[91YJJEEP]

Rollin' Again

The monster is ALIVE!!! She moved for the first time Saturday. Took a little longer than I would have hoped but I done it by myself and had very little time to devote to it but the tranny swap was a success!!
Thanks YJ4RoX for all your help and being patient with me. Man it felt good to drive her again.

Thanks Again

 

[YJ4RoX]

Glad to hear you got her running again man!

 

[91YJJEEP]

Ax-15 installation.......YJ4Rox is the man!!!!

I will try to remember all the stuff I had to get.
First a ax-15 tranny from 94/95 and up. This should have the external slave cylinder on it. I asked around and eveyone has said that the ext slave is the better way to go. Then you will need a bellhousing from a 96-98 Dodge Dakota that had a 2.5l magnum motor and ax-15. These will come with the setup for the ext slave cyl. I found one for $65.00.

If you cannot find a tranny from the 94 and up Jeep, then you will need a clutch fork, throw out bearing, clutch fork clip and an input bearing retainer from a newer ax-15 to work with the ext clutch and the bellhousing that you got from the dodge dakota and also maybe a slave cylinder if your bellhousing did not come with one. I lucked up and mine had the ext slave and the crank sensor on the bellhousing when I got it. The crank sensor did not work because the wiring clips were different. I reused my stock sensor.

Because of the difference in the depth of the input shaft, you will also have to get a bushing/bearing made for the flywheel. It can be made from inpregnated bronze. The dimensions are 1.0625 long, .590 ID and .947 OD. To install this bushing you will have to remove the flywheel from the Jeep and press out the stock bearing, then press in the new longer bushing/bearing.

Also while the fly wheel and clutch are off, you will need a clutch disc. The part number is RCF4198 from Napa. You will have to have this disc because the ax-15 has less splines than the ax-5. It runs around $50.00.

A new line also needs to be purchased from Advance Adapters. The part number is 716130H. Don't forget to get the correct fittings for the slave cylinder and master cylinder from Advance also. I think it runs around $50.00 for the steel braided line and the fittings.

After all the above is done you can finally install the tranny in the Jeep, but don't get too happy because the skid plate and the tunnel cover will have to be slightly modified to accomodate the now 2" longer tranny. I used a sawzall to elongate the 3 holes on the skidplate about 2" and to cut some metal out of the shifter area to make sure the shifter did not hit the body. You need to make sure that you have the tranny jacked up close to position to get a good idea of where to trim the body.

Another thing is you will have to modify the stock 4 wheel drive shifter bracket that bolts to the 5 speed shifter studs( which you better hope that you got with the tranny because the ax-5 shifter will not work. I just drilled the holes a little oversize and it bolted up to the shifter bracket.

Now for the transfer case. The input gear on the np231 was a 21 spline behind the ax-5 which will have to be changed to a 23 spline to use the ax-15. Now is a good time to do a slip yoke eliminator kit or fix any problems that you have with the transfer case. I went ahead and done the slip yoke eliminator kit with a dual cardan tom woods shaft.
It is better if you go ahead and do the ax-15 conversion then measure the working driveshaft length after all is installed to get a true measurement. Then you can call Tom Woods to get your driveshaft.
Almost done now. Bolt up your transfer case with the new 23 spline input gear to your ax-15.
On the transfer case mount, I used my stock one. I stuck the skid plate on lined it up with the closest threaded hole on the tranny. Remove the skid plate and mounted the stock bracket and the rubber bushing mount to the tranny. I used a washer on the one side and ground one side of the bracket to allow the bolt to match the hole. Then tightened everyhthing down.
Installed the skid plate,( now would be a good time to measure for driveshaft lengths) bled the clutch slave cylinder and crossed my fingers. To much of my amazement the Jeep moved and I drove it about 50 miles on Sunday. So far so good.
I dont think I have missed anything.

 

[Pottsy]

Well, my swap to the AX15 is done and it runs great... I've been driving it 50-60 miles a day since memorial day... I also wheeled it over memorial day....

Thanks a Ton for all the good info..... :beer:

 

[SuperJoe]

just incase i am missing something here what if you just simply got a clutch and presureplate, through out bearing and all for the same dodge dakota that the tranny and bell housing came out of? am ai missing somthing? the 2.5L is the same so the Fly wheel should be the same so everything should just bolt right up right? what if i found some one parting out a 96-98 dodge dakota with a 2.5L that has a blown motor and i get the clutch, presureplate, tranny and all from it hell do they use the same NP231 with the 4x4 models too? if so then would that work? or am i missing somthing? what about useing the pilot bushing from the same year model dakota as well?

 

[Greg55_99]

just incase i am missing something here what if you just simply got a clutch and presureplate, through out bearing and all for the same dodge dakota that the tranny and bell housing came out of? am ai missing somthing? the 2.5L is the same so the Fly wheel should be the same so everything should just bolt right up right? what if i found some one parting out a 96-98 dodge dakota with a 2.5L that has a blown motor and i get the clutch, presureplate, tranny and all from it hell do they use the same NP231 with the 4x4 models too? if so then would that work? or am i missing somthing? what about useing the pilot bushing from the same year model dakota as well?

This info comes from Jpman94 over at www.jeepforum.com. He highlights some differences between the Jeep AX15 and the 4WD Dodge Dakota version:

"I have a Dakota transmission in my Jeep. I want to say it was out of 99 or something like that. I can't remember. I found it on Ebay, and yes it was cheaper than one from a jeep. Don't ask me why, it's the same transmission.

The bell housing is removalable on the Dakota transmissions. I got mine without the bellhousing, the guy had the original that mated it to a V-8, but I didn't need that...

Once I got the transmission and then pulled my old one, I started comparing the two and looking for differences. I know, a little late to do that after I bought it, but I'm dumb like that... Everything was EXACTLY the same, input shaft size, spline count, output, transfer case shifter mount points, EVERYTHING, except.....

The 'clocking' of the transfer case mounting holes is different. The durango transfer case is clocked about 6-7 degrees LOWER! I thought long and hard about just making this work, but I sure didn't want to force it to fit and I didn't want to loose ground clearance.

So, after a lot of debating with my buddy helping me, we decided we would take a drill to my newly purchased transmission!!! We carefully made a template using the back of my old transmission and transferred the hole locations to the new one from the dakota. We then double and triple checked everything and then started to drill. While the ears that the holes are drilled into are the same on both transmissons, the hole locations are at opposite sides, (you just have to see one to understand that). So, there is room to drill the correct holes, but there is not much room for error. We started with small holes and worked our way up to the right size. When we were all done, the transfer case slid right on, in the correct location.

Other than that, the rest is better much a standard transmission install. The only other thing, is you will need to obviously use your shifter, as the dakota shifter isn't even close. Just unbolt it from your old tranny and bolt it to the new one."

 

[islander89]

Looking for info how to swap out hydraulic T.O. bearing on AX 15 to an external slave ? I was told to look here.

 

[YJ4RoX]

Th swap from the internal throw out/slave to external slave on the ax15 is pretty simple.

You will need an input bearing retainer from an ax15 that came with an external slave. The input retainer has a sleeve that protrudes out over the input. This is where the throw out bearing and shift fork will ride. You will probably need the bellhousing from an external slave ax15 as well. You need the bell for the pivot ball and the studs that mount up the new external slave.

You will need to buy the external slave, throw out bearing, shift fork and possibly a new line from the clutch master cylinder to the slave. Its a pretty straight forward swap once you have the parts.

If you are doing this behind the 2.5, the dakota bellhousing is already set up to run the external slave components.

 

[whwr55]

I followed this write up and I must say it went really well, everything bolted up just as indicated, I put everything together and drove the jeep and was having clutch engagement problems, not enough clutch, I reread the article and saw I had failed to extend the clutch slave rod by 1/2 inch. I made a rod our of a 5/16 bolt and rounded off the slave end and put the original plastic doo dad on the clutch end, still no clutch, I added fluid to my reservoir and pumped up the pedal, I felt resistance "VIOLA I SEZ" I mashed the pedal to the floor and the external slave busted inside the bell housing and puked fluid all over the place any advice?

I had used the external slave from a 95 yj

What would you guys recommend? What next?

 

[ynotemt]

Anyone having a hard time getting the clutch?? Went to Napa today to get the clutch, part# RCF4198. Was told that was a bad number I'll try a couple more Napa's to see.

 

[creepyjeepy]

I need help with my swap

i just got it done as well and have to thank you for the great information.
anyhow, after putting in the oil and test driving it again, i discovered this somewhat high-pitched grinding sound when letting out the clutch.
at first i thought it was the ax-15 itself, but while in neutral i tested it again by pressing the clutch pedal all the way and letting it slowly.

i discovered that by letting out the clutch pedal slowly, the grinding sound appears. it occurs when the pedal is perhaps a third of the way out, or slightly less. if i hold it, it will continue doing it. i had let the thing idle to get to operating temperature, but there was no difference.

could it be the clutch or something related to it during assembly, or can it be the transmission itself? i would truly appreciate it if anyone could give me some advice or opinions as to my problem. TIA. mario

 

[zachv]

I just wanted to BTT this so I can be e-mailed if there are updates.
Thanks!

 

[ardvark]

sounds like the throwout bearing

 

[l'jeeper]

I am actually running a Dodge Dakota ax15 and 231D in my jeep. I just switch to a 4.0 bellhousing with external slave cluth cylinder. it is practically a bolt in process. I ahe the 3.9 dodge bellhousing that I confirmed bolts to a 316 or 360. That ie my next project.

 

[jackedHB]

I have a 88 YJ 4.2L that I am doing a ax-15 swap with, everything is done and ready, except for a transmission mount. Everything I have tried dont fit, should I just fab up my own mount or does a mount from another model fit?

 

[jwrape]

Ok, I read this entire post. I just bought my 92' YJ in GREAT shape 3 weeks ago and the AX5 crapped out on the way home from Orlando to ATL(drove 350 miles in 4th gear). Anyways, I am gonna do this conversion. I have the 98' Dakota Bellhousing coming Friday, found a 95' AX15 coming probably next week. My local Napa is ordering the clutch disc, I found a Dixie driveline that will shorten my drive shaft for $50. I got a 23 spline input shaft from a AX15 NP231 transfercase, so that should just slide into place(hopefully).

Now the two things that are still bothering me are: The Slave cylinder. What type should I use, Dodge Dakota Slave or a certain year Jeep Slave? I am worried because I have seen a couple post about the clutch not disengaging all the way after they get it together. Let me know if there is something I need to do to prevent this.
Also when having the pilot bearing machined, do you buy the inpregnated Bronze from somewhere and take it to the machinist or is that common material that a machinist would have on hand? From what I understand I will have to remove the flywheel and press the old one out and press the new one in. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I know I might sound a little ignorant, but I have rebuilt engines etc. but ALWAYS shyed away from Transmission work except for the occationaly clutch, P.Plate and bearing replacement. But this one I have jumped head first into so there is no turning back now and I want my Jeep on the road or offraod again.
One more thing, the part number for the Slave cylinder line is 716130TJH, correct? I know there is 716130H but the previous one comes with the fittings needed from what I have been told.
Please double check me so I can get this right the first time.
Thanks guys!

 

[jwrape]

Would a Clutch fork from a 83 CJ 7 T176 work? I have an extra.

 

[jwrape]

clutch disk NAPA part # RCF4198 9-1/8" OD with the 1 1/8x10 spline (1984 Chevy Camero with a 4 banger and a 4 spd tranny),

Ok, I called NAPA, they don't sell the Clutch disc by itself anymore. BUT O'Reiley's has them in their warehouse in Texas and can have it in by Tuesday, today is Friday. Not bad. O'Reiley's part number is CP4198(similar to Napa's part #. Oh yea, and it's $39.95 there instead of $49.xx at NAPA. Good deal. Nice to know.

Edit: Just called AutoZone. They can get it for me quicker and it's $21.99+$6 core charge. Same part number CP4198

 

[Tfritz]

i just got it done as well and have to thank you for the great information.
anyhow, after putting in the oil and test driving it again, i discovered this somewhat high-pitched grinding sound when letting out the clutch.
at first i thought it was the ax-15 itself, but while in neutral i tested it again by pressing the clutch pedal all the way and letting it slowly.

i discovered that by letting out the clutch pedal slowly, the grinding sound appears. it occurs when the pedal is perhaps a third of the way out, or slightly less. if i hold it, it will continue doing it. i had let the thing idle to get to operating temperature, but there was no difference.

could it be the clutch or something related to it during assembly, or can it be the transmission itself? i would truly appreciate it if anyone could give me some advice or opinions as to my problem. TIA. mario

Creepyjeepy I think I found out what your noise is. The 2.5 is not a smooth running motor. If you have installed MORE motor mounts you will know what I mean. The noise is the tranny chattering because the engine idles so ruff. I think the fix is to put an inertia ring on. I was running the AA pilot bearing and figured the chattering could be that. I had one made that fit better and the noise didn't go away. I swapped the throw out and that didn't help. I thing that clued me to this was I turned my OBA on and the chatter got loader.

 

[creepyjeepy]

sounds like a good theory. especially because the bearing (throw-out) was new and i couldn't figure out why it would be bad so soon. i've also thought that the AA pilot might be loose, but i've also noticed how the drivetrain vibrates more than it used to.
by inertia ring, you mean a heavier flywheel right?
the other helpful comments (thanks fellas) is that the throw-out is bad because the noise does not occur all the time. however, it now happens when i press it in all the way (weird, sometimes it just doesn't happen).

for the time being, i think i'll just drive it as is and punish it until i need to pull the whole thing down but will keep your comment in mind. thnx.