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6r80 transfercase dropside for Ecoboost swap?

6.9K views 25 replies 13 participants last post by  cruisermattfj62  
#1 ·
Working feverishly on plans for a 3.5 Ecoboost w/6r80 swap into a 1988 Land Cruiser FJ62. Insurmountable hurdle is the transfer case drop side. Toyota is passenger side drop 19 spline, ALL Fords are 31 spline & drivers side drop. I want to keep the 6R80 behind the Ecoboost.

Really looking to tap into the 4x4 community for transfer case options behind the 6r80 that will drop on the drivers side. Should be 31 spline 6 bolt pattern.

1: Find a big bearing NP205 out of a Chevy 1 ton and put the Ford input shaft and guts into the Chevy. Will be driverside drop 31 spline. Seems doable.

2: Get a shop to build an adapter from Ford to Toyota. Love this option.

3: Go divorced case and use whatever. Really would prefer not to.

4: Get the Hugh's Adapter for a 3.5 ecoboost to a 4l80 or 4l65/4l60 trans, then run advance adapter to toyota case. Seems like a lot of adapter.

5: Please please options?
 
#4 ·
Have you tried calling Advanced Adapters? They don't advertise everything that they manufacture especially if they are doing the production and someone else owns the rights.

A good example of this is the NP203 to the 19 spline Land Cruiser tcase like yours.

Blackbox is also a nice option. But you may need an adapter. I've got one behind a 4l80 in one of my FJ55s. I have heard there is an issue with the vent location causing oil splash out.
 
#8 ·
I have contacted advanced adapters, they did not seem interested in producing something. The intention is street/DD/light off-road. I looked into Atlas but they are costing upwards of $3500.

I heard of Blackbox, a quick look at their website puts it at $2,000 for a 31 spline transmission to 19 spline Toyota case. Looks like that would work, but for 2 grand whew!

Any other options? What about flipping an NP205 upside down and fixing the vent/drain etc?
 
#9 ·
You're putting an ecoboost into an older rig and $2k is a lot of money?

Have you looked at the trans to make sure passenger drop is even possible? I know some newer auto transmissions do not lend well to it.

The other option is different axles. Your rear is already most likely not going to work with whatever tcase you end up with since it's offset and 95% of tcases are centered rear out put.
 
#10 ·
Good point with the $2,000, but it's adding up fast. Currently i'm seeign this pushing 12-15k as a DIY swap. I'm really just looking for something with LS+ power that is not an LS.

The rear is offset but a center out would be "ok" running sideways with a double joint? I'm not an expert at all but looking for information on how to make this feasible.

YotaAtieToo, what axles should I be looking for that will work with a 60 and have a driverside & center diff?
 
#11 ·
Good point with the $2,000, but it's adding up fast. Currently i'm seeign this pushing 12-15k as a DIY swap. I'm really just looking for something with LS+ power that is not an LS.

costs a lot to to be different. I'd be looking at 2jz

The rear is offset but a center out would be "ok" running sideways with a double joint? I'm not an expert at all but looking for information on how to make this feasible.

doubt it, not for something you want to take on the highway.

YotaAtieToo, what axles should I be looking for that will work with a 60 and have a driverside & center diff?
80s Waggoner would be similar width, 6 lug and even have the spring under leaf pads in the front. Plenty of options for 6 lug centered rear from Toyota, Nissan, Isuzu, ect.

Another option would be to just get a new housing for the front that just flips everything to the other side. Diamond axle can help you on that one.

You best option though with how much power you are adding would be axles from a 99+ super duty.
 
#12 ·
#13 ·
I'd be really surprised if a D300 worked with the size of that trans.

Also, an FJ80 rear is 6" wider than an FJ62 front doesn't sound like a great match.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Jesus fuck, quit over complicating it with obscure adapters and such. Run the stock ecoblow tcase.

It's a toy 9.5 diff. Flip it driver side and turn the knuckles.

The rear d-shaft doesnt know left from right or up from down. Keep it reasonable and it wont vibe.

Waggy 44 rear, later model toy 8/8.4 for a street queen, early model 9", rear axle is actually the easy and cheap part.
 
#20 ·
I took a look at your thread on Mud.

I will add: Avoid the NP203 to split case solution at all cost. Advanced does not make the main shaft any more. This is assuming you can find one. I had one at a point during one of my builds... I'm glad I got rid of it.

Also, are you sure the Eco will even fit in your engine bay? It is big block wide(~28" at the turbo) Basically 2" wider than a standard SBC.

As another interesting alternative for you: What about the LF3/4 from a Cadillac? It is a twin turbo'd 3.6L. It is 50 lbs lighter than the Ecoboost and comes in at 400/400 or 450/450(not exact)
 
#21 ·
Have not looked into the Caddy motor. I will poke into that. Haven't heard of much aftermarket support is my only worry. I measured across my engine bay and I believe it will fit without the giant 62 air cleaner and smog canisters everywhere. Power steering will need to addressed as well since the EB does not have provisions for such.

I will not go the 203 route, can't even find a Ford 203! The blackbox or Atlas will be the path at this point I think.
 
#23 ·
there is a reason the LS is as popular as it is. KISS wins all day everyday.

have you solved the engine/trans/tcase/speedsensors integration issues? for what you plan on doing id be replacing axles to keep the entire drive train assembly together.
 
#25 ·
So the point is to test/travel down some new roads of feasibility here. My cruiser is getting a power train swap regardless, the LS conversion is tried/true/works, just looking at other options. I still may end up doing the LS swap because it works! After taking some stock on whats feasible I think I have nailed down the few options for this swap:

(Also power steering, plan to remove the A/C compressor and replace it with a PS pump).

1: Superduty axles shortened, retain the complete 3.5/6r80/BW transfercase, keeping the whole thing ford and capable of handling the power.

2: 3.5/6r80/"black box-c doubler"/toyota splitcase. Sounds like the guys on Mud think the splitcase won't be able to handle the power.

3: 3.5/hughes adapter to 4l65E/Advance Adapter to splitcase. Possible, but ditching the 6r80 for an old 4 speed will really hurt the swap and still have the issue of the splitcase being able to handle the power.

I like option 1.