Same rear axles?

 

Looking at the RA parts list, yes........

Thought maybe the 3500 would be a FF but ??

 

Weird, would expect the 3500 to be FF.

 

See that earlier years on car-part.com had FF and 3.73`s.

If its brand new I believe GM only uses the 9.5'' SF in the Passenger vans since 2017 MY. That's what I`m finding

The cargo vans should still have the 10.5'' option but it maybe only one the dually cutaways. Never looked at those but that's not the kind of investment Im looking for.

If buying it new just get a 3500 you will get high gross rating which means 1000lbs more payload as for a on the door. Unless price is retard different prices wise then the 2500 will work for what you want. Once out of warranty bolt in an earlier 14 bolt 10.5'' or 11.5'' out of earlier van, they bolt right in GM has not changed the vans in 20 years lol

The issue is what are you towing? If you load out the 2500 van to GVWR of 8600 you can "legally" only tow 7400lbs then. But with the 3500 at 9600 GVWR you limited to 6400lbs "legally'' granted you can put 500-1000 on the hitch too with WD and be fine with a 8-9k trailer just watch the for crap in the van over loading it.

Figure Jeep and trailer is around 7,000. Don't plan on putting much more than a place to sleep. No fancy cabinets and running water.

The seats will suck. And if a high-revving gas engine in a pickup bothers you, prepare to hear it at many more decibels.

Shit Im deaf now.......:laughing:

vans are awesome, enjoy whichever you end up with.

Everything being the same, i'd opt for the 3500 if the price is within a couple hundred bucks.

for more than a couple hundred bucks, i'd go with the 2500. towing a standard rig on a standard trailer or towing a camper isn't going to tax it.

cargo van seats aren't always the best, but the great thing about vans is the blank canvas aspect. people are already judging you, might as well do what you want

The price diff is around 1,000 bucks +/-.

The blank canvas is the attractive part. Insulation and some nice ceiling/walls can be done for a reasonable price and without loading up the weight factor. Set it up with some good tunes. Add a awning off the side. Throw the cooler and a backpack inside and go.

Don't need no solar panels or fancy dancy shit.

 

If its brand new I believe GM only uses the 9.5'' SF in the Passenger vans since 2017 MY.

The cargo vans should still have the 10.5'' option but it maybe only one the dually cutaways.

If buying it new just get a 3500 you will get high gross rating which means 1000lbs more payload as for a on the door. Unless price is retard different prices wise then the 2500 will work for what you want. Once out of warranty bolt in an earlier 14 bolt 10.5'' or 11.5'' out of earlier van, they bolt right in GM has not changed the vans in 20 years lol

The issue is what are you towing? If you load out the 2500 van to GVWR of 8600 you can "legally" only tow 7400lbs then. But with the 3500 at 9600 GVWR you limited to 6400lbs "legally'' granted you can put 500-1000 on the hitch too with WD and be fine with a 8-9k trailer just watch the for crap in the van over loading it.

 

The seats will suck. And if a high-revving gas engine in a pickup bothers you, prepare to hear it at many more decibels.

 

vans are awesome, enjoy whichever you end up with.

Everything being the same, i'd opt for the 3500 if the price is within a couple hundred bucks.

for more than a couple hundred bucks, i'd go with the 2500. towing a standard rig on a standard trailer or towing a camper isn't going to tax it.

cargo van seats aren't always the best, but the great thing about vans is the blank canvas aspect. people are already judging you, might as well do what you want

 

I'd ask this guy and see.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/44080930-post1608.html

 

My understanding is they went to 3.42s with the 6 speed tranny, with 4l80e until 2009ish, they mostly got 3.73

Fwiw my 2006 3500 12 pass has a ff 70 variant that isn't conducive for upgrades, but with individual speed sensors, I'm kinda stuck with it.

My basic understanding of earlier vans, brakes, suspension, etc, was the same between 8 lug 2500 and 3500, maybe a sf60 in 2500, the big changes came with drw

Also, with them not changing for years, you might consider an older van and saving a chunk o cash

 

Finding GM is moving some of the option packages around a little.

Cruise, tilt and steering wheel controls on a 2500 might be only cruise and tilt on a 3500. I'm sure at the end you can equip both the same. Need to sit down and "build" both and see the price difference.

Right now a `17 1500 with the max towing package (12,000 lbs and 3.73`s) does the job. Payload on a 2500 Express goes up over ~ 1,000 over what I have now.

A bit disappointed the 3500 doesn't have more brakes or a FF though.

Time to build both out and see.

Thanks !!

 

I have an 06 2500 and a 16 3500. Rear springs are different, that’s it. Both vans are cargo and diesel. I think all the new vans have semi floating rear axles now, mine have full floating axles, the 06 has a 70s and the 16 has the 14 bolt.
My 3500 has tilt and cruise, 06 has nothing.
The 06 has 280,000 on it now and issues were, 1 drivers side wheel bearing at 160k, I did inner and outer tie rods at around 200k, and it needs upper ball joints now but they aren’t bad but some movement. Idler and pitman arm twice.
Brakes last 100k but considering all my city miles I’d say that’s good.
I grease it every 5k and oil at 10k.
They tow like any 3/4 ton 6.0 gas truck, I think you’ll be fine towing anything under 10k

 

Thanks Joey, good info on longevity and habits. Going to buy rather than lease.

These new PU’s cost more than my first house.

Living in the rust belt we are seeing people still making payments on a PU with rusted out rockers and cab corners.

A basic WT PU with a tow capacity I need STARTS at what a cargo van fitted out with a few decent options costs.

Maybe I’m comparing apples to oranges ?
Don’t know but as mentioned, “blank canvas”. Can make it into anything I want. Then if I get tired of the set up it won’t be hard to change it up a second time.

 

If it wasn’t for rust I wouldn’t have had to buy my 16 van.

 

Throw everything inside the van and it stays dry unlike a pickup truck. Pull over somewhere and take a nap in a real bed without getting out. Vans are great.

I have a '17 gmc cargo 2500 at work I could check the axle for you. The 4.8 is pretty slow and the 6 speed downshifts slow. I can stand on the gas pedal and it doesn't go anywhere. I think if someone tuned all that bullshit out it would probably run as good as a 4.8 from 20 years ago. :laughing:

I don't know if I'd buy a new passenger van, there are so many used ones at auctions for sale.

I think my boss said he paid $30k for it. A lot of the cargo vans don't have much options. Cruise control is a must in a van or your foot gets cramped in 5 minutes. The GM vans have more seat room than the older Ford Econolines. Seems like a lot of companies around here are buying the GMs instead of going with the Transits. Use to be everybody had the Econolines.

 

Seems like a lot of companies around here are buying the GMs instead of going with the Transits. Use to be everybody had the Econolines.

No shit. The transits are European garbage. Europe loves them because they only have other shitty euro-vans to compare to. Compared to the E-series and GM vans you would have to be a complete moron to buy a Transit that's out of warranty. They are simply not as overbuilt as the domestic truck-like vans and do not hold up to abuse as well. They're fine if you're running an upscale airport shuttle service and plan to sell the van after 5yr but nobody doing real work should buy a euro van. They're just as hard to work on and break twice as often.

 

So the to this end, has any one used or messed with the nissan NV3500's? I know someday I will need to replace my excursion as the family truckster....and a van, esp 4x4 van might get the nod if it can come with 10k gvw....