Subscribed! Buddy blew both front and rear outputs out of a Dana 300 with a 351 in a Toyota at the same time.

 

Yeah I think I'm going to just upgrade both while I have it all out and be done with it and pray for the best.

 

id be interested in your sas build stuff.

 

I was deployed in Afghanistan when I bought everything so I went for the quickest way to SAS my rig. Duff definitely made that possible. If I were to do it again without the time constraints I had, I would forgo using their trac bar mount and make one from ruffstuff work.

I used these parts from duff:

Ranger SAS trac bar bracket: 5410
78-79 bronco radius arm kit: 5351
Ranger SAS coil buckets: 5261B
EB 5.5 lift springs: 5109
HD lower coil retainer: 5120

The reason I don't care so much for their trac bar bracket is because you are locked into the how far forward you can push the axle. And the trac bar runs in the middle of the engine x-member so depending on lift and articulation you could have clearance problems. But otherwise everything is literally drill holes and bolt in. The upper coil buckets are pretty neat because they compensate for the hump on the driver frame rail and space out the coils about 1/2''. I drilled new holes on the lower coil retainers inboard 3/4'' so I can run a full width axle and not have extreme coil bow. You will have to address your stock tranny x-member because the radius arm mounts want to live where it mounts. I had to make a new one anyway because of the doubler.

 

Subbed to see how the 351 turns out.

 

just picked up a 79 f150 d44. hopefully with tax money i can scoop up the duff sas parts and get started again on my ranger

 

Moved into a new house finally, got the garage almost dialed in, just have to move the compressor. Planning to pull the 4.0 and old tranny/doubler next weekend

 

A Ford np-205 would be a better choice for a case. Also, Ford factory oil pumps are overbuilt from what I've read. A high volume might do more harm than good....so I've been told. My stock Ford oil pump has been working good on my 10.5:1 393W for years. I'm not a professional engine builder or a guy that builds engines for a living just what I remember when I built my engine.

 

Yeah there are stronger cases out there, but I had the 300 so I decided to work with it. At least it's small and light weight. I have heard 2 different things about the oil pumps. Some say stay with stock, others swear to upgrade. This is the first engine I built and decided to go with an upgraded pump based off the advice a friend gave me. Hopefully it doesn't bite me in the end.

 

day 1

engine swap day 1 - YouTube time lapse of the day

 

Sweet rig man. Really like how you did the bed. Just might gave to borrow that idea someday

 

O and what part of Washington you live in. I noticed your license plate

Thanks man, the bed is pretty simple. I used circle track plastic for the sides.

I grew up in the outskirts of Vancouver around Battleground, But I live in New Mexico right now due to the Air Force; I just keep it registered in WA.

 

O and what part of Washington you live in. I noticed your license plate

 

Long day short, I got the old engine, t cases, tranny out, and the 351 mocked in. I am experimenting with my engine mounts trying to figure out how I want to do them. We fabbed up some solid mounts that will bolt to the cross member. Got the engine to sit nice and far back and low. Any thoughts and opinions about solid mounting the motor?

 

another time lapse I put together if anyone is interested

engine swap day 2 - YouTube

 

the front inners and core would be in the backyard and now is the time for a sensible k member installation. that ttb shit needs to go.

 

^^^^couldnt agree more I wish I had done that while my motor was out. I'm actually going to make that my weekend project while my front axle is out.

Inners and core are staying. I have been debating making a tubular crossmember, but currently it isn't really in the way of anything, I might just trim the edges of it. When I had the block temped in there i had it sitting pretty low and far back. How would you guys build a different one and to what advantages?

 

^^^^couldnt agree more I wish I had done that while my motor was out. I'm actually going to make that my weekend project while my front axle is out.

 

You need one because when that 351 puts the smack down on the 44 youll have to wedge a 60 up front like me!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/1551946-ttb-crossmember-delete.html

 

Thats a pretty sweet setup and looks nice and simple to build, thanks for the link. Right now I am just focusing on making this thing go vroom vroom.

Oh and Ive been scouring the depths of craigslist for a while now searching for front axles lol. Going for a rear 9 inch also

 

i dont mean permanently pop the core off.....just for musical engines and k member modifications and shit....crawling around side to side making mounts and off setting the whole powertrain to fit it all up where your happiest... is easier with it gone.

when i was younger and before my back was completely destroyed i could get away with that ninja contortionist shit your doing....now....not so much.



all in all moving the powertrain in and out for trimming and plating the k member or whatever you want is much easier....shit ton of ways to do it. just do it.


the 351 probably gonna be a d44 killer, but you obviously know how to drive so i wont bet against making it work long term at this point till you get down the road a ways....


solid rig, i think your gonna be happy with it. i know i would be.

 

i dont mean permanently pop the core off.....just for musical engines and k member modifications and shit....crawling around side to side making mounts and off setting the whole powertrain to fit it all up where your happiest... is easier with it gone.




when i was younger and before my back was completely destroyed i could get away with that ninja contortionist shit your doing....now....not so much.



all in all moving the powertrain in and out for trimming and plating the k member or whatever you want is much easier....shit ton of ways to do it. just do it.


the 351 probably gonna be a d44 killer, but you obviously know how to drive so i wont bet against making it work long term at this point till you get down the road a ways....


solid rig, i think your gonna be happy with it. i know i would be.

Yeah it definitely would be easier with all the extra metal out of the way. I wish it was bolted on and not spot welded or it would have been. Thanks for the compliments, I hope I can handle the new power haha. I just need the 44 to last me another year while I get something new built up.

 

Good looking build so far man! Time lapse is pretty damn cool to watch!

 

Thanks man I'm glad someone other than enjoys them. I think next time I am going to mount the camera on the windshield facing into the engine bay.

Parts started showing up today. Wiring harness, bling bling doubler, and some of the shifter parts.

 

Man you need to invest in some lights for the garage. That would drive me crazy.good looking build.

 

Yeah tell me about it... Its not nearly as bad as the videos make it look. This is a rental house so my ability/will to improve it is extremely low. I added the florescent lights about the truck, the garage only had one 60w lightbulb when I moved in. Also it only has 1 220 outlet and 2 wall 120 outlets. The suck.

Where's this harness I keep hearing of :flipoff2:
Looks good so far...

SVT

Go check TRS, I can't bore these high class people over here on pirate with a used wiring harness, they only like the high dollar bling bling chingy chingy crap over here :grinpimp:

 

Where's this harness I keep hearing of :flipoff2:
Looks good so far...

SVT

 

Well I bolted the tranny up to the block and set it in the truck again to finalize my motor mounts. I also started digging through the wiring and taking all the crap out I wont need. About 75% done with that. Bolted up the doubler and tcase also to start making cross members tomorrow. The new drive train is really short. Just the dana 300 and behemoths shorty doubler is 17 inches together. Going to have lengthen my rear and shorten the front driveshafts.
The motor is sunk down nice and low. There is plenty of clearance for 3'' header collectors around the firewall and block. Still going to be tight making the driver side header but it looks doable.

This week after I get the cross member made I need to pull engine, put it 100% together, mod the heater box, paint engine bay and finish up wire weeding, then build headers and exhaust.

 

Very nice can't wait to see what you do for headers.

 

Here is the tranny cross member I made today. Not quite happy with it, but its really strong and gets the job done. Doublers make it difficult to locate so the drive shaft or yoke doesn't hit it. I dont like how the lowest point is below the frame. Still above the radius arm mounts, but kinda bothers me.

My camera blows.

 

Shave the bottom of the cross member off, then plate it.


Looks good so far!


Be careful with your front driveshaft angles, by making it shorter your angles will increase. I had to limit my driverside a lot to keep from binding my joint. I even stepped up to 1410 joints. That is part of the reason I am moving the motor back further in my build.

 

That is a good idea, I'll have to do that when I pull it again for paint.

I am concerned with my front driveshaft. I only have my old 1310 to try and mock up and figure out angles, and it looks close to maxing out the operating angles. I have the motor as far back as I can without putting it through the firewall like you have done. Do you by chance know how long your front driveshaft was?

 

Mine is about 24", but I don't have the doubler and I have a 60 front axle. I used 1310 for a long time, I bet you can make that work.

 

I don't drive super throttle heavy or anything, but I am worried about breaking 1310 stuff. I guess I can try it and see how it goes

 

Toyota is where it's at. :smokin:

 

I wish I lived back in Vancouver still and could have the guy that made yours, make me one!

What are you trying to say?? Haha

You will be fine with 1310, just buy Spicer joints. I ran a 1310/1410 joint combination till just now. Never broke a joint, but I did break yokes.

Oh, we all know what I'm trying to say :flipoff2:
1310 on the tcase and 1410 on the axle?

24" is gonna be tough I would say. I had to limit the drivers side droop on mine with a 30" shaft with the 16" coilovers. I'm currently at about 36" overall length on the front shaft and no issues and no limit. Good brand 1310's have always been fine in the front on my rig with good driveline angles. Bad driveline angles=issues with no matter what joint you run.

Yeah I do agree with you, I bet it is safe to say most failures is poorly setup drivelines.

wow great looking ranger! do you have a build on the back half? or maybe just shoot me some pics? im thinking of skinning mine and i like how yours looks

I cut a bit off the rear of the rails up to the spring hangers, welded in a 2x4 cross member that I could mount lights in. Initially I wanted to sink the fuel cell down low between the frame, but I would have had to remount my shocks, so I just put it on top. The subframe is 2x2 tube, and 1.75 tube everywhere else. I only have a small "floor" section, right behind the cab and up to the fuel cell (shaped like a "T"), it is open around the tires, no fenders made to cover them.

 

24" is gonna be tough I would say. I had to limit the drivers side droop on mine with a 30" shaft with the 16" coilovers. I'm currently at about 36" overall length on the front shaft and no issues and no limit. Good brand 1310's have always been fine in the front on my rig with good driveline angles. Bad driveline angles=issues with no matter what joint you run.