Buy a sawzall.

Use it


Edit:.is it 2wd?


Sent from my mudwhistle via lemmiwinks.

 

You will have to cut your bumper and fender quite a bit to make that work. I have lifted a lot of 2nd gens and have yet to see one with wide 38s on wide wheels with only 3.5" lift. Skinny 37s would be doable on the right wheels but you are gonna really need a lot more clearance than just the control arms to make this work.

And that's just for street driving. Useable off road? Not unless you lock the suspension down and only do straight line mud drags. Why not just lift it higher and do it right? You don't need to go that high. 5" or 6" with long arms and a high clearance front bumper would make it doable. My truck is only lifted 4.5" and I'm clearing 37s like they are 35s. Tons of room. But it's because of my arms and bumper.

 

"i plan on making longer control arms to push the front end out 3" and possibly putting a bend in the lower arm for tire clearance if it needs it.."

if you are not a professional fabricator, this sounds like a recipe for disaster.

 

i have a road rhino bumper up front right now that i plan on tapering the ends up to clear the tires and have already cut the rear of the front fenders back.. i still need to cut that seam and push it in a little more. the reason for not going 4.5" up is i just wont have the funds to get a long arm setup for quite some time.. i could afford some 4.5" coils but wouldnt be able to do the long arms right with proper ends...i already have some bushings i could use

 

the reason for not going 4.5" up is i just wont have the funds to get a long arm setup for quite some time..

Perhaps you should wait and do it right rather than half-ass it now.

 

I'm fairly certain that I have read on this board somewhere that 1.5 inches is about as far forward as you can go with the front axle from stock with out having to move the steering box, don't quote me on that. On another note, in the show us your dodges thread there is a dude with a stock v10 2500 with 37s stuffed under it, and some monster trimming.

 

3" forward is pretty common. It requires the right track bar bracket which he has.

I used to have 37s under my V10 with only a 2" spacer up front and some moderate trimming, but it still rubbed due to the width of the tires and wheels. That's why 38s won't work. They are too wide. He needs more lift to clear them. And that's just to fit the tires. Gearing and brakes and front end reliability are all going to be issues.

 

Djgaston can you please give me more information on that track bar? This is my truck. 5 inch super lift springs, rockman adjustable arms, im almost at 2 inches and the track bar is close. Being able to go to 3 inches would be nice

 

im not to worried about gearing right now since it has 4.10 and truck is a chipped cummins. dj how did your truck ride with the skyjacker arms with the 4.5" kit? im thinking of maybe just getting the 4.5" coils and making some control arms that are +3 from the skyjacker arms.

 

It was okay, about like stock. The Skyjacker arms are only 1" longer so it didn't do much for me. Don't focus too hard on being +3", I think you will really want to be closer to +1.5" or +2" at that height to have the best clearance and ride. Typically you only go 3" forward when you have more lift and the axle is pulled back more, plus you have more room if the tires aren't perfectly centered in the fender. With yours being so low, it will be critical to have the right placement. Adjustable arms will help make that very easy. I just happen to know a place to get some... :laughing:

You will notice the gearing more than you think. But you really want to make sure your brakes are in great shape. Even with 37s on my truck and rear discs, it can be pretty hard to stop at times.

I might sell you my Skyjacker 4.5" coils if you are interested. They are in great shape. Powdercoated black. I need to get these coilovers on and that would motivate me to get going.

 

I might sell you my Skyjacker 4.5" coils if you are interested. They are in great shape. Powdercoated black. I need to get these coilovers on and that would motivate me to get going.

I might be interested in those coils if the OP isnt , shoot me a price if ya could please .

 

yea i wish i could justify buying your long arms right now but with the new job and buying equipment to do my job i cant do it...

my brakes and front end is basically brand new with all the parts i put on to get rid of the DW...

how much you asking for the 4.5 springs? you can just pm me with your number or price

 

Let me think on the springs. How soon do you need them?

I wasn't saying long arms. Check out the new short arms. Got a couple of options on those. I'm building a set right now that are non-adjustable, which aren't listed on the site. But you really should get or make adjustable arms in case the axle is too far forward.

 

nice looks like you have alot of new stuff on the site... i think im gonna just order up those tires since thats what i wanna run and put them on and see where my clearances are before running them down the road.. then ill have a better idea as far as control arms and lift coils... i was trying to get it done for the desert this weekend but just gonna ride in my buddies rig...i already built some control arms and have them on my truck that are 1" over stock..i was running the hummer 37's but the BS of the re centered h1's killed the clearance.. ill let you know on those coils if i for sure want them in the next week or so.. thanks dj

ill keep you updated and take some pics of clearances and all that fun stuff... seeing another lance's rig on 6" and 41's makes me believe i can pull it off just wont get the axle drop since its not a long arm

 

I will have to concur with DJ on this one... With a little twist to what he said about the minimum lift and the large tire size.
I have an '01.5 Ram 2500 with the H.O. 24 valve Cummins, and the factory rear Dana 70 with Disc brakes. I only have 2" leveling springs on the front, and nothing else. But, with only a minor trim of the fender to clear my 37" Goodyear MT/R Hummer tires, on the 12 bolt re-centered H-1s with 3.5"BS. I mainly use the truck as my daily driver, but also do some wheeling in it. Easier trails like Fins & Things, Poison Spider Mesa, Kane Creek, Moab Rim, and more of the like.
Here are a couple pictures for your viewing pleasure. The first one was taken the day I installed the new 12 bolts that were wearing 36" Bias-ply Hummer surplus rubber. (if you look close, or zoom in, you will see that the tires are rubbing on the back of the fenders)

Now, the next two are pictures taken after I trimmed approximately 2" of body out of the fenders. I tapered the cut to take the most metal on the bottom and less as the cut moved upward. This way, I did not cut into the interior of the cab and risk leaks, and such.

I know the picture quality is pretty $hitty... Also I know that this is with the 36s. I have been running the 37s for a good while now and this fall I will be switching over to a set of 36" TSL SXs that Hundy (100dollarman) is selling.
Even with the 37s on there, I have not rubbed the body, frame, control arms, nothing. Hope this helps you out.

 

Are you sure those aren't 36" tires? I thought that tread pattern was all 36" bias ply.

 

are you sure those aren't 36" tires? I thought that tread pattern was all 36" bias ply.

i will have to concur with dj on this one... With a little twist to what he said about the minimum lift and the large tire size.
I have an '01.5 ram 2500 with the h.o. 24 valve cummins, and the factory rear dana 70 with disc brakes. I only have 2" leveling springs on the front, and nothing else. But, with only a minor trim of the fender to clear my 37" goodyear mt/r hummer tires, on the 12 bolt re-centered h-1s with 3.5"bs. I mainly use the truck as my daily driver, but also do some wheeling in it. Easier trails like fins & things, poison spider mesa, kane creek, moab rim, and more of the like.
Here are a couple pictures for your viewing pleasure. the first one was taken the day i installed the new 12 bolts that were wearing 36" bias-ply hummer surplus rubber. (if you look close, or zoom in, you will see that the tires are rubbing on the back of the fenders)
.

:flipoff2: It's all good. Yes, the first pick was when the truck was wearing 36s. But I now have the 37" MT/R H-1 tires on there now. I don't have pics of them, but they have been on there for about a year now.

 

He just said they are

Sent from my mudwhistle via lemmiwinks.

 

Can u steer?

Sent from my mudwhistle via lemmiwinks.

 

Yes I can steer. I like to keep it as low as possible. The pictures is deceiving I was too close with the camera. I didn't want to hijack the thread. I was just interested in that bracket.

 

Ok, ok, I was skimming, I admit it.

 

who is that cute little thing standing next to the beast, shes HOT

 

Tim, she's a lot more trouble than the truck.lol

 

Im running 36.5x13.5 ground hawgs on my 99 3500 with a 2.5" leveling kit.
They rub at full lock but I havent trimmed yet.
I have some 37" hummer tires going on if I can ever get some rims cheap. I dont think they will rub because they are narrow

 

2.5" Leveling kit under V8 2500...... H2 with 37's.

Same truck:

H2s and 35s

 

adam5432002, did that leveling kit utilize longer control arms? Or are they stock? Sharp lookin truck btw:smokin:

 

Just springs and shocks, I bought a DT profab trac bar thow.......
I wish I kept the truck, did the D60 ford free spin and a longer controll arms. Also Id consider getting some Turen Coils and Control arms. Along with a aftermarket trac brac bar.

 

Alright I will holler at you if he doesn't need them. I will have to think on the price.

 

Appreciate it :smokin:

I may just say screw it and go with longer arms and coil-overs . . . . dont quite know yet .

 

im ordering up my tires today so should have them mounted to check clearances beginning of next week at the latest..will take some pics for reference..

i need some help with what parts to re gear the truck.... the only time i ever looked into re gearing was my old blazer which had a 14 bolt and thats the only one i had to re gear to match the front..

2x install kits and you think 2x 4.88 or 4.56 ring and pinion set? do they make a (thick gear set) for the front and rear so i do not have to upgrade the carrier? i have the stock 4.10 in it now.... and 4wp is wrong in my axle identification saying i have a d44 front when i know the front is a d60 but cannot tell if the rear is a d70 or d60...its a 99 2500 8800 gvwr

i cant seem to find the gears online that are thick cut..

 

its a 60, check ur glove box should say like mine does, says its a 60HD