i,ve got a set of 1995 fj80 axles with e-lockers with all the fixings (coils, arms, ect.)that i'm wanting to put under an fj40 but i havent been able to find a writeup or info using the search. i'm not sure as of now if i'll go with the factory coil setup, link setup or just a soa or a set of lift springs. anybody have any info on the swap? i know i'll have to do some fender mods as well due to the width differance. its going to be my winter project and i'm trying to get my ducks in a row and figure out my options, pro's and cons ect. any help at all would be great. i'm in no rush as i havent even picked up the fj40 yet. hopefully i'll be picking it up this weekend.
sandmann
I've got an 80 front that I'm debating about using.. Steering other than hydro is gonna be weird, unless you can work around the low drag-link mount. (Only one "high steer kit", and it requires some sort of machining, and I've not heard good things about their turnaround time.)
Using the factory links would most likely be the easiest way to get the axle under the rig, and would probably work pretty well for a moderate rig. leafs in the front would make things tough because of steering.
Can't give you much real-world as I haven't even rolled the axle under the rig for mockup, until I decide if it's going to get used.
Using the factory links would most likely be the easiest way to get the axle under the rig, and would probably work pretty well for a moderate rig. leafs in the front would make things tough because of steering.
Can't give you much real-world as I haven't even rolled the axle under the rig for mockup, until I decide if it's going to get used.
That's gonna be a sweet setup.
As far as the stock front radius arms and coils it probably depends on the kind of wheelin you're gonna do. If you want REAL good flex I think an extended radius arm and link would probably be in order. That might end up being a bit envolved though, depending on how knowledgable you are about link suspension.
I chose to go with leaf springs on my rig. Partly because of ease and because of cost. My front didn't come with the links or coils, but I probably wouldn't have used them anyway. My thought was coil overs and custom links, but coil overs are pretty pricey.
The steering is definetly the bigger issue. You do NOT have to do any machining to the knuckle IF you have the ABS port. The company that makes the arms uses the abs hole for the 3rd bolt to hold the arm on, since there is only a 2 bolt top cap.
I did a home brew setup. I built my own arms, keeping the tie rod behind the axle and the drag link in front. I had the cap machined, then welded my arms to the cap. Then I welded 1/2 plates verticly against the outside of the steering arms. The plates are drilled, slightly oversized, and the arms are drilled and tapped. This takes most of the lateral force out of the 2 bolts. The holes are slightly oversized to allow for shimming.
I also consider keeping most of the lower arms and and building some kind of 2 piece arm setup from the top and bottom.
If you don't really do any hardcore rock crawling and you stay with a coil or coil over setup you could easily get away with just running the stock steering setup.
It's a little work figuring it all out, but I love my 80 front end and I really like how big the birfs are.
Good luck
As far as the stock front radius arms and coils it probably depends on the kind of wheelin you're gonna do. If you want REAL good flex I think an extended radius arm and link would probably be in order. That might end up being a bit envolved though, depending on how knowledgable you are about link suspension.
I chose to go with leaf springs on my rig. Partly because of ease and because of cost. My front didn't come with the links or coils, but I probably wouldn't have used them anyway. My thought was coil overs and custom links, but coil overs are pretty pricey.
The steering is definetly the bigger issue. You do NOT have to do any machining to the knuckle IF you have the ABS port. The company that makes the arms uses the abs hole for the 3rd bolt to hold the arm on, since there is only a 2 bolt top cap.
I did a home brew setup. I built my own arms, keeping the tie rod behind the axle and the drag link in front. I had the cap machined, then welded my arms to the cap. Then I welded 1/2 plates verticly against the outside of the steering arms. The plates are drilled, slightly oversized, and the arms are drilled and tapped. This takes most of the lateral force out of the 2 bolts. The holes are slightly oversized to allow for shimming.
I also consider keeping most of the lower arms and and building some kind of 2 piece arm setup from the top and bottom.
If you don't really do any hardcore rock crawling and you stay with a coil or coil over setup you could easily get away with just running the stock steering setup.
It's a little work figuring it all out, but I love my 80 front end and I really like how big the birfs are.
Good luck
check out Darrens 40
he fitted FJ 80 axles to his cruiser, real neat too
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12325
he fitted FJ 80 axles to his cruiser, real neat too
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=12325
I have a 74 that uses front and rear E- locked 1997 lexus axles on my FJ 40 and it works amazingly well. Proffitt's Cruisers did mine (SOA ,55 front springs in front with custom cantilever shackles for amazing articulation and 4 link rear. Wheelbase 103.5 and not scary sideways or vertical anymore. Body looks just like a jeep unlimited with extra steel put in between the rear wheel wells. Looks like a stock body until it is pointed out. I can't say enough great things about Jeremiah Proffitt and his crew. Send me an email at neilomalley@comcast.net and I'll send you pics.
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