The 44 is probly your best choice, but if I were you going through all this I would look into a D60. With the 60 you can use stock shafts and still be ahead of the game. It will cost a little more than a d44, but not as much as a custom 9". I went to a d44 and then to a 60 and I would say if I did it all again I would start with the 60.

When you get tired of your 37's the 60 will be upgradeable enough to take whatever you want to throw at it.
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Live Sex

 

All of your options except for #4 cost the same or more than a dana 60. Look at extreme axle sales and price their 60's. I have a 44 right now and as soon as I get a little more dinero it is going to a set of 60's. Besides, if you plan on running 37's, you are pretty much at a 44's limitations. I'm not even going to mention how much a waste of money doing any upgrades to a 30 is when considering 37's. Good luck.

 

You mean some of these....

:smokin:

I have both a HP60 and a FF 14 Bolt for a different project but wanting to keep this one a little simpler and more of a DD. Doesn't seam to be going that way... I already have a 8.8 with gears and a locker on order and was getting ready to order stuff for the D30 and wanted to get a second opinion.

I am getting mixed feedback from the threads I have read. Mrblane and Bill Vista, I believe, both once ran a HPD30 with 35+ tires and had great luck. Anyone have any experience with a HPD30 and 35"+ tires?

Thanks cdub0451 and comeonstart for the info.

 

Budget??????
If you are on a budget go CTM joints and superior 30 kit.

If not go the 9", It is very strong and very light. The only problem with a 9" is they tend to bend pretty easy. I have ran the 9" front and rear on jeeps for years and they work great.

 

That 30 can be strong , but running 37 inch tires , your pushing it big time . You better be the smoothest driver around .

 

^^DJ Has got a point^^

 

I have a D44 from a wagoneer and run 37s. The buildup was about $1200, but a good part of that was for brackets for a TJ. For a YJ it would be a lot cheaper, and the outers are stronger than a Rubicon 44. I'm running the stock shafts, but so far they have help up fine.

 

60/9
Its not much more expensive than a 9'' w/ 44 or 30 kncukles on it. It will be just as strong as a 60, lighter, and cheaper than building a equal 60 (assuming you were cutting oune down) There are many other 9'' builders than Currie.

Or option 5: Cromo shafts in the 30 $450 or so. YOu can still carry your stock shafts if you do bust one and get you home or wheeling again fast. We all know D30 shafts are easy to trail fix. This way you can have some fun until you save some $ or are ready for a big boy axle.

 

I think I am going to run Alloy USA chomoly 27 spline shafts and keep spares. If one breaks, replace is with a stocker on the trail and send the broke one back and take advantage of the "no questions asked" warranty. Speaking of that, how are Alloy USA’s “no questions asked” warranty policy?

 

That sounds like a good plan. Truss it up real good and run a 4.xx something gear and you might be ok.

 

I have been running a HPD30 with Superior evo shafts, yukon super joints, detroit, 4.56 and 35s for several years.

I never fail to be amazed by how much punishment this weeny axle can take. I do 3.5 - 4.5 trails most weekends. I have broken all kinds of other stuff but the D30 is still hanging in there.

 

Bet your a smooth driver , and don't loft the front end much .

 

Or you could just go ahead and put the one ton axles under it. How are they gonna make it not able to be a daily driver. Then you wouldn't have to worry about changing axles while running 37's. You ain't gonna break them. Unless you do some crazy Duke boys creek jumping shit.

 

I'm thinking the 4.88 is going to be your concern more than the D30. Any chance you can go 4.56?
I skipped the Super 30 kit and went with an OX and 27 spline Alloy axles. I'm banking on borrowing a trail spare if I break one. Oh, I don't wheel hard either
All this and a D35 (super) too, and 36 Irok's. It's only a time bomb untill it breaks

 

I say waggy 44 and upgraded shafts. I'm running a Ford F250 44 with late 80's Chevy outers, moly shafts (Warn outer, Dutchman inner), 5.13's, yukon joints and 38" TSL's. No breakage yet. I'm mostly in the rocks, alright always in the rocks.

Find a waggy 44 (they're a dime a dozen), chromo shafts for them are relatively cheap, gears and parts are abundant and cheap and many interchangeable (ie just run chevy outers, knuckle out) and you can do hi steer for cheap which is a big deal in the rocks (I'm sure you know that).

 

I go easy on my Waggy 44 with the original 21 year old shafts and joints in my TJ with 37's. I have done all of Tellico with no breakage after 2 1/2 years. Did I mention I go easy on it. It all depends on the driver. If I start breaking I will go to Chromolys and CTMs.

 

Polish the turd and you get a stronger piece of shit.

Do all the work to swap in a D44 then you'll just end up polishing that piece of shit too.

Then you'll get mad and rip it all out and swap in 1tons.

 

i say just make it a super 30. I have a super 30 and it works great with 35's. Never broken my damn 30-orginal owner too!. :shaking:

 

The down side to the super 30 kit is it makes the R&P the weak point especially if your going 4.88s. I would say just do 27 slpine alloys & carry spares.

 

I beat the **** out of my HP-30 with 35" STT's 4.56/4:1 T-CASE/3550/4.0 and have yet to brake it. I run stock shafts and spicer u-joints, with an open carior. I regularly jump and shock load it with out any problems. I have rock raced with it and run ingreds revenge and green momba both with out braking.

on the other hand I have broken my 44 rear shafts, carior, e-locker, spider gears, ring gear, and housing so may be its just luck but I trust my Turdy

(its out of a 97 XJ with the bigger x760 joints) and hardend yukon gears.

 

Ok
I heard from everyone D30 are junk. Well mine in DD and 30% rocks and trails. I have a buggy on Mogs and didn't need another rig like that. I am running 35's with chromo's, super joints, 4.56, aussie locker, and love every minute.
In the rear I have super 35 with detroit and love it.

On the other hand with 37's you are pushing the issue.
I think it would hold up but you can't beat it like you do a 60.

People usually forget to tell you if you go to 60's you might s well buy new wheels and tires. If you are building a full on rock rig than heck go for it.

 

D30

hey m@ thanks for the thread I to am looking to build a DD yj/cj but swapping out d35 for 8.25 from xj. I plan on running 4.56 and 35's and a ARB with alloy shafts. before I put one tons on my old cj I ran the stock d30 with 4.88 arb and 760x shafts and warn hub kit. I beat on it all the time and NEVER had a problem at paragon with it. Besides a 60 will add a lot of weight to your rig.

 

i laugh at everybody when they talk shit about 44s, super 30s, and super 35s. some people say they break 44s with 33s, and some people wheel the shit out of a stock d35 on 35s. it all depends on how you wheel. i have a friend that has a xj with a welded 35 and a locked 30 front, with 33" TSLs, and he goes EVERYWHERE we go. (that includes a YJ with 38s)

im runnin a 44 f/r and they are holdin up very well.

BUT!! im not going to lie. if i was to do it all over again, i would build a 60/14bt.

 

I ran a stock d30 and d35 with 4.88 and detriot lockers for 6 years with anywhere from 33 up to 36's broke 2 front axles never a rear and did everything plus parts of the hammer all of the rubicon minus little sluce
and fordyce and lots of stuff in between. drive right and u will be fine
drive with the skinny pedal and u will break d60's just my 2 cents