No such thing as a too cool trans according to the guy who built a hot rod 2004r for me. I would assume that applies to all tranys.

 

130-160 should be the normal temp. range for that slushbox

 

yes there is such a thing, but you rarely would have a problem unless your idling around in sub zero temps all the time. Basically the trans fluid needs to be warm enough to not allow condensation to occur in the system. Also the fluid needs to be "fluid" enough that its lubrications properties are maintained.

As stated above 160-180 is optimum from what I've been told

:usa:

 

What yellow sub said and you will have a hard time keeping it under 140-150 with your engine running anyhow.

 

Thought I'd keep this thread updated with some actaul results since most of my searchs prior to the install didn't turn up much.

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=2&Product_Code=4590

This is the cooler I installed on my truck over the weekend. I installed this cooler between the grill and the air conditioning condenser leaving ~2" of air space between them. It has direct air flow thru the grill while driving and has some air movement from the engine's fan while sitting still.

On the 4R70W transmission, the output line to the radiator is 5/16" with 1/4 pipe thread fittings. The line size connecting the radiator to the factory cooler is 3/8". I used compression fittings to spice the lines as needed (change from steel to rubber in order to connect the cooler and to 'T' the output line at the transmission).

I've had a chance to drive it a little now to and from work and the temperature ranges are as follow:

10-15 mile trips, no traffic with morning temp's being around 60-65 degrees I'm seeing oil temperatures between 120-140. It takes about twice as long (distance) before the temp's reach that level (about 1/2 the trip).

10-15 mile trips no traffic with day time/afternoon temps around 85 yeilds oil temp's between 145-160. The temperature will climb quickly during acceleration, but cool back to the 145 mark within 1/2 mile or so after getting to speed.

In heavy stop & go traffic with day time temps around 85 degrees will run around 155-165 degrees. Once traffic opens back up, it takes about 1/2 mile for the oil temperature to drop back to the 145 mark.

I should be towing the rig out for a day ride this weekend, I will report those temperatures as well.

 

Hmmm mine runs 210-220 AFTER the factory cooler not hauling anything... Yep nothing wrong with that tranny (Says the tech at the dealer)

 

Hmmm mine runs 210-220 AFTER the factory cooler not hauling anything... Yep nothing wrong with that tranny (Says the tech at the dealer)

Where are your temp senders located?

 

http://www.tciauto.com/tech_info/trans_life_expectancy.htm

Check out this site. Normally running at the 220 mark seems way to high.

 

I agree with 440-fide. Your Trans temp on your gauge has alot to do with where your sender is located. In the pressure line coming out of the trans to the cooler is the most accurate as that is torque converter temp. The highest temp the fluid will reach. If your sender is in the pan you are not going to get an accurate reading.

 

you should do a little research on the specs. of the tranny fluid if you are getting it to 220 on a regular basis. I think the fluid starts breaking down around the 200 degree mark.

 

you should do a little research on the specs. of the tranny fluid if you are getting it to 220 on a regular basis. I think the fluid starts breaking down around the 200 degree mark.

I heard it was 170, and for every 20 over the tranny fluid's life is cut in half.

So if it's good for 50,000 miles at 170, at 210 its only good for 12,500 miles.

 

Towed the rig about 120 miles this weekend. Here's the temp results.

Towing speeds varied between 50-70 MPH (2 lane vs interstate). Morning and afternoon temperatures ranged between 60-65 degree.

For the most part, oil temperatures stayed in the 155-165 degree mark. Significant increases when pulling a hill and down shifting to the 190 degree mark. Most of that increase came fromt he torque converter being unlocked (wasn't paying attention or it wouldn't have done that). If I watched what I did, let the truck lug down to a speed where it would down-shift directly to a "locked" (torque converter) gear, the temp barely even changed (maybe +5 degree). Even when the temp's were pushing 190, it only takes a mile or so for it to drop back to the 155-165 range.

Heat builds fast when the torque converter is unlocked so do what you can to get it into a "locked" position. Down shift manually, lug it till you know it will change to a locked position, slow down. Just for an example, if the converter is unlocked, it takes less than 1/4 mile for the temp to push over 190 degree.

Hope this will help someone else out there.

 

Where are your temp senders located?

Right off the in radiator cooler in line with the cooler line. But its the output line

 

Towed the rig about 120 miles this weekend. Here's the temp results.

Towing speeds varied between 50-70 MPH (2 lane vs interstate). Morning and afternoon temperatures ranged between 60-65 degree.

For the most part, oil temperatures stayed in the 155-165 degree mark. Significant increases when pulling a hill and down shifting to the 190 degree mark. Most of that increase came fromt he torque converter being unlocked (wasn't paying attention or it wouldn't have done that). If I watched what I did, let the truck lug down to a speed where it would down-shift directly to a "locked" (torque converter) gear, the temp barely even changed (maybe +5 degree). Even when the temp's were pushing 190, it only takes a mile or so for it to drop back to the 155-165 range.

Heat builds fast when the torque converter is unlocked so do what you can to get it into a "locked" position. Down shift manually, lug it till you know it will change to a locked position, slow down. Just for an example, if the converter is unlocked, it takes less than 1/4 mile for the temp to push over 190 degree.

Hope this will help someone else out there.

I'm sure this is probably different for each transmission, but how do you know that the torque converter is "locked" without manually down shifting?

Thanks,
Willy

 

I'm sure this is probably different for each transmission, but how do you know that the torque converter is "locked" without manually down shifting?

Thanks,
Willy

How do you not know? Monitor the engine speed (RPM) vs MPH to start with. If the converter is unlocked RPMs will climb and fall with just a flick of the skinny pedal / the engine doesn't feel load sensitive. Figure out what RPM's you run at what speed and in what gear aswell.

Most auto transmissions I've driven I could always just feel when the converter is unlocked.

 

sounds like you got the temperature thing right. i would say anything over 130 is good for daily driving. working at a ford dealership i see a lot of 4r70w's coming in. if you are running a 5.4l and that thing you better take it easy when towing and keep up on your tranny flushes every 30k or more often in when towing. those trannies are light duty and will often take a chit after not a lot of abuse. good luck

 

yes there is such a thing, but you rarely would have a problem unless your idling around in sub zero temps all the time. Basically the trans fluid needs to be warm enough to not allow condensation to occur in the system. Also the fluid needs to be "fluid" enough that its lubrications properties are maintained.

As stated above 160-180 is optimum from what I've been told

:usa:

BINGO!!! Hit the nail on the head...here's person who know his stuff.:smokin:

 

I'm sure this is probably different for each transmission, but how do you know that the torque converter is "locked" without manually down shifting?

Immediately following the shift into gear the RPMs will pause for a quick instant, then drop a few hundred.... kinda like a "two stage shift"

might be hard to tell on the factory gauges, but Ive always been able to tell on all my aftermarket tachs (Autometer).

:usa:

 

so I guess running two 35K lb coolers on a built e4od would be bad....? seems to be running great...

 

so I guess running two 35K lb coolers on a built e4od would be bad....? seems to be running great...

highly unlikely unless you're in Alaska in the winter time and never go above idle, but get a temp gauge and find out for sure... The B&M one is about $40 with the sending unit....cheap insurance and peace of mind.

:usa:

 

yea... been planning on it... I'm in SW Arkansas... bout 2 feet from HELL... so no chance of it getting too cold.... :haha:

 

Thanks for the info KyYota, I have a 97 F150 and plan on adding a cooler and gauge here soon. Where did you mount your temp gauge? Also, what motor do you have and what kind of weight were you towing when you got those temp numbers?

 

The gauge is mounted on the A-Pillar in a pod I ordered from e-gauges. 5.4L engine, extended cab, 4WD, short bed.

I'm not 100% sure on the weight as I have never weighed my rig. I'd guess the weight to be about 900-1000lbs for the trailer, the Yota probably tips the scales around 4-4.5k lbs so I would think around 5500lbs, maybe pushing 6k lbs as a max.

 

For years my vehicle’s temperature gauge on my dash would not go past the 2nd line or 1/4 rotation. Then suddenly one day while waiting for my daughter to get out of school, it suddenly went to just before the half way mark. Thinking there was something wrong, I took it to a mechanic. He tested it for several days, checking the actual temperature of the engine. The engine was running at the perfect temp. He explained that the engine needs to run hotter other wise it is constantly trying to work harder, which uses more gas and causes more emissions. we think that something got into the temperature control valve, preventing it from shutting completely. For whatever reason, it finally dislodged and allowed the gauge to work properly. The mechanic was absolutely right, because soon after I noticed that my gas mileage improved significantly. it went from 15L/100km to 11L/100km in the city. Long story short if your engine is too cool, it will waste gas and be harder on it.