Pretty much everything about standalone harnesses is here http://www.lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

 

Tons of info in this thread:
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=735270

 

I just had my harness done by jims performance om ny 2007 5.3. In the end you end up almost standalone. Hook up power, ground, ignition, starter solenoid, check engine light, and tach. Pretty simple...

 

He does good work. I have sent him several harnesses. Plus everything comes marked. Plus his really affordable IMO.

 

great info

 

x2 great info. how bout info on spacing the flexplate for a th350 or 400?

 

Those things have all been covered in other threads.

There are two big thread on here:

1) 5.3 Jeeps, in the hardcore Jeep forum
2) Links to LSX info, here in the general forum.

Damn near EVERYTHING is in those.


Different engines are different. On my 5.3 its as simple as hammering in a 0.400" spacer into the flex plate and going on my merry way.

 

Summit Racing sells the Hughes spacer for about $70.00 that allows you to use the stock TH350 converter. I just chose Schwanke Harness and computer and its very nice and affordable. I've had turn key's harness in most of my other cars but there's worked flawless at KOH.

 

Summit Racing sells the Hughes spacer for about $70.00 that allows you to use the stock TH350 converter.

That's a waste of money! :laughing:

GM sells spacer for way less and they will work with the early trans!!

 

The hughes part doesn't cost that much, its more like $40. The GM part + bolts is a little more expensive.

I'm using the hughes.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUP-HP3795/

The GMPP:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12563532/

plus bolts:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12563533/

 

You can get the GM spacer cheaper than that I have paid like 50 bucks for the spacer and the 6 longer bolts at my local dealer plus tax. But I now just get them from the local yard off core engines. I had several sets but have sold all of them.

Another option is to get a spacer/bolts off a 6.0L flatflex plate and use it. or just use the flat flexplate/spacer itself as well.

The good thing about the Hughes spacer is you don't need longer bolts. Now for $40+ bucks thats a good deal.

I added the spacer my trans tech thread as it seem to be a viable alternative to the GM spacer.

 

great info, what did it cost u guys for jims performance to work their magic on the harness?

 

"And you really have no way of running a DBW TB with a TV cable. Its easier just to use a Gen III trans"


pulled this quote off bos tranny tech artical. anybody care to explane this to me

 

On the 700R4, you need to have the TV cable pulled correctly. How far its pulled out controls the line pressure in the trans.

On a TH350, the cable is just for kickdown, needs to be pulled all the way out at full throttle. Thats easy enough to run off of the pedal with a little welding to make a bracket/arm.


OK, now back to the throttle bodies.. Gen III motors came either with drive by wire or cable throttle bodies. There's nothing external that really moves to attach the TV cable to, on a DBW throttle body.

So, you can switch to a cable throttle body, but you do need to add some other wiring and bits, because the cable ones have other things like idle air controller, which on the DBW is a function of the stepper motor controlling the throttle plate.

On Gen IV motors, the throttle body has a different bolt pattern, so going to a cable setup gets more pricy.

If you were a smart guy, you could build a setup to pull the cable properly pulled off the drive by wire pedal.

The ultimate point is that if you want the 700R4/4L60 trans, its probably easier in the long run to use the 4L60e that goes with the motor, no flexplate adapter and TV cable stuff to deal with...

 

Let me know when you are ready to sell that motor and I will slap it in the yota:flipoff2: Are stuffing this thing into the sammy?

 

yeah its going in the sami. find me a tranny for it.

 

gotcha that makes sence. and if i wanted a manual valve body 350 or 400 it wouldnt be an isue at all right? the tv cable just gets deleated?

 

Yes, you can run any of those, or a 700R4 with a full manual valve body.

But a TH350 isn't that hard to do with a kickdown cable, just attach it to the drive by wire pedal. Thats what I'm doing right now.

I think the TH400 has a kickdown switch, not a cable, so again, thats easy.

THe 700R4 is the only one thats hard.

 

To add to that not all the later PCM's will work with the DBC tune ie they won;t take the tune so you would need a new earlier PCM as well and none of the GEN IV ECM will work with DBC.

 

since every other combination was talked about and im finding them for cheap whats the story with 4l80e transmissions? would the computer still work etc?

 

Yes the PCM will work. If it came with a 4l60 then all you need to do is change/repin the trans plug and tune for the 4l80.

 

i FOUND IT CHEAPER TO BUY A NEW 6.0 FLEXPLATE WITH BOLTS THAN TO GET THE SPACER AND BOLTS TO ADD TO THE 5.3 FLEXPLATE. AND BY PURE COINSIDENSE IT HAPENED TO BE A DIRECT BOLT ON TO THE ALLISON CONVERTOR I CHOSE TO PUT IN FRONT OF MY TH400(SAME 6 BOLT PATTERN).