That's what I run. Not ideal. But I haven't had problems. I did taco brakes and had to keep spacers to clear the calipers with my 15" rims.

 

i have 17" rims. so clearance isnt the issue. but my tires may rub the spring.
will the rim not being on the hub body be bad? and this does get drove to and from trails, 3+ hour drives one way...

 

The issue isn't tires rubbing the spring, tho they might. When gaining width like that the trunion bearings will see a lot more force, and the scrub steer will be horrific. If you really want a wider toy axle build a ruff stuff housing, or go with a rock assault housing if they have fixed the issues with them not being squared up. Then get the right inners made and rock out with your (rooster) out!

 

If you really want a wider toy axle build a diamond housing, Then get the right inners made and rock out with your (rooster) out!

the correct way unless going tons :flipoff2:

 

i should have been more clear. when i said the tires may rub is because i just went from a 35 to a 37 so i might have a slight rubbing issue because of that. i had a 3.5 bs 15" rim with the 35.
now i have a 4.25 or so bs 17" tr rim.
im going from sa hubs with 1.5 spacers to ifs hubs and fror taco brake kit, running 97 runner brakes. so i know my width will be the same as with the sa hub and 1.5 spacer correct?
id like to gain a little width since i lost some with the new bs,so can i gain a little more width by running a 1" spacer or is just not a good idea and i should deal with the width im going to have?
im also installing trunnion eliminators now along with the brake upgrade and hydro assist

 

Just a point id like to bring up wheel spacers do not effect the degrees the tire will rub unless they are spaced past the surface you are rubbing on. All they do is move the tire further from the pivot point. You only gain width. I have a TG tocoma width housing and the "new balls" design sucks the base of the balls are bigger in diameter. The steering on the TG housing is 4" total lock to lock thats where they contact the wiper seals. Pretty much have the same turning i did with 38s and the steering stops turnout to not rub the springs on a stock housing. RS or diamond housing ftw.

 

Yes but if im just barely touching the spring at full lock wouldnt the added width solve this? Whike giving.me a little more stability?
But if its a bad idea to run spacers with an ifs hub i wont. My worry is with the 1.5 spacer and ifs hub it looks like the rim wouldnt ride on the hub body but more the locking hub part..
Im not stuck on 1.5 spacers if i can run spacers. I just happen to have 1.5 now

 

Ive ran ifs hubs with 1.5" spacers on my 4runner & Ftoy with no problems. I had 38 TSL SX & 37 REDs nether rub the springs at full lock.

 

Did your rims still ride on the hub body or kore on the dial body?

 

Run them. A 1" spacer isn't shit.

Now, if you were going for 3"+ you face different problems but mostly on your studs.

 

I ran 2" spacers on mine with 4" BS rims and sheared off all of my wheel studs one day on the trail. Not fun. I definitely wouldn't do it if the truck sees any street time.

 

Had a feeling id get conflicting answers. And i feel people shearing all lugs at once is a maintenance issue. I just dont get how all 6 will break like that without something not being torqued like it was supposed to. Im waiting on the ifs hubs to show up from fror. When they do im gonna measure and see if i can run a 1 inch and have the rim still riding on the hub assembly. I dont like the idea of it riding on the dial body..

 

What the hell are you talking about? Dial body? Rim riding on the hub body???
The wheel is centered with lugs not the hub...

 

Toyota straight axles aren't hub eccentric as far as I know, I've never had an aftermarket wheel that fit snug on the hub either.

 

I know i dound like a retard, i dont know the names. Im gonna see if i can edit a picture to show you. And i know the rim doesnt actually ride on the hub. Give me a couple minutes to find a picture

 

Ok imagine a 1.5" spacer on this. The rim mounted up would no longer sit on the lugs over the hub body, but would be pushed out over the shiny aluminum part (i dont know the name) wouldnt that be bad?

 

No the wheel doesn't touch the hub, or the hub actuator. Once again, the wheel is lug centric, not hub centric...

 

i would agree about the lugs snapping all at once. don't see it happening. my wife had been complaining about this weird clicking noise when she turned left in my 4runner, so i took it for a drive. first left turn -click click click BANG. turn right off the road into a Wendy's parking lot- click click click BANG! click BANG! just saw the last lug nut flying across the parking lot! the front wheel was still being held up by the dial body when i stopped. 5 broken studs and one missing. pretty sure that the tire monkeys didn't torque the lugs and i never retorqued them later.
lesson learned (again) maintenance! maintenance! maintenance!

 

This will be my exact setup except ill have 97 4runner calipers and rotors instead of tacoma, so just a little bigger. If i put 1.5" spacers on that my rim would be pushed out almost over the hub stud nuts. But i know still on the lugs themselves just would be floating over the actuator and hub stud nuts
Is that a bad idea?

 

I understand it doesnt actually touch the hub or actuator, im more asking if its bad that, with running a spacer, the rim would be pushed out over the actuator instead of being in over the hub even though i know either way the rim wouldn't touch either. And is going to Be centered via the lug studs either way.
I guess im thinking the extra leverage, or if the lugs were to break the rim wouldnt have a chance of falling onto the hub but falling strait onto the actuator?

 

IMO I would not do it at all, I do not think they are needed.

 

If the lugs break, the hub body isn't going to save you. I told you how to correctly widen a Toyota axle. Running spacers works but the downsides are not what your worried about.

The lugs will see the same amount of "extra leverage" regardless of how far the hub body sticks out. The down side is the added stress on your trunions, wheel bearings, steering components, and tire wear if you drive it on the street.

 

Edit: didnt see your post dragrcr before i replied. Ill have trunnion eliminators, arp hub and knuckle studs and hydro assist. Really only drive it around town a little and to the trails but it is about 3 hour trips one way. Bad idea to run spacers, even if just a 1"? Should i just run no spacers to be on the safe side or am i likely worrying about nothing?
I guess im just asking if its a bad idea that the rim be pushed all the way out to where the red line is on this picture, versus where it would normally be shown as the green line. I know either way it will still be centered and mounted on the lugs and nothing else.
Just is it bad that the rim would be mounted past the hub and over the actuator and hub studs

 

Edit: didnt see your post dragrcr before i replied. Ill have trunnion eliminators, arp hub and knuckle studs and hydro assist.

this was your exact setup :flipoff2: stew pedaso on here, light touch of a tree about 3"

 

Only reason im thinking about the added spacer is because of the width i lost with my new backspacing being 4.5 or 4.25 instead of the 3.5 i had before.
Would just be a little more stable

 

If what ur looking for is more width, get a wider axle. The stability gained from wheel spacers isn't worth the durability loss. My opinion..

 

If the lugs break, the hub body isn't going to save you. I told you how to correctly widen a Toyota axle. Running spacers works but the downsides are not what your worried about.

The lugs will see the same amount of "extra leverage" regardless of how far the hub body sticks out. The down side is the added stress on your trunions, wheel bearings, steering components, and tire wear if you drive it on the street.

No it won't because he is going to a wheel with deeper offset and using the spacer to bring the tire back out. So the tire centerline to steering angle / scrub radius will be the same with the new rim plus spacer as it was with the old rim.

Unless i read the switch backwards :rasta:

 

Read exactly what I said...
My post was in reference to the wheel mounting being past the end of the hub body, and had no reference to the comparison between his old and new setups... I have been saying all along it will work, it's just not the best way to do it.

 

A picture worth a 1000 words.

 

The OP has super backspaced wheels. Him having a spacer has the same scrub as a deep rim and no spacer.

Run it.

I run ifs hub bodies and a 1"spacer with fairly deep rims...keep everything tight and gp wheeling...