you want to stop on the cheap... get a mid 70's corvette master cylinder.. and remove your proportioning valve...

i am running this setup with 4 wheel disks on d60/14b and mine stops like nobody's business...

cheap and every parts store will have one... no need to mess with that hydroboost set up..

 

i have to agree with you hear, i would try the corvette master first before dropping the money on the hydroboost. but you can pick up the parts pretty easy at a upullit most fullsize 2500s have hydroboost. when you pull it just look at the set up and remember how it went it is very easy to hook up the hoses

 

I had the same problem, i've got a Stak and in 5.44 i could not hold the vehicle at idle. i tried three different master cylinders and two differnt boosters. ended up having to go with hydrobooost. the most important thing is the pump. i have the PSC high pressure standard volume pump. i have 4 wheel disc with ram assist. believe it or not, a ram assist set-up requires more from a pump than full hydro. here is a basic grocery list.

First off, make sure you have a very good power steering cooler
Remote res for fluid.
Royal Purple synthetic PS fluid. (a hydro boost does put a good bit of heat into the system)
1976 Corvette master cylinder for 4wheel disc
2000-2003 Ford HydroBoost off and F250 or 350 (got mine for $35 at u-pull-it)
one other thing i found out is that the system works best if front and rear lines are tied together. just take you proportioning block and remove the internal. i had to make a couple plugs for mine.
it takes a little time to get the air out of the system, you will probably have to crack a line and blead the system a couple times.

i have a lot of money in my brakes just because of all the part i have sitting on the self. my brakes work great and what is on my jeep now, i only have about $300 in my system counting hoses.

 

I just got a YJ with a 60/14 combo and it only has the master cyclinder and no booster. In low it will not hold the Jeep at idle. Correct me if I am wrong but the booster just makes it easier to depress the brake pedal. My master cyclinder is off a 1-ton Chevy.

Can anybody post some pics of your setup.

Thanks

 

The booster multiples the force put on the pedal to the piston in the master, making in it easier to depress the pedal. meaning you get more force on your breaks then you can get with out the booster.

 

I should get a booster. What year 1-ton Chevys had booster?

 

Not sure how this would work for 60/14 application. But I just did the hydroboost from an Astro van in my YJ. I have 44/9" disc all around. Can actually lock them up now. 50 for the hydroboost and master cyclinder at pick n pull here.

 

If you run full hydro steering you may consider running another pump for your hydro boost. I have hydro assist and upgraded to a PSC pump to run both systems and it does pretty good. I have a hydro boost from 1 ton chevy p/u w/ corvette master cylinder and 4 wheel disc on dana 44s. I pulled the prop. valve and it does pretty well.

 

post some pics of your set ups! I think I really need to take interest sincei'll be starting off with 44/9 and moving to 60/9

 

I would try to keep the proportional valve working if possible - there is a reason the brake system is separated into front and rear - you ever blow a seal, line, or have low fluid you will be glad you kept them separate.

 

my homemade hydroboost

hmmm....trying to remember what i did.....

this is on my 97 TJ

the master cylinder is from a corvette

I made a bracket to fit p-series pump in place of TC series pump

the pump is cobbled from a camaro? and a 80's chevy van w/hydroboost. To get the serpentine pulley i used the actual pump from the camaro but used the reservoir (dual return) and fitting/piston/spring from the HB equipt van.

The HB is from a chevy astro...

The mounting plate to get the correct angle is from a '70's grand marquis and then a aluminum spacer from a cherokee vac booster was used to push it out 1/4 inch and it was spot on.

I reused the high pressure line from the TJ pump to the HB

still need to plumb in a cooler but its working great without it so no hurry

 

Before my YJ I had a 73 bronco running a 44/9 setup. I ran a full Astro van hydroboost/master cylinder setup and I could lock up the 36s and hold it no problem in low behind my 302. I also was running hydro assist and a saginaw pump. The output from the saginaw T'ed to the p/s pump and the hydroboost. Both had return lines which went to the pump as it had 2 return lines. Was an awesome setup and worked great. Also had no problems with overheating. Not a YJ but in a heavier truck and worked perfectly.

 

your pressure line was T'ed? I've never seen that done before...usually the HB and steering are in series with the HB coming first

scott

 

I think the Vanco setup is the way to go but am wondering if there is anything else that won't break the bank. (older fullsize hydroboost unit??)

VANCO:

The other suggestions are all good, if you've got the access to P&P's that have the vehicles you need. Unfortunately, in my area, those are limited. And with the price of scrap steel, most yards are crushing on a more frequent basis. And I don't have the time to run around three counties looking for 'deals'. But to each their own. Nothing wrong with fab'n your own up.

I am wondering also if anyone could help with how to plumb in the hydroboost to this steering system? I see the schematic on the vanco install also in the tech section but not sure which inlet and outlet to use on the steering unit.

Give Van a call, he's always been ready to provide assistance to anyone. Even if you aren't using one of his products. IIRC, he recommends getting the HB 'flowed' if you're running a hydro steer or a hydro winch.

Lastly I have an aluminum radiator with a tranny cooler built in. I don't use it with the manual tranny so I am wondering if I could use this as a cooler and by doing so increase the fluid in the system so I wouldn't need a bigger resevoir?

I wouldn't run the lines down there. Just that it puts them in harms way, and although you won't loose braking, per se. You will loose good braking if the lines get severed by that log/rock you just ran over.

If you need a larger reservoir, why not go to a remote reservoir system? That will add capacity.

Here's a pic of my pump/cooler/filter setup: