First off I start off with removing, grinding torching, cutting away everything up front that I'm not going to be needing so pretty much the entire front suspention.

 

I removed the front grill and bumper as well because I cut away the front crosember so I had to weld in some rectangular tubing up front, also I had it up behind the bumper because originally I was doing a leaf spring setup.

 

Here is the rectangular tubing I welded in, and yes it's pretty bad, I didn't do a good job cleaning the area and still learning how to weld, not to worry I went in cleaned the area and welded it properly later on this is before I fixed the welds

 

Next up I cut away all the brackets on the frame for the control arms and stuff, ground them smooth and mocked up the frame plates I got from WFO concepts

Unfortunately I forgot to take a pictures of it all cut off. Here is the frame flates weded up and painted

 

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I had a dana 44 to put under it but then I bought a dana 60 from the junk yard. Here it is under the truck.

 

Here is the WFO 3 piece crossmember for the obs trucks, it replaces the stock transmission crossmember that was pretty easily removed. the two side pieces will bolt up to the Holes that the old crossmember bolted up to and I used that to punch and drill out the rear third hole for the new crossmember along with the two on the side of the frame. And the center section will bolt up to the transmission mount bushing and the side pieces

 

Seems i forgot to take many pictures but here I am making the radius arms, I'm using a 2 inch od and .25 wall dom round tubing for the radius arms, there is the 1.5 inch tube insert with the 2 and 5/8 wide chromoly poly joints welded up to the tube. I also drilled 2 half inch holds to plug weld.

 

Here is the brackets from barnes 4WD for the upper radius arm links welded up, I didn't like the bead being off to one side so I went over with another pass

 

I also put the front end back on

 

Here are the link ends tacked up

 

testing fitment

 

What radius arm kit is that?

 

No kit I make them myself, the mounts and tubing is from barnes 4wd I used 2inch od .25 wall dom

 

I machined these inserts to get welded into the tube ends to prevent water front getting in

 

I took the axle back out to replace the ball joints and tie rods so I decided to fit the steering arm I had for the d44 and fit it to the d60 knuckle, I machined the top of the knuckle flas along with taking alot of the rust off for welding and welded the arm to the knuckle as well as slot of gussets to reinforce it

 

Here is the knuckle back on with new balljoints and tie rods

 

I got these adjustable panhard bar mounts from barnes. The frame side is an outside frame ones, this will help me keep it as close to the same lengths as the drag link as possible as I have backed up the axle side as far as I can

 

Here is the prototyme pandard bar and drag link it was hard to tell with they were perellel do to the picture pipes having a bow to them so I measured from the ground to the the mounting holes and they were about half an inch off for i jad to correct this later. And yes i knew the ground is uneven for i had a long piece of 2x4 that wend from one side to the other and leveled it out same as the truck to get an accurate reading

 

I'm replacing these tube insert that cam with my drag link ends with ones from barnes 4wd because there were slightly thicker and had the threads going all the way into the tube and felt that would be safer and I'd be able to plug weld is a little easier

 

After raising the axle to full bump I figures I'd have to put bends in the panhard bar to get as much flex put of it

 

In order to get the panhard bar and drag link perrelel I had to shorten the frame side bracket but a few inches to get the pangard bar to sit as high as possible and extended the axle side higher as well I know doing this weakens the axle side bracket alot but I add in some gussets to try to strengthen is back up

 

I installed the drag link and panhard bar with a few bends in it, I was really hoping to keep is straight as that would made adjusting ie alot easier but it is what it is. Yes I did cut and weld the tube instead of bending I do not have a tube bender so I'll just be guesting the bends and that will make a plenty string enough

 

Of course I had to test it out and I still have alot of room to go up but the axle is already an inch away from touching the frame and everything clears so I'm happy

 

The springs arrived and im currently
attempting to make custom adjustable coil buckets for it right now

 

The springs arrived and im currently
attempting to make custom adjustable coil buckets for it right now View attachment 3127109

What springs are you using?

 

This thing is getting real heavy

 

Fully welded inside and out