I have a 2004 5.3L chevy motor. does anyone know which way the coolant flows through the water pump? Does it flow in the lower and out the upper or vice versa?

Looks like this:

THe upper hose feeds the radiator

 

Thanks

 

As a side note, is there such a thing as an aftermarket housing or pump for these engines that has the inlet coming from somewhere besides precariously sticking directly off the side of the engine into nowhere?

J. J.

 

Here ya go, uses a standard old school chevy thermostat, and comes in a few color choices.

http://www.jegs.com/i/CSR/170/911LS1C/10002/-1

 

Another Question for you all....

The threaded piece on the front of the pully is used for the stock clutch fan. It doesn't appear to be holding the pump pully on. I would like to get a bit more clearance than I currently have between this piece and the E-fan I just put in. Has anyone cut the treaded portion off? If it is ok to cut off, I wouldn't think you would want much heat to do so. What would be the tool of choice to not damage the pump?

 

THe pulley is a press fit. You could just cut it off but keep it cool and don't heat it up to much or might damage the seals in the pump.

I dont' see why you coudln't do that. That top neck is pretty obtuse, isn't it? For such a beautiful streamlined engine they sure went crazy with the water pump!

J. J.

The L92 water pump is at a 45* angle vs the regular truck pump's. and shorter.

 

Thank you. Now is there a good way to cap off the heater hose fittings and get rid of those nozzles, too? (My driveshaft is going to have clearance issues right there which is why I am fixating on this topic.)

J. J.

 

I welded on a stud and used my slide hammer, took 10 minutes. the holes are perfect for 3/8" and 1/2" npt taps and plugs.

wayne

 

J.J. the best way I've heard is to pull the water pump, remove the nipples, tap the holes to NPT and add a plug. I tried moving mine with a vice grip and it didn't work. I'm going to take the pump off and try harder.

While we're somewhat on the subject, is there any reason I can't mitre cut the upper neck, bend it down and re-weld it? It's right where my cobra head intake needs to be to clear my hood and I would only have to move it down an inch or so. I was thinking 2 or 3 cuts.

 

I dont' see why you coudln't do that. That top neck is pretty obtuse, isn't it? For such a beautiful streamlined engine they sure went crazy with the water pump!

J. J.

 

The heater nipples come out pretty easy. I welded nuts on the ends of the nipples and screwed my slide hammer into the nuts. Couple taps and the nipples yanked right out. 1/2 NPT tap goes into the big one and 3/8-npt goes into the small one without even having to drill the ports. I threaded my mechnaical temp sending unit into the larger port. I have a truck water pump I drilled and tapped the top of the pump to connect the steam port.

-Lucas

 

Actually, looking at it some more it looks like it may also interfere with my intake?

J. J.

 

Personally, I'd cut and weld that shit in a heartbeat. There's no way you're going to restrict water flow more than the thermostat / restrictor already does.

J. J.

 

Yeah I know it would be really easy to make it clear. I was just wondering if it was weldable, not if I should cut & weld it. I wasn't sure of the material or coating. I just cleaned off a part of one of the heater ports with a sanding disk and hit it with the welder, welds just fine! I just need to take the water pump off to cut and angle the neck.

How do I get this water pump pulley off? Looks like it's pressed on? Do I even need to take it off to get the pump out?

 

From the pics above it looks like the pump comes off without having to remove the pulley.

J. J.

 

The L92 pump is a truck pump and will bolt in place of any truck pump and clear everything. The only problem is if you had a car intake.

Looks like it will work for you as well Chris.

The pulleys are the same on the L92 and other truck pumps. Most times you will distroy the pump getting the pulley off if not carefull and its just pressed on.

 

So the pulley doesn't need to come off, cool. I'm going to remove my pump and cut/hack/weld the neck to look like the L92 pump. Thanks guys!

 

Heat it and bent it over then cut it if needed. But I would buy the L92 one as they are cheap and you wouldn't have to worry about leaks as i think the pressin neck has a seal in it.

But all the truck guys use to cut the neck really low anyway when swapping to a car intake and using the truck pump.

 

Your exit tube on your water pump looks a bit longer but as mentioned above, cut it down and just clamp it tight. Maybe just a different intake tube would help you clearance issue.

 

got a PN or application for that K&N intake tube?

 

Not off hand but will get it off of it this evening and post it.

 

Just for everyones information, if you want/need to run the car intake but dont want to swap out all of your truck accessories there is an off the shelf water pump that fits the bill. The L99 (camaro v8, has cam phasing, need to check about AFM) will allow you to run a car intake manifold while keeping all of your truck accessories in place. The thermostat is in the same place but the outlet is on the drivers side of the pulley and points straight forward. It will also clear the VVT front cover so you can "have you cake and eat it too" with a cam phased engine.

I'll work on getting a part number.

 

But does it have the same crank spacing on the pulley as the truck accessories?

I don't think it will space out correctly, has anyone tried it? Any more info on the swap?

They sell spacers for the car pumps to be used with truck accessories as well. Pretty cheap.

 

I think you can plug the top and re drill a hole in the boss on the front. Just on the pass side of the pulley.

 

any chance to run an LS7 water pump? It goes straight out the face?

PN# 12XXXXXX

 

any chance to run an LS7 water pump? It goes straight out the face?

PN# 3037 157 0530

LS7/2/3 water pumps are on the "car" belt track and it is 40mm closer to the engine than the "truck" belt track. you can run it but you dont have many options for PS pumps because there isnt much room between the engine and the belt track. T/C style is about it. The LS1 belt track I am pretty sure about 1/2 way between the car and truck belt tracks but I havent verified to be 100$ positive, just going off where my "LS1" N style pump kit from PSC fell relative to the car and truck stuff I have.

 

ohh, BTW, that part number is not a GM number. GM uses 8 digit numbers only.

edit; if you look at the pulley you can see teh "12XXXXXX" number for it, the water pump casting number will be cast into it and from there you can find the assembly number.

 

ha, yeah I snagged that straight from ebay, your right wrong PN.

Doesn't someone offer a spacer for that problem? Running a car pump on a truck setup?

 

It's on a piece of paper on my desk at work, I'll post it up monday.

 

Let me know if there are any problems with trying to use this number to source the water pump. 12610169 No guarantees but that should get you the production L99 water pump assembly; ready to bolt on. :smokin:

 

Its looking more and more like I'm going to have to switch to the l92 pump due to driveshaft clearance issues. (Sucks because I just had my heater ports tigged shut today.) It looks as though it may use a different belt tensioner though? Can you confirm or deny this?

J. J.

 

The outlet is at a 45* angle if its the L92/LY6 pump. Its also the same pump used on all the Gen IV truck v8's now.

The tensioner off the Gen III should work, I have see a few use the L92 wp with a a gen III engine and it wrok fine. Although the Gen IV tensioner my be a different part number.

The Gen III truck motor. NOTE: WP and tensioner

The Gen IV truck motor NOTE: WP at 45* and shorter and tensioner compared to the one above

Also I don't think the L99 camaro pump will clear the truck alt/ps bracket!

 

Also, can anyone confirm that the pump in the above linked eBay listing runs up 45* from the pump on my engine that I pictured earlier? Its kind of hard to tell from the pics and I want to be sure that I am getting the right thing. Thanks.

J. J.

 

You know, I think this is my own dimwitted fault, but it is not the outlet that I am having clearance issues with. All this time I thought we were talking about the inlets. I don't think either of the pumps discussed so far have any difference in terms of where the inlet is routed. IE, my driveshaft is going to come dangerously close to my thermostat housing. So is there any pumps that may work where the inlet is a couple inches higher?

J. J.