Speedi Sleeve for rear spindle: SKF part number is 99266. NAPA part number is NOS99266, cost is $47.32.

Here is what the install tool looks like:

Take a drill bit or air tool and breech the middle of the sleeve and open it up. Take the supplied install tool and these items to open it up some after the breeching.

Modified speedi sleeve install tool. I used a punch laid inside the modified tool and a hammered to smooth in the rough edges to protect the spindle.

I used a length of pipe to bang on the tool to install the sleeve. This is the pipe section I used, had it lying around.

Took a 2x4 and helped finish seating it with the tool. Stop looking at my welds.

Here it is installed. I have left the flange installed so far.

Installed micrometer specs, 2.728:

My spindle was 2.667 according to the micrometer where the seal runs. Seal ID is 2.6880. We'll see how it works. This is the best fit I could find in a repair sleeve.

See BillaVista doing it too: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/SpeediSleeve/index.html

 

Front Dana 44hd axle

Dana 44 shafts, 30 spline:

Short side inner axle: 18 1/4" from center of joint to end
Long side inner axle: 35 1/2" from center of joint to end

Outer stub alxes converted to 1978 chevy 19 spline outers and internal chevy hub, bearings and spindle.

Need balljoints, same as any Dana 44.

Need a diff cover? Same as any other 44.

High steer arms....same as any Dana 44. I needed a small spacer.

You will need to cut and turn the front axle. Stock the IH truck axles had little if any caster built into them UNDER AN IH TRUCK.

On MY Scout II with extended shackles they had 1 to 2 degrees. I cut and turned them for more.

ALL CHEVY BRAKE PARTS USED ARE FOR 1978 CHEVY 3/4 TON 4X4. IF I SAY BRAKE PARTS, FRONT OR REAR, ITS FOR A 1978 CHEVY 3/4 TON 4X4. This is the part number. Dana 60 Chevy rotors do not work in my contemplated conversion. They are too thick and the centers are NOT as large in diameter on as the 3/4 ton chevy rotors. Sounds weird, but its true on the rotors I used.

This the rotor I used front and rear:

Autozone Duralast part number 5523

Swapping to internal chevy lock outs are easy. You need a 3/4 ton chevy hubs, lockouts, chevy spindle, chevy stub axles (they are 19 spline) (better to get the stub axles with two allowances/locations for snap rings.)

Options are to use the IH truck spindle as a template for drilling the chevy spindle to match (two holes line up so you can bolt them together and drill them to match.) and bolt the chevy spindle to the IH truck outer C or if you have flat top chevy knuckles or ford or whatever custom thing is out.

Now you bolt the chevy modified spindle to the IH truck outer C. Use the Chevy stub axle and a u-joint to tie into the stock inner shafts, use chevy 3/4 ton brake brackets and calipers and rotor. Just bolt the stuff on chevy from the spindle up and out. If you have chevy outer C's, bolt them onto the inner C of the IH Truck axle and swap the stub axle and now you can replace parts easily and with common chevy stuff.

This is rough and will be edited with pics.

 

Don't disregard the bearings from Japan. Some of the best bearings in the world come from Japan. Its china/tiawan that's trouble.

Carry on. . . .

 

So far so good. This will be in the FAQ for sure.

 

Rear 60 hub conversion to 4 wheel chevy discs.

1978 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 rotors, wheel studs, calipers, and pads.

Hub stripped:

Add rotor:

Wheel studs for front or rear conversions:

Mount as so and install the studs. I used a ball peen on the back side and a hammer to pound in. I have no press.

Do not over do it or you will get this:

Another view:

Another:

 

Last set of rotors I used I pounded the studs up and cracked three or four of the areas like above of the "hat". I ran those rotors for ten years or so with no problems. I am replacing them now only because the drivers side inner had the pad installed wrong and scored it up really badly:

pic here will go here


If you install them adequately for engagement into the hub this much of the wheel stud looks like this (sticks out):

Length of installed stud depth with cracked hat above:

Non-cracked hat stud length:

I think the non-cracked install will be fine. Two-thousandths difference. Comments welcome.

Hub, rotor and wheel studs:

Another:

View showing old stud that you COULD use next to installed Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 rotor and wheel studs on IH dana 60 hub:

This is as tech as I get...

 

spell it out for me, why are your rotors cracked?

 

I hit it once to much with the BFG (big freaking hammer) and something had to give. The studs have a gradual taper to the top and as you hammer them in they wedge in until cracks as so. They won't all crack, just a couple did on the last set.

 

My $0.02

I used the same chevy rotors and the factory IH studs and had a similar seating problem. The last bit of the knurl did not fully seat into the rotor - but enough meat did get into the hub to provide a good seat. I am sure I couyld have beat them into the rotor but probably cracked the rotor just as seen here......

Carry on.... Good write up.

 

I have swapped the rotor and will be seating them properly so as not to crack the hat of the rotor, b/c like you said, plenty of engagement.

Thanks

 

Nice write-up. Good to see someone bring some tech once in a while. Those axles are a nice width plus come with flat-tops. Brakes suck but you fixed that. Any plans to upgrade the rear shafts?

 

I am talking to a vendor about alloy/better rear shafts, but I'm sticking with 30 spline since I put in a detroit and 4.88's last year. Wish I had went with 5.13's.

Im not even an international guy but i must say this is pretty sweet. Most people dont use micrometers for anything. Its nice to know im not the only one! Your work is clean and the fact that you took pictures of everthing so someone else could copy your work is very sweet! nice job.

Thanks. While I was trying to find parts I realized that there is not really anything out there to address these odd ball things, so I am just trying to fill the void. Thanks for the compliment.

Put the rotor in the oven at 350F for 30minutes and put the studs in the freezer for a few hours. :flipoff2:

I did walk into the house with a rotor, but was turned around fairly quickly by the Mrs. "Scout stuff outside, unless you want me moving house stuff into the garage." :grinpimp: Oh well.

THAT is a great idea though OS. The taper is considerably thicker than the stud that the rotor is meant to handle however....I'll try and mic them too and post pics.

 

Im not even an international guy but i must say this is pretty sweet. Most people dont use micrometers for anything. Its nice to know im not the only one! Your work is clean and the fact that you took pictures of everthing so someone else could copy your work is very sweet! nice job.

 

Put the rotor in the oven at 350F for 30minutes and put the studs in the freezer for a few hours. :flipoff2:

 

Speedi-sleeve installed and hub and assembly mounted. View from the backside.

The elusive lock nut, new:

A&A Mfg. Disc brake bracket spacing:

Another view:

View of the whole assembly.

Rear lower shock mount. I used SII front u-bolt bracket and shock studs. Weld the nut on the backside before you weld to the axle tube to keep it from turning.

 

The elusive lock nut, new:

That is also Spicer #30343, lock washer:homer:





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:flipoff2:

 

Width of the axles under a Scout. Tires are 37x12.50 R15 MTR's, wheels are 15x10 chrome steelies with ____ backspacing. (I think 4.5 to 5.5 inches)

Front:

 

Front steering setup:

Steel angle wedge (welded in place) and plate to move the axle forward 3/4".

Front pinion angle (has been cut and turned). Binding not an issue.

Front shock mount:

This is what happens when you install the brake pad wrong side in:

:shaking:

 

Not sure what you're asking. Spindle inside diameter and wall thickness.

 

The thinnest part of the spindle is the key way and threaded section.

 

This make the FAQ?

 

i know this is an old thread but i have a set of axles like yours and wanting to do the exact same but this is my first time rebuilding a axle, what im wanting to is put in new axle shafts, 4.56 gears and a locker, could i use chevy axle shafts and ring and pinion or what, or is a IH dana 44 the same as a chevy dana 44? and also what about new bearings and stuff like that?

 

Are you wanting to use the IH housing, and want to use chevy stuff from the knuckles out? Then you will need to use the IH inner axles, and the chevy outers. If you want new, then you will have to find a vendor who can make the inners. Not very very common.

 

yes im wanting to use the IH housing and use chevy stuff inside the housing

 

Just go all chevy, you will be much happier down the road.

 

thats what im thinkin about doin, i wanted 3/4 axles but i also have a 1/2 chevy d44 and 12 bolt that im probly guna build instead

 

pick and pulls usually have plenty of them and since you are building you can ditch the gears.

 

where could i find new axle shafts and gears?

 

The JY and SEARCH button are your friend. lots of 3/4 Ton chevy stuff on most of those lots.

Go over to Binder Planet if you need basic help.

Enough Spoonfeeding. Get to work!

 

Stop messing up MY thread.



This thread is for those either stuck with set up axles to improve due to NO parts being available or those able to modernize something unique.

 

So you only want us to show pics like these?








Ballistic Fab made the bracket for me off this sketch for my build.