Nope. needs all the stuff inside to work.

 

wrong. you CAN do this with no problems. it's been done to the 14 bolt in the rear of my suburban. after 1 year and thousands of miles later it's just fine.

 

Weld it.

 

In a tow rig.......

I found a replacement.

 

Not sure how similar they are, but I've gutted a 10 bolt gov loc and it worked like an open diff just fine after.

 

They're not even similar.

 

of what? how to do it? it's not hard, just crack the carrier in half, pull gov lok pieces, put the three side/spider gears back in, and close it up. there should be plenty of threads in gen. 4x4 showing you what the inside of a 14 bolt looks like.

 

Just so I'm completely clear on this and not making a stupid assumption: Are we talking about a GM Corporate 14 bolt axle with the seperate pinion support chunk bolted to the front, or the AAM 10.5 or 11.5 axle that GM (and Dodge) puts in everything now and coincidentally also has 14 cover bolts, but no seperate pinion support? My AAM 11.5 came with the G80 code so I'm wondering if they used the same code for completely different axles.

 

Corperate/dana, and aam are the same company, same code for that type of locking diff for all theyre axles from them. Its the same code for a half ton cheby locking diff.

 

Mine is a good old 14 bolt with the removable pinion and the pinion support bearing.

 

Here my 14 bolt gov loc looked like after it start poping and banging, its was used for a tow rig under my 68 chevy towing a 2 axle trailer and a samurai.
It worked like a locker on the way home once on of the pieces of spider gears got jammed in :laughing:.

 

Thanks for the pics it does look like the 14 bolt Gov-Loc would work as a open diff with the locking parts removed before it broke.

 

mr slickrock,thats some nice breakage just goes to show ya the gov lock was a bad design,no matter how stout of an axle you put it in.

the 14 bolt i used in my scout was a gov lov. it still worked,but i turned it into a 3 prong,gov lock gearball :grinpimp:

i agree with scoutIITD i wouldnt want a welded rig in a tow rig. replace with an open carrier if its too broken to remove the pieces and turn it into an open diff.

 

It's a pretty common break in the Eaton design (G80 Gov-lock). It has a locking cam on one of the spider gears which is engaged when there is approximately 100 RPM difference between the two axle shafts. Over 20 MPH the upper cam swings out and prevents lockup. They are known for breaking if you ever put any sort of abuse towards them.

If you look at the picture, it's that little cam setup on the upper right. They work fine on stock applications, although 100 RPM difference with big tires brings on a lot more force than the G80 was designed for - causing the spider gears to grenade.

So to get to the OP's question - that popping and banging either means the locking cam is broken or you have a piece of the spider gears floating around in the differential. I suppose you could remove the locking cam if there was no damage, and run it as an open. That said I think Eaton designed these things to break catastrophically because I've never seen one break its locking mechanism and have any salvageable parts. I would start shopping for a Detroit / stock open carrier.