A quality 3/4" rod end will outlast a 9/16 grade 8 bolt from what I have seen. They typically get noisy and loose afte a few seasons, most common partial failure I have seen is a bent shank, actually never seen a 3/4 rod end totally fail. You may want to consider the 7/8 size, I picked up some for less than what my old 3/4" rod ends ran me the last go around (vendor section sale, something like $26 with a jam nut early this year). Both sizes had nearly the same radial load capacity (44k vs 48k lbs) but the 7/8 just has more bulk to it.

7/8 on the left, 3/4 on the right.

 

I have a buddy that linked his rear a few seasons ago and when he said he was going to run 3/4" Heims I thought he was crazy as he beats the shit out of his rig. Lo and behold, they have held up great and he actually bent a 2" 7075 link and the Heims are still in great shape. Apparently they are stronger than what many of the web wheelers think.

 

You will bend the 2x.250 quickly. I have 3/4" heims on my rear lowers and they all bent within a few months, with only 3 threads showing. I'm going to re-do the lowers this winter with 1.25" s hank Johnny Joints. That's what I have up front, and I have been abusing them relentlesly for a year. They are still like new.

 

Yep, forgot to mention, you have to screw the 3/4" rod ends all the way in or else you bend the shank.

 

Yep I figured get my eye to eye distance pretty close and run as little shank as possible exposed. My arm are mounted pretty high, I dont hit them often, my old arms were from Rubicon express and were .120 wall and stayed straight.

One thing I didnt mention is my upper bolt can only be 9/16, whatever heim I get has to be reduced down.

http://ballisticfabrication.3dcartstores.com/XM-14-78-CrMo-rod-end-w-kevlar-liner-_p_84-1424.html

I think these are the heims I got.

 

Is this for your ZJ? I was planning on using 1" joints with 1.25" shanks for the unbreakable beef... Expensive but bombproof

How hard do you plan to wheel your rig?
How much HP?
How much weight?

For a DD/light wheeler 3/4 is fine
For anything PBBish, 3/4 may not be enough

 

Yep for my ZJ. it gets wheeled hard. It weighs 5800 lbs loaded and is all stock under the hood.

What I mean by wheeled hard is when we go out I dont take straps or pull any lines. I get up it. A typical moab trip runs pritchett, the nail, the tubs etc. Thats is really the hardest trips on the thing. Like the rock pile, I can get up it, it takes about a 3/4 bump to do it. My suspension is set up well to take it, but if these joints are questionable at all, I will send them back and trade them out today.

I dont beat the shit out of it, I try and keep it nice, I designed it to climb vertical stuff, and prefer to crawl stuff then the throttle approach. I got a trailer and a tow rig this year, it sees no street time except for to and from the trailer to a trailhead.

 

5800 lbs and an uncontrolable right foot?

Use the 3/4", bring a cammera :flipoff2:

I'd look to 1" heims or poly bushings with 1.25" shanks

 

We broke one 3/4 high end joint in comp when we landed on a rock about 3"s from the joint. Snapped the head off.

I broke a cheap proline alignaball this weekend in Harland. Had the old ones in for 5 years and it had some slop so I replaced it with the Alignaball hoping it would make it one trip:shaking:

If you go with QUALITY joints, 3/4 will work.

 

i run 3/4in heims on 42's. i have never broke one but i have bent a few. if your hard on your shit you will bend or brake them, so just have a spare or upgrade now.

 

I cant brag on the Ballistic Fab guys enough. Nate was way helpful about this when I spoke to him this morning. He also recommended the bigger joints and gave me some specific reasons as to why. They are letting me send the 3/4 ones back and will swap them out with the bigger ones for the price difference. Standup guys, I would recommend them to anyone.

 

A friend had 3/4" heims on his uppers and lowers (rear of 85 toyota). They lasted a long time but eventually he started breaking one a trip. Before he could replace them all he lost a heim while prerunning. Bent all the links, broke the wheel, slashed a tire...

I dont think his were heat treated. So I'd at least run a heat treated joint on the uppers. And something bigger on the lowers. Especially if it is bigger or more powerful than a toyota.

 

i run 3/4" x 7/8" heims on my 5800lb buggy and after 2 years they are still tight

 

You guys want to argue joints and fling insults do it in your own thread. :shaking:

THREAD CLEANED.

 

I am thinking about this setup but not positive yet. What is everyone's thoughts?

http://www.qscomponents.com/58x34ChromW58conespacersbungsandjam.html


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Rod End Specs

* XM 10-12


* Body: 4130 Chromoly Steel Heat Treated


* Race: Injection Molded Teflon Kevlar


* Ball: 52100 Bearing Steel Precision Ground Heat Treated


* Thread Size: 3/4-16 / Four RH & Four LH


* Ball Bore: .625


* Ball Width: .750


* Center Of Ball To Bottom Of Shank: 2.875


* Thread Length: 1.750


* Ult. Static Radial Load: 40,572



Weld-In Bung Specs

* Material: 1045 Mild Steel


* Threaded Size: 3/4-16 / Four RH & Four LH


* Fits Tube Size: 1 1/4 OD. x .120 Wall



Cone Spacer Specs

* Material: 1045 Mild Steel Zinc Plated / 8 Pair


* Bore: .625


* Width: 1.000


* Height: .435


* Taper: 30 Deg



Jam Nut Specs

* Thread Size: 3/4-16 / Four RH & Four LH


* Width: 1 1/8


* Heigth: 27/64

 

They were fine for me for a few years. Then I slowly broke one or two each trip. I finally redid the whole rear end after this happened.

 

decisions decsions