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Leafs to links build

16K views 53 replies 17 participants last post by  44boggers  
#1 · (Edited)
Some of you might have seen my build in the Chevy section, but i want to move this part of the build over here to get a different audience, opinions, tips ect...

Here is what I am running.
4 Link
Front 16" ORI's STX
392 C.I. stroker fuel injected
th400
203/205 doubler
Trail worth fab wheels
PSC Full Hyrdro
44' Boggers
Dana 70 rear up front
14 bolt rear
welded front and rear
Hertic Fab 2" uppers and lowers

To come:
4 Link
rear 16" ORI's STX
2" heretic Fab links

So on with some pics. Please feel free to comment on design, as this is my first four link.
 

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#2 ·
You can notice I had to change my lower link geometry. I originally had it exactly how i wanted it but had driveshaft interference. So I ended up moving the lower links out about 8"s.
Built a new ram mount that is also removable. Also a shot of tire clearance which is good by a C hair.

Next step is to weld in the inserts, finish upper link mounts, build winch mount, brake lines, finish truss, box in link bracket and then move onto the rear. I only have weekends to work on it, so progress goes somewhat slow.
 

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#3 ·
Got the front just about buttoned up.
Still need to finish:
Plating the truss
Tying in the upper axle link brackets
Winch mount
Res. mount
Hydro cooler mount
Run brake lines
Hydro lines
Tie the new frame into the inner cage.
Then move onto the rear. I should be able to get this done in the next couple weeks.

Couple pics. First are the lower link brackets (making tabs by hand just sucks!) I think I have spent more of the build making tabs then building the rig. Then just a flex shot and ride height shot. Please critique.
 

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#4 ·
Got a couple things done today.

Mounted hydro cooler
Ran hydro lines
Built winch mount and got the winch mounted.

One day at a time. :shaking:
 

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#7 ·
I have a driveshaft from Jess at High angle Driveline. I moved my front end forward by about 13 inches, so I needed to send the shaft back to Jess to have him lengthen it.
 
#10 · (Edited)
ha thanks I guess ;) Yeah I know its not the prettiest rig at first. It was really nice about a year ago, but I beat it pretty damn hard and next thing you know, i dont have a hood or doors or fenders. The forest has taken them forever ha.

There is def some body work i need and will do just to make it look a little bit better. But I think once I am done with the rear it will really come together.

I have to say it performed very very well even with leafs. But it comes a time when you need to make major improvements. Bending leaf springs every trip out started to get old. Plus i cant leave shit alone.

Here is what it looked like about two years ago.


Anyways, next on the list is to run brake lines, mount steering res. then load it on the trailer and bring it to my friends garage for the winter which is only 15 minutes away from me, that way I should have the rig 90 percent done by december. It needs to be done by the end of april so I can have a test run or two before heading back down to Rausch Creek.
 

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#14 ·
No that plate was part of my old winch mount and the hole was there for water drainage and aesthetics. So it does not serve a purpose other than looks now. But thanks for the tip Foley. I am going to plate the front and bolt my fairlead to it.
 
#16 ·
I havent had much done recently due to not having any time. I should be able to start working on the rear come march. I finally have my ORi's for the rear. But here are just a couple pics. I finished running the front brake lines (well just about, once the truss is finished they will be hard mounted) and mounted the hydro cooler and res.
 

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#17 ·
My first impression is that more material is needed at the upper strut mounts for longevity.

I've got the ORIs as well, and because of how they look its easy to forget that they are not a traditional shock.... They are actually holding up the weight of the entire truck too. Keeping that in mind, a small shock tab (with a couple welded inches of connection to the tube work) may not get the job done.

I'd be tempted to put a brace across the front towers for a similar reason. All that truck weight concentrated into those upper mounts is going to tweak on that tube work pretty hard.

Easy fixes... IMHO. How do you like the ride quality of the ORIs so far?


-G
 
#18 ·
My first impression is that more material is needed at the upper strut mounts for longevity.

I've got the ORIs as well, and because of how they look its easy to forget that they are not a traditional shock.... They are actually holding up the weight of the entire truck too. Keeping that in mind, a small shock tab (with a couple welded inches of connection to the tube work) may not get the job done.

I'd be tempted to put a brace across the front towers for a similar reason. All that truck weight concentrated into those upper mounts is going to tweak on that tube work pretty hard.

Easy fixes... IMHO. How do you like the ride quality of the ORIs so far?

Thanks for your opinions. The front tubing is not completely done. I will have the shock mounts tide into the interior cage as well as making an "engine cover" out of tubing and it will tie into the strut mounts, so that should add that extra support you are talking about. Once i have the truss boxed in I will also box in the upper link mounts on the truss.

I havent had a chance to run the truck with the ORI's yet, I am going to finish the rear before I drive it.
 
#20 ·
Upper links are 32" and lowers are 45". I havent had much time these days to get major stuff done, but a lot of little things. I got a new fuel cell (15 gallon RCI) and dropped 4 walbro pickups in there, built the rear axle truss to get ready for the rear 4 link, built the side plates of the front truss (just need to weld them onto the front truss now) and cut out all the plates for my fuel cell mount. Just need to dimple die them then weld it together, but the hard part is over. I will post some pics soon.
Just bought bend tech so i am going to design the rear cage/frame off that.
 
#21 ·
Few pics for now.
The last photo seems to be flipped, I was actually schmart enoof to put the pickups on the bottom and not the side.
 

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#24 ·
Slowly but surely getting some stuff done. Finished up the front axle. Next I need to finish up the front tubing and then its on to the rear.
 

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#26 ·
All the tubing is 1.75" .120 wall. I can get some pics later this week for you. Pretty basic though. Polly bushings, some tubing and some tabs.
 
#27 ·
Couple updates. Cut the rear frame off and got the rear axle where I want it. Will probably end up being around 131" wheel base. Also added a few more tubes to the front.
 

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#28 ·
Got a few more things checked off. Ran out of tubing so I couldnt complete the front, Basically just need to match the one tube going over the motor for the other side, then a piece protecting the hydro res and master cyl. Then its off to the rear, some tube rolling and finishing my upper frame link mounts and build my radiator mount.

Also got rid of the stock warn solenoids and put in an albright solenoid, cleans things up a lot and dont need to worry about burning out 1 of the four cheap solenoids. Also installed a winch toggle/power unit from 12 volt guy.
 

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#29 ·
Can you show us some pictures of how the front section ties into the cage? Also, how about where the tubular section ties into the factory framerail?

Looks good overall, and I'm curious to see how well it works out for you. Definitely something to keep in mind if I ever want to do a similar 4 link front. Thanks in advance!
 
#30 ·
I will get some pics in the next couple days, but the tubing is just notched into the interior cage. Like a T. I will add a couple gussets. You can see in the last pic how the frame is attached, it is butt welded to the stock frame. Again I will add a couple gussets for some security. This is my first time doing a build so elaborate, so I am also interested to see how it all works out in the end. Hopefully good ha.
 
#31 ·
Few more updates. Finished the 4 link in the rear and the front engine cage area. Built the radiator mount and today got most of the shock brackets made. Coming close the the end. Just need to tie the rear cage to the interior cage, plumb the radiator. fill trans, rear diff and front t case. Add a new breather to the 205 and a rock guard for the hydro ram. Let me know what you guys think or see with my set up.
 

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#34 ·
haha its kind of a running joke with my buddy, he says it will be there in a year. I didnt plan on 4 linking this for a lot longer, just kinda happened. I like that it still has the truck look. I bought this truck 11 years ago as a stock 3/4 ton pickup. So I didnt want to lose all of that. I have 2 ft of frame, cab and emblem left from the original truck .