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any ideas on a cheap way to do a rear 4link

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30K views 31 replies 21 participants last post by  subpilot  
#1 ·
I'm having trouble trying to find a good way to do a rear 4link for my Toyota in a cheap way, any ideas?
 
#6 ·

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#7 ·
Check out Trailgear, all said and done I'd think that's your best bet for a complete 4 link kit.


Otherwise piecing it together your looking at:
-link material $250-$400
-tube adapters $10-$15 ea ($100)
-rod end of some sort $20-$50 ea ($100-$200)
-necessary bracketry $200-$300
-air shocks $600
-# crunching and set up time vs a tried and true set up.


If I wanted a quick way to throw a rear linked set up on my truck I'd probably go with the trail gear stuff. I know they get a lot of crap but I used all there stuff on my 4runner and I think its decent stuff at an economic friendly price. My $.02...
 
#15 · (Edited)
Check out Trailgear, all said and done I'd think that's your best bet for a complete 4 link kit.
I'd have to disagree with that one.




I bent a rear leaf at TDS last weekend and looking at rear suspension upgrade options. I'm looking hard at the 4Wheel Underground 4link setup.
Relocating/replacing the gas tank is what's really worrying me.
Can't find any links to 4Runners with their setup.
Opinions, tank ideas?
Most of the guys running my kit have 4Runners including myself. Check out these two.

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=77788.0

http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=76559.0

The ford tank is a quick and cheap solution to the gas tank problem, however I am working on something that puts the tank in front of the rear axle and fills from the stock location. I just need a few more weeks to get the bugs worked out.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Nothing cheap about a linked suspension that I have seen... joints, tube, and springs/coils/coilovers just plain add up.

About the cheapest I can think of is to find used parts - like a Jeep TJ long arm kit or the like - and re-purpose those for your uses.
 
#9 ·
Nothing cheap about a linked suspension that I have seen... joints, tube, and springs/coils/coilovers just plain add up.
You got that one right, which is one of the biggest reasons I am still on leaf springs, that and all the calculations for the correct link setups. There are a lot of things that need to be figured out to get it right.
 
#12 ·
i did my first ever 4 link with square tube and tractor joints. used zj coils and rancho shocks. that was about as cheap as i could get it. still had close to $300 into it all. a good source of info was a peterson's article from like 6 years ago on how to build a 4 link. it had a lot of entry level explanations.

having said that, the heims i used weren't the cheapo ones from tractor supply, they still had a 40k load rating. and were $40 each. i used heims at only one end of each link and poly bushings at the other. not a set up i would repeat.

otherwise the junkyard coils worked well. you can also use fj 80 coils. (front ones) rears are too big in coil diameter to easily fit.

but.... one of the best quotes from here from back in the day, was that its hard to make a good 4 link, and really easy to do a bad one. leaf springs are pretty brainless.
 
#13 · (Edited)
You can expect to spend at least $500 in brackets, link materials, bungs, and heims. I would definetly go a double triangulated 4 link. Ballistic has good prices on brackets. They have good deals on midwest heim joints. 1 inch or 1.25 heims.
Also the xj and tj coils work excellent on the rear of yota. I had 4.5 inch lift coils from rubicon express, they work great.
 
#17 ·
RuffStuff has a 4 link kit and you would have to also supply the tube and shocks but you have a pretty complete kit.

The cost is all relative... you get what you pay for.

After I get my truck smogged I will start to think about linking my setup as well. debating the 3 or 4 link route and dewbating on the ford tank setup.
 
#18 ·
"You get what you pay for" is so true. My first 4 link was on the cheap. I used 3/4" chromoly heim joints from Speedway Motors. It flexed great at the shop. However, the first time that I came down on a rock, the lower heims sheared off at the threads, rotating the axle, and bending the shocks. Fortunately, the shocks were relatively cheap (Rancho RS5000's). I immediately upgraded to a bigger and better joint. (more expensive)
 
#20 · (Edited)
instead of heims or jonny joints u can buy 1 1/4'' fine thread nuts and bolts. weld the nut on one end of the link and the bolt to the bushing(on the other end just weld on the bushing). now that is your pivot point instead of the expensive heims or jonny joint. buy a bunch of jeep wrangler leaf bushings at $3 each and some 2'' .250 tube chunks and use those on the link ends.

when welding the nut on the link end, make sure you thread the bolt in there and load it up with antiseize. dont pull the bolt out till it cools...warped threads will need to be retapped...yuck!

for the links them selves you can save a great deal of $$ using .188 2'' square tubing which is PLENTY strong and much cheaper than thick walled DOM mild steel tube. you can use this for all the link crossmembers as well

brackets are a wash. they are so cheap from vendors now a days, its almost not worth it to make yourself. but, if u have a drill, a grinder and some 1/4 plate, go for it!

junkyard 1/4 eliptical springs from a one ton truck(spring cut in half after the center pin) and a decent set of bilstien 5125s(these are worth the cost).... itll work as good as 95% of anything out there if your link mount geometry is appropriate...

my first link setup 8-10 years ago cost me abt $200 and its still on the trail today, i dont know who owns/wheels the truck currently...
 
#28 ·
instead of heims or jonny joints u can buy 1 1/4'' fine thread nuts and bolts. weld the nut on one end of the link and the bolt to the bushing(on the other end just weld on the bushing). now that is your pivot point instead of the expensive heims or jonny joint.
does this setup develop noticable play over time? would you want to use 2 nuts or a connector nut and a longer bolt or is a single nut enough engagement?

would you want to go grade 8 on the bolt at least?
 
#25 ·
Thanks for the mention guys. I think someone said it here but I should repeat it, variables are going to make each person want to do it differently due to their vehicle and driving style, there is no one right way... There are many choices to make and almost all are involved with the trails and way you drive. If you are 99% on the road your suspension should be very different from a trailer queen. Its kinda like a swaybar, some people feel comfortable turning at a very high speed while others would pee there pants turning that hard and the swaybar has to be different...
 
#31 · (Edited)
i have about $500 in my set up not including the bilestin shocks. im running 2" .250wall dom lower links and 1 3/4 uper links with 3/4 heims. factory cherokee front coils. i got all my link tabs and coil spring mounts from mudprometalworks.com dont for get you will have to move the fuel tank im running propane so its not an issue. as you can see in the pics the jeep coils flex great.i have been running this set up for about 2 years and never had an issue.i ran the 38 tsl for about 1.5 years and the 40 creepy crawlers for the other .5 years and had no issues. why your at it u can do the rear disc conversion for about $200.