I recently picked up a 94 Grand Cherokee Limited for cheap. I traded a shotgun for it and only had 150 in the gun. And I was wondering what all would be needed to swap a 5spd out of a cherokee in it? My buddy has a wrecked cherokee thats a 5spd and said I could have the tranny, t-case, pedals, and anything else I need for 100 bucks. The zj has a 4.0 in it and so does the cherokee. I know in 93 some zj's came with a 5spd. Any info is much appreciated.
04silvyhotrod
did it too my old 93'
obviously the basics- trans, flywheel, clutch, slave and master, pedals.
mine came with a AW4 so in order for it to start you gotta hard wire the neutral start switch, basically splicing two wires together or tossing them on a switch for an "anti-theft" the wiring diagram was in my haynes manual. you'll also need to swap your trans crossmember or adapt yours or build a new one, and driveshafts.
can see what I did to get pedals in my old thread. I couldn't find a 5spd 93' anywhere locally so I hacked up a couple versions of pedals, once you pull the TCU from the firewall you'll see the stamped hole for a master I just used a complete master/slave and line from a 96' XJ fit perfectly in the ZJ
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/840969-grocery-hauler.html
obviously the basics- trans, flywheel, clutch, slave and master, pedals.
mine came with a AW4 so in order for it to start you gotta hard wire the neutral start switch, basically splicing two wires together or tossing them on a switch for an "anti-theft" the wiring diagram was in my haynes manual. you'll also need to swap your trans crossmember or adapt yours or build a new one, and driveshafts.
can see what I did to get pedals in my old thread. I couldn't find a 5spd 93' anywhere locally so I hacked up a couple versions of pedals, once you pull the TCU from the firewall you'll see the stamped hole for a master I just used a complete master/slave and line from a 96' XJ fit perfectly in the ZJ
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/840969-grocery-hauler.html
Hey, i just got finished doing this to my 98 zj last week.
I had a 92 xj that i was tired of F*ng with.
The most difficult was the pedals, but even that was not hard.
I took the xj pedals (brake/clutch) and zj pedal (brake) and basically laid them next to each other to get measurements. cut wedges out of xj pedall and hamered the top flat then welded it back together, i also cut a squar out of a portion and welded that back for integrity. (forgot why) using the xj cluster that "knock out" you can see in the zj firewall doesn't line up. you have to go further towards the center about 1-1.5 in.
things to come out: auto linkage, trans cooler lines.
have to cut a hole drictely under where the shifter was (maybe slightly forwad, but not much.
As i said i only got it finnished (driving last week, so still some kinks.)
the tranny mount was a bit tricky i used the xj one, made a spacer by cutting apart the xj cross bar (I don't believe this would swap i looked at it, but never tried ) and then also moved it forward a little by cutting a hole on the replacable portion in front of factory ones. without spacing it up a little the front driveshaft was hitting cross bar.
I found there is many CPS that were used. not sure how your's will turn out, but i used one from an automatic xj that was 98 as well. the auto xjs mount the same as the manual ones as opposed to the zj, mounts with only one bolt and too short, so you may be able to use the cps from the manual or possible use the year of your zj but from auto/manual xj.
The manual trans is shorter, most i read said ~ 3 added to rear driveshaft and - 3 from front. mine is lifted 4.5 so i had to actually add 5 to rear and only take off about ~1 from front.
my XJ/ZJ driveshafts were nearlly identical
NSS can be grounded to get engine to crank, or hook up to a switch on clutch, i think one of these wires turns on reverse lights (haven't fiddled with that yet.)
reminds me, i used the zjs brake switch which needed a square hole and my xj pedals had a round one, just took some "precise" dremmeling/hogging to get the zj factory one in rather than re-wiring the xj one.
don't know how it will work for you. i was crossing obd1 obd2..
I do have check engine lights, haven't even scanned them to be honest, driven truck about 200 miles since. seems to be getting better milage.
when i took the trannies out, i noticed the cranks seem to be entirely differnt (should have taken a picture) and the point where you would insert the pilot was about .5"+ sunken in on the zj compared to the xj, i went ahead and stuck the new pilot in anyways and hope the tranny imput shaft got in there at least a little, but i don't have any weird vibration, so seems good enough.:homer:
Good luck, i'll try to get up some pics, but i didn't take many :/
I had a 92 xj that i was tired of F*ng with.
The most difficult was the pedals, but even that was not hard.
I took the xj pedals (brake/clutch) and zj pedal (brake) and basically laid them next to each other to get measurements. cut wedges out of xj pedall and hamered the top flat then welded it back together, i also cut a squar out of a portion and welded that back for integrity. (forgot why) using the xj cluster that "knock out" you can see in the zj firewall doesn't line up. you have to go further towards the center about 1-1.5 in.
things to come out: auto linkage, trans cooler lines.
have to cut a hole drictely under where the shifter was (maybe slightly forwad, but not much.
As i said i only got it finnished (driving last week, so still some kinks.)
the tranny mount was a bit tricky i used the xj one, made a spacer by cutting apart the xj cross bar (I don't believe this would swap i looked at it, but never tried ) and then also moved it forward a little by cutting a hole on the replacable portion in front of factory ones. without spacing it up a little the front driveshaft was hitting cross bar.
I found there is many CPS that were used. not sure how your's will turn out, but i used one from an automatic xj that was 98 as well. the auto xjs mount the same as the manual ones as opposed to the zj, mounts with only one bolt and too short, so you may be able to use the cps from the manual or possible use the year of your zj but from auto/manual xj.
The manual trans is shorter, most i read said ~ 3 added to rear driveshaft and - 3 from front. mine is lifted 4.5 so i had to actually add 5 to rear and only take off about ~1 from front.
my XJ/ZJ driveshafts were nearlly identical
NSS can be grounded to get engine to crank, or hook up to a switch on clutch, i think one of these wires turns on reverse lights (haven't fiddled with that yet.)
reminds me, i used the zjs brake switch which needed a square hole and my xj pedals had a round one, just took some "precise" dremmeling/hogging to get the zj factory one in rather than re-wiring the xj one.
don't know how it will work for you. i was crossing obd1 obd2..
I do have check engine lights, haven't even scanned them to be honest, driven truck about 200 miles since. seems to be getting better milage.
when i took the trannies out, i noticed the cranks seem to be entirely differnt (should have taken a picture) and the point where you would insert the pilot was about .5"+ sunken in on the zj compared to the xj, i went ahead and stuck the new pilot in anyways and hope the tranny imput shaft got in there at least a little, but i don't have any weird vibration, so seems good enough.:homer:
Good luck, i'll try to get up some pics, but i didn't take many :/
So another hurtle to over come will be the T-case shift linkage. it seems to me everyone who does this swap ends up buying the novak kit. I only started working on this issue, the ZJ's automatic "transmision torque bracket" mounts one bolt on top and one on side of trans. the top one doesn't exist on the manual and wouldn't line up to anything anyhow.
From the XJ, it uses a bracket that bolts on with two of the T-case nuts. This does still bolt on, but doesn't line up with the "frame torque bracket." the receptacle for T-case pivoting thing would need to be a couple inches higher and slightly forward.
On the manual trans there is two threaded holes and that weren't used. I'm thinking of trying to make a plate to use those holes and not have to spend 160 or whatever the novak thing costs.
Let me know if anyone else has a solution, or I'll post what i end up doing. The novak thing seems like a great setup though if it goes that way.
Pedal braket. (no before sorry..)
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From the XJ, it uses a bracket that bolts on with two of the T-case nuts. This does still bolt on, but doesn't line up with the "frame torque bracket." the receptacle for T-case pivoting thing would need to be a couple inches higher and slightly forward.
On the manual trans there is two threaded holes and that weren't used. I'm thinking of trying to make a plate to use those holes and not have to spend 160 or whatever the novak thing costs.
Let me know if anyone else has a solution, or I'll post what i end up doing. The novak thing seems like a great setup though if it goes that way.
Pedal braket. (no before sorry..)
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