What are you using now for programming?

I have a built 48RE on my truck and love it......stock converter and VB suck

Here are my trans parts list that are currently installed in the truck:
Mag-Hytech Double Deep Trans Pan
BD FleX-Plate
Billet TCS Output Shaft
Billet IE Opie Input Shaft
Goerend Valve Body
Goerend Triple Disk Torque Converter 900/300
Diesel Site External Transmission Filter Kit
Sonnax Billet 4 Ring Accumulator
HD Band Anchor: "The Power Wedge"
Billet Rear Band Servo w/ Pin
Sonnax Dodge 16% Oversize Intermediate Super Servo
Sonnax Billet Servo Cover and Billet Pin
Sonnax Front Servo Piston Cover
Billet 4.2 Apply Lever
Billet HD Strut
GM Solenoid Conversion Kit

The trans has been flawless and taken about 550ish HP without any issues or hiccups over the past 4 years

 

Based on your post, I honestly don't think you'll be happy with the auto. A manual gearbox is, in my opinion, the best choice for an older tow rig.

However... The newer trucks with the 6spd autos are really starting to get it right. I drove a 2013 ford with the 6.7 and 6R140 (6spd auto) and LOVED that thing. The converter locks up at around 15mph, and stays locked from there on out. Works a lot like the big Allisons in medium duty trucks. I was impressed.

 

My 48re in my 2004.5 CTD has almost the same build sheet as D45. Except, dave goerend speced a billet single disk for my set up. I told goerend I was planning on grossing 30k with my truck and I didn't want problems. With 170k on the truck now, its still going strong and over half those miles have been towing. I also have a PAC brake with a trans controller and a manual lock up switch. But, I know plenty of people that have built 48re's and blow them up in no time flat. Its all about knowing how to use the tranny. Keep it locked!!!
My dads 06 mega has ate one G56 and two clutches in 160k grossing 20k. And it always runs really hot.

 

I think a solidly built 48RE will outperform a clutch, but it will cost you a decent chunk

My auto runs very cool.......clean fluid, double deep trans pan, external filter kit, and properly working components

 

I have used my buddies 06 Cummins 6 speed truck to haul a truck camper and a rig on a trailer. I absolutely loved the experience. The ratios are really very good and since the common rails make so much power in stock trim, you don't need to be running it hammer down all the time. Very enjoyable to drive with a load behind it.
Travis..

 

I have an 06 with a g56. always used as a RV towing a 22k gross load. I put a temp gauge on it when it was new and it scares the shit out of me every time I take it out. I was flying up Baker grade doing 60 in 5th when I noticed 265 less than half way up. I have put the finned PTO coolers on it. added a fill plug higher on the pto cover to run 2 extra quarts of oil. ceramic coated and wrapped the exhaust pipe. I just now finished adding a pump and oil cooler to it. even so I still love to drive it. most people have no idea how hot a manual trans gets under heavy load. I have temp gauge on the diff to. had to put mag hi tec cover on it. it runs a lot cooler than the trans

 

The problem with the G56 is that it is not designed for ATF+4, that's just what Dodge put in them.

A good quality synthetic 75W90 is better for it, keeps it cooler and lessens the gear rattle.

I hotshotted my 09 before I sold it a few months back, regular GCWs from 16-26,000 without any transmission troubles. Heck, it still had the factory clutch in it!

Get a G56, then change the oil ASAP. You'll be happier in the end.

 

I was wondering if this would apply to my situation.
I have an '05 with an NV5600. I have notice a little gear rattle at low speeds with a load (think gas station/parking lots).

I love towing with manual trans....it stays in the gear you up it in :flipoff2:

 

I think my current plan of action is crossing my fingers the stock 48RE holds in long enough so I can source parts to swap it out for a G56. Buying a new to me truck is out of the question. I've even toyed with the idea of trading mine in for another early model year 3rd gen, another 04 or 05. Some dealers are asking $37,000 for an '05 with ~100k miles. You've got to be ****ing kidding me. Jesus. These things stickered new for $40k or so. ****, I can buy a 2012 for that. People are ****ing retarded.

Surely people must be paying these absurd prices, otherwise there wouldn't be so many trucks this stupidly priced.

 

I'm sure you know this but....

If you do swap to a g56 make sure you get a late model. I couldnt imagine a 05-06 G56 with 4.10s. My 05 with 3.73s and 35s is geared pretty low, perfect for towing really but empty it could use 3.50s.

And if it helps you sleep better by truck has 95,000 on it. Most of that has been with as dual disk clutch and the last 40k has been with compound turbos, bigger injectores, etc etc. The truck had its first programmer before it hit 1,000 miles and I have towed well over 20k lbs many many times for hours at a time. So far, not trans issues what so ever.

 

Buy a truck with some miles on it. Your going to be doing brakes and suspension on it anyhow lol. Might as well get it cheap and then put nice $$ parts on it, not oem or china shit

2007 DODGE RAM 3500 CUMMINS TURBO DIESEL

Nice one that needs injectors probably
06 Dodge 3500 SLT Crew Cab Diesel LOW MILES!

 

The G56 behind the 6.7's have a .74 6th, the 5.9's have a .79 6th.

 

Wondered what the transition period was for the different gear ratios. Thanks!

 

What's your RPM's at 60? The truck gets such terrible fuel mileage towing 65 or over, honestly I don't think it will matter too much. The 5th wheel just acts like a huge brick in the wind.

 

~1700rpm, but all my friends have 3.55's and 3.73's as well so the comparison to 47/48re was direct as opposed to those with 4.10's like yourself.

 

Nope, VA, next to the black hole that is DC

 

If you do want the swap, here is a decent write up on the G56

2004.5 48re to g56 swap - with pictures! - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

 

Yeah, I stumbled across that yesterday. Nice thread. I like how just having a Smarty Jr flashed is good enough for the electronics. Makes life a lot easier.

Still not sure about the route to go with acquiring a G56. Most core charges are ~750. A reman'd G56 and a reman'd 48RE are close in the ballpark as far as costs go. So, I'd be looking at $1200 for a clutch set up, $500 for the Smarty, and $700 in additional shit (Shortening drive shaft, interior pieces, input shaft for t-case, crossmember). So basically about $3000 more than just buying a built 48RE. Definitely not chump change, but shit, I'd pay more than $3k on tax/title/tags even I would trade my truck in and buy another 04/05 with a G56 from the factory. Not to mention the rest of my truck is set up just the way I want it.

On one hand, it would be nice to save money and buy a used G56. On the other hand, it would be really nice buying a reman'd unit that I know I wouldn't have any problems with (Well, a lot less chance than buying a random used one).

Goal is to milk the current 48RE to last for the next year or so. That'll give me time to acquire the money needed to save up for a G56. Ideally, I'd make the swap BEFORE my 48RE completely shits the bed...but of course things never go as planned. :homer:

 

Not a 48RE, but I have a built 47RE (Goerend) in my 02 dodge. The converter comes on a lot lower in the rpm range, but its still a torque converter so it will waste some rpm from a stop. Solution is less throttle to get moving. Overall I like the way the trans works, I just don't like the huge jump between 3rd and OD but that's not the builder's fault. I'd like a common rail truck with a G56 but that means signing up for more monthly payments and I can't justify that for a truck that sits 95% of the time.

 

I have an 04 dually 4x4 4 10 gears auto trans 140,000 miles on it I bought it with 67,000 on it I put a deep pan on it then..I would love to put an eaton fuller 10 speed in it when this trans takes a shit...not only for the cool factor but just so I would never have to do a trans job on it again I drive a big rig for work so shifting is no biggy to me..that is another option if you have not thought of it yet..peace...p.s I plan on keeping this truck till the wheels fall off..

 

And something else - With these companies that sell reman'd G56's, how do you know if you *really* got a 07.5 or later G56? I mean, yeah, I would just tell them my truck is a 08 or 09, but how do you verify you got the more desirable 6th gear?

On a separate note altogether, what's the G56 assembly like? Say I find a craigslist G56 for $500. Could I pay a tranny shop to rebuild it, and replace 6th gear with the higher 6th gear?

 

Its been a long time since I looked into the differences but I am 99% sure you can not just swap 6th. Most, if not all the gear ratios are different.

Again, not for sure but I think you can tell by the BOM what ratios it has. The newer g56 is also called the g56r. A google search should turn up plenty of reading.

In your other post you say a G56 will cost you 3k more. That may be but I dont see it only because what I would call a built auto would be in the 5-7k range. Not trying to be argumentative but did you mean built or rebuilt? To me thats two totally different things.

 

I guess "built" is a very subjective term, but I would be looking at the towing package from FirePunk:

firepunk

So that's $2800, which is in the ballpark for a stock, reman'd G56. I've read a fair amount of horror stories from guys blowing up their G56's. Then they go on to talk about their repeated clutch dumps and 800HP engines. Well...no ****ing shit your fully billet 48RE holds up better than a stock G56. Not to mention I don't wear a flat bill hat, so I don't do any of the typical Douchy Dodge owner shit. :flipoff2: Most [power] modifications my truck would see would be the Smarty Jr. I don't care about truck pulls. I don't care about horsepower numbers. All I wanna do is tow my damn trailer with good reliability. Add in the exhaust brake for better stopping performance, and drive the shit out of it.

 

aside from the heat I love my g56(06). my truck never moves with less than 22k gross. the gears are in the right place for towing heavy loads. the truck never seems work that hard on 6 percent hills. I have got from 6 mpg(texas head wind) to 13.5mpg(tail wind) with an averge of 11.5 at 65mph. my lance has the same profile as a 5th wheel I think when it comes to aerodynamics. mine is a 2 wd with 3.92 gears. in case your interested I have a NV5600 from an 04 complete from the block bolts to the drive shaft that can be delivered to Fredericksburg in oct. block adapter, fly wheel. clutch, trans, drive shaft, starter, I think the clutch slave cylinder. 150k when I pulled it out of a repo

 

I have over 300k miles on my '05 with the G56, still on the clutch I bought the truck with @ 70k miles (could be original for all I know). Straight pipe exhaust but otherwise stock.

As it's been said, the ratios could be better for unloaded highway driving but I love towing with it. When I'm not doing jeep stuff I tow a skid steer & tractor around pretty often on a 14k bumper pull trailer and it kicks ass.

I should probably change the fluid in it (haven't done it, ever). And I guess I'm glad I never put a temp gauge on it either. :laughing:

Still quiet, shifts perfect, no complaints. At 300k the rest of the truck is falling apart around the drivetrain but overall it's been very good to me.

 

I kinda went through the same thing you are now experiencing.

I had a 2005 Dually with 5.9 and 48RE... I loved that truck... But then we bought a 37' triple axle toy hauler that was right at 16K loaded.

I never really worried about the trans handling the load.... And once up to speed on the highway, you basically use direct or OD based upon how hilly it happens to be - and this is pretty much true no matter what transmission you have.

The problem was the fact that I drive around a lot on back roads... Low speed limit - think 35-45-55 mph....These back roads happen to be hilly as well... So this means the truck needs a lot of shifting gears.

With the 48RE, there simply aren't enough ratios between 1st and direct... Basically 3 ratios 1-2-3(direct). Most of the time was spent in 2nd or 3rd (direct).. And it was never the "right gear" anyway.

In March 2007 I traded my 05 on a brand new 07 with 6.7 and G56. I'm happy! Between 1st and direct, I have 5 ratios now (1-2-3-4-5direct).

The problem I (and i think you will find this out) was experience would not be fixed with a "built" 48re... For me, it simply needs more ratios.

And while towing that weight in the hilly terrain, the factory exhaust brake was an awesome bonus.

Still have the 07 and it has 62K miles on it. Based upon the fact that it is not my daily driver, nearly all of those 62K miles are towing duty.

 

^ Yup, I agree totally. More and more I think about it, the more I'm dead set on a 6 speed.

Dealer just lowered the price on the dually I drove. I just don't want to drive a 8' bed/dually as a DD. And it's 2wd. And it doesn't have the factory exhaust brake. It'd have to be exactly what I want (CCSB, SRW, factory exhaust brake) for me to consider selling mine and buying another truck.

And what's the deal with dirty ass trucks at dealerships? My '04 is much cleaner on the inside than a lot of these '07+ ones on the lot. :shaking:

 

Update. Found a G56 out of an '07 that was behind a 6.7 for $1850. Gonna go check it out today and make sure it's the "AE" tranny with the better 6th gear. Has 165k on it.

Thoughts on the price/mileage?

 

If it's an 07 it should be.

If it was behind a 6.7L it will be.

Good to double check, but I'd be confident provided it came from the truck mentioned.

 

Bumping an old thread.

So a few of you have similar built 48RE's, what was the build cost? From my other thread it looks like Dad's 93 Cummins may get sold and he's trying to decide if he wants to jump into an Auto so my Mom can drive it. He tows a 26 foot travel trailer and a flat bed trailer with old IH iron or a tractor on it. It's also his commuter, but his commute is less then 15 miles. I figure with the pulling he does and buying used he may just want to figure a heavy duty rebuild into the price of the truck.

 

Depending on his converter choice and if he wants full billet shafts (3 total)

Mine was around $6k installed