considering you can pick up good used whipple superchargers for rather cheap, its a no-brainer for a significant boost in engine output!

Larry said that the stock crank is good for around 500 hp before is becomes a liability. To me, HP ratings dont stand for much outside of a general area or reliability. Torque seems to kill cranks faster than HP. That being said, would the stock crank survive exceeding 500 hp with a proper tune and not hitting the 1/4 mile? (my truck maxes out at 80mph.. no point in drag racing it.)


Im definitely going to run a blower on this engine. I was really wanting to run a roots 8/71 or 10/71 on her with that manifold you sold me. But there are issues associated with that. Mainly the crank pulley. The 8.1l is a bit 'unique' in that department. I would need to install a custom double keyed crank pulley and have an additional keyway machined into your stroker crank.
Recently, I found that a couple companies are making a carburetor adapter for the whipple blowers. Im thinking that would be the best route to go simply due to the ease of install.


When I get this beast out of the garage and on the road, I'll weld up the prototype manifold and get a whirly-gig bolted up.
 
Larry said that the stock crank is good for around 500 hp before is becomes a liability. To me, HP ratings dont stand for much outside of a general area or reliability. Torque seems to kill cranks faster than HP. That being said, would the stock crank survive exceeding 500 hp with a proper tune and not hitting the 1/4 mile? (my truck maxes out at 80mph.. no point in drag racing it.)
The stock pistons are good (provided you're not one of the unlucky ones) till about 525hp. The stock connecting rods start to give up around 600+hp and the stock cast crank usually snaps off at the snout around 625hp. A few early 496HO engines came from Mercruiser with a steel crankshaft which will handle 700hp, but they're incredibly rare. I'd go with a forged 4.5 or 4.75 stroke and not worry about it - extra cubes never hurt!

Dyno video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zTDnr0wj3UU
 
So I know you want blower numbers ;)

The whipple 2.9L with a 3.375" pulley makes 8.5lbs of boost and made 590hp / 695ft-lbs at the crank.

Engine specs: 8.1L stroked to 540cid with the 4.75 stroke forged rotating assembly. 202 camshaft, stock iron cylinder heads and jba mid length headers.

Image


Rear wheel numbers on a Mustang dyno:
Stock: 220/303
540 / 202 cam: 278/393
540 / 202 cam / whipple 8.5lbs: 400/468

Its important to note that with the exception of a rotating assembly that can handle the power, a very small cam and headers, this engine is otherwise stock. The 202 cam on the 540cid is so small that it sounds stock / drives like a bone stock offering from GM.

Important things to note:
The 3.375 pulley / 8.5lbs of boost maxes out the stock computer MAF tables. To run more boost (the 2.5" pulley should make somewhere between 11-13lbs of boost) you'll need to scale the computer values back after installing a 2 bar MAP sensor.

Videos of cool whirring noises on the dyno coming soon!

SMC - yours will make even more (more cam, better heads, etc) but I figured I would give you a jumping off point of what to expect from the upcoming blower kit - if youre still going to do it.
Those are some impressive numbers!!! I might have to think about some of this with my new build with an 8.1 down the road after I get it rocking :smokin:
 
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