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Discussion starter · #22 · (Edited)
Nothing wrong with a 14b rear except that you absolutely have to shave it. Though if you pick up a 05+ 60 front, the sterling rear will match up with it better in terms of width and lug pattern. Plus it's already disc brakes.

I have found a few guys asking the matching 10.5 sterling rear. But it is tough to find gears and lockers for? And is it as strong as a 14b? Are they a Full float?
 
I have found a few guys asking the matching 10.5 sterling rear. But it is tough to find gears and lockers for? And is it as strong as a 14b? Are they a Full float?
Gears and lockers are readily available for the Sterlings, but overall aftermarket support is not what it is for the 14bolt. In my opinion, they are very under appreciated axles. They are cheap, plentiful and strong like 14 bolts.

They are full floating, and whether they are stronger or weaker than a 14 bolt is debatable. The main advantage the 14 bolt has is the third pinion bearing, but the Sterling has a lot better ground clearance. Both have 10.5" ring gears and the axle shafts are comparable. Personally, if running a Superduty 60 front, I wouldn't even consider running a 14 bolt in the rear. I have seen bone stock Sterlings take beatings with V8 power and 40"+ tires, and have never personally seen one break. Hell, they put them in trucks from the factory that put down over 900ftlbs and weigh 7,000lbs+.

Here's an interesting comparison Fourwheeler did a while back. Not really scientific, but gives some insight none the less. Sterling Reputation - Axle Upgrade Options - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Gears and lockers are readily available for the Sterlings, but overall aftermarket support is not what it is for the 14bolt. In my opinion, they are very under appreciated axles. They are cheap, plentiful and strong like 14 bolts.

They are full floating, and whether they are stronger or weaker than a 14 bolt is debatable. The main advantage the 14 bolt has is the third pinion bearing, but the Sterling has a lot better ground clearance. Both have 10.5" ring gears and the axle shafts are comparable. Personally, if running a Superduty 60 front, I wouldn't even consider running a 14 bolt in the rear. I have seen bone stock Sterlings take beatings with V8 power and 40"+ tires, and have never personally seen one break. Hell, they put them in trucks from the factory that put down over 900ftlbs and weigh 7,000lbs+.

Here's an interesting comparison Fourwheeler did a while back. Not really scientific, but gives some insight non the less. Sterling Reputation - Axle Upgrade Options - 4-Wheel & Off-Road Magazine
Interesting...


It’s just a v6 maybe v8 Toyota crawler. Not a buggy. I’ll have a look at that article

I can get a super duty front HP 60 and matching 10.5 sterling from the same truck for $500...
 
Interesting...


It’s just a v6 maybe v8 Toyota crawler. Not a buggy. I’ll have a look at that article

I can get a super duty front HP 60 and matching 10.5 sterling from the same truck for $500...
I would jump on that if I were you assuming the axles are complete and in good condition. I paid $750 for my matched set from a 2007 Super Duty.

Seriously, the Sterling is a stout axle, I would not hesitate to run one in an application like yours.
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
I would jump on that if I were you assuming the axles are complete and in good condition. I paid $750 for my matched set from a 2007 Super Duty.

Seriously, the Sterling is a stout axle, I would not hesitate to run one in an application like yours.

They’re complete apart from one rotor. Also come with 4 2008 superduty aluminum wheels. So it’s not looking like a bad deal. That article shows the 14b having some more advantages over the sterling. There appears to be enough aftermarket bits available for the sterling to make it an ok axle though. Not to mention they would be the same width and have the same bolt pattern.

I’m not seeing much for gear for the sterling though. Nothing lower than 4.88
 
They’re complete apart from one rotor. Also come with 4 2008 superduty aluminum wheels. So it’s not looking like a bad deal. That article shows the 14b having some more advantages over the sterling. There appears to be enough aftermarket bits available for the sterling to make it an ok axle though. Not to mention they would be the same width and have the same bolt pattern.

I’m not seeing much for gear for the sterling though. Nothing lower than 4.88
Again, take that article with a grain of salt, and more as a photo comparison of some of the bits and pieces. There was nothing really factual about the comparison other than one part looks better or worse than the other. Like I said, the only clear advantage the 14 bolt has is the pinion. The Sterling has better ground clearance, a matching bolt pattern, and disc brakes. The Dana 60 will break before the Sterling does.

You can get 5.38s for a Sterling, which I believe is the case for the 14 bolt as well.

Edit: Link to 5.38s: https://www.summitracing.com/search...ype/ring-and-pinion-gears/axle-model/ford-10-25-in/ring-and-pinion-ratio/5-38-1

Don't worry about them being 10.25" gears. They will install into a 10.5" housing as long as you use a bearing kit that matches the gear set. There is not a major strength difference between the 10.25" and 10.5" gear sets.

Edit #2: By the way, if the pinion issue really concerns you, you can locate a 2011+ Sterling since those have 37 spline pinions as opposed to the earlier 31 spline pinions. Unfortunately, I don't know if anyone makes a gear lower than 4.88s for those yet.
 
Another for the Sterling, wide ratio of gears available and they all fit the same carrier as they have no break, those things are tough too and can be had factory with an E-locker in like the 2010 and newer rigs .

And I've had several apart with the axle shafts leaning up against the shop and they were always the same length, new old didn't matter .

Ballistic makes a shave kit if you wanna go crazy .
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Thanks for the info fellas.


Here’s another question if anyone knows. I found a good price on a 2012 f350 front d60.

It’s from a dually. But it is the same axles as an SRW?? I’ve come to the xonclusion that the brakes are bigger. Is everything else the same? C’s? Width(without the hub adapters)?

Not sure if I can use this axle or not. I could get an srw too but it’s buried in the back of their yard and impossible to get at.
 
Thanks for the info fellas.


Here’s another question if anyone knows. I found a good price on a 2012 f350 front d60.

It’s from a dually. But it is the same axles as an SRW?? I’ve come to the xonclusion that the brakes are bigger. Is everything else the same? C’s? Width(without the hub adapters)?

Not sure if I can use this axle or not. I could get an srw too but it’s buried in the back of their yard and impossible to get at.
Iirc, everything is the same except there are "wheel spacers" bolted on. You can remove them and replace the coarse thread studs with fine thread, to end up srw.
 
X2 if you can get a good deal on that scoop it, they are a bit wider after 05, ditch the dually adapters as mentioned and run wheel spacers on the rear if you wanna match up width, you can run the coarse thread 99-00 lug nuts if you don't want to change the studs .
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Iirc, everything is the same except there are "wheel spacers" bolted on. You can remove them and replace the coarse thread studs with fine thread, to end up srw.
Ok so, after looking at the parts numbers on rock auto I have found that

Brake calipers are different, as well as pads
Unit bearing are different.


I’m a little worried. I told the guy to go ahead and cut out the drw axle for me. As the srw one is buried in the back do their yard and no eta on getting it cut out. Both are super cheap.

Wtf would the difference be in the unit bearing be?!
 
Ok so, after looking at the parts numbers on rock auto I have found that

Brake calipers are different, as well as pads
Unit bearing are different.


I’m a little worried. I told the guy to go ahead and cut out the drw axle for me. As the srw one is buried in the back do their yard and no eta on getting it cut out. Both are super cheap.

Wtf would the difference be in the unit bearing be?!
Probably the studs since the drw has course thread studs to hold the adapter on and srw is fine thread.
 
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