You do know that you can only adjust some of the valves, then you have to turn the crank 360*, then you can adjust the rest of them, right?
Was the engine running, and running good, prior to you trying to adjust the valves? Reason I ask, I wonder if the timing belt is off a tooth and that is what is causing the valves that are supposed to be off the lobe to still be on the lobe just a bit.

 

I rebuilt the engine, new belt and valve job. Like I said I have adjusted many valves over the last 25 years. I have never come across this before. The machine shop stated that the the samurai was different..... Don't know why a valve adjustment would be different than any other engine.... I went by the book on this one to see if I was missing a step and yes I rotated the crank a full turn and have everything lined up. It runs good but thought I would post this to see if anyone else ran into this same situation.

Thanks for the reply

 

They should not be on the lobe, the valve should be completely closed. That suggests to me that either the cam/crank timing is off (belt off a tooth one way or the other), or the book is wrong.

Now the book is wrong in several sections when it comes to timing. Both in setting up the belt, and setting the valve lash.

FWIW,
the 1.3 and 1.6 will both run decent being a tooth off, one way will have more top end power, with less low end, and the other way vise versa. some guys will actually move them a tooth to get more power in the upper RPM band.

I hope that helps
--Sky

 

When I put the belt on I aligned the notches up exactly on both the crank and cam, just confusing that the book is wrong on witch valves to check. Also the stabbing of the distributor is 180 off. !! TDC on number 1 piston and have to turn the crank 360 then stab the distributor pointing to number one. Crazy huh

 

http://www.asianautopartsofaz.com/techpage.html

Valve Lash

Once again the FSM causes many guys (even your local Suzuki tech) to believe they have the distributor in correct. When in fact more than 50% of the time they are 180 off! Below are 2 drawings of where the distributor should be aiming and what valves should be set to the correct valve lash for your cam (some cams require different lash)



Set valve lash on intake valves #3 & # 4. and valve lash on exhaust #2 & #4. (red dots) Notice the rotor should be aiming at #4 spark plug on the distributor, and both timing marks on the timing pulleys should aim at up at the timing marks.

I suggest adjusting these valves first.

(*see why, below)









Set valve lash on intake valves #1 & # 2. and valve lash on exhaust #1 & #3. (red dots) Notice the rotor should be aiming at #1 spark plug on the distributor, and both timing marks on the timing pulleys should aim at each other. I adjust these valves last.

*(why) Now all you need to do is turn the crank 1/4 turn clockwise to cause the number 4 intake rocker arm to push down & (open) number 4 intake valve......this will allow just enough room to install the valve cover without moving the distributor.







God Bless,
David B.

 

Wow. That totally sucks that the books are wrong! Now I'm glad that I left the book in the house when I rebuilt my motor.

 

See, I knew I wasn't going nutz when I was adjusting the valves! Thanks and this post should be kept handy.

 

What "books" are you guys referring to that are wrong on either the distributor installation and/or which valves to check? I looked in the FSM and even the Haynes manual and didn't see anything in either that is incorrect, when it comes to distributor installation or checking valves (maybe I have a different version of these books). If something is incorrect in them, got a page number I can reference?

 

Look up the valve adjustment in the book, then try it yourself and you will see the rocker is on the lobe when you try to adjust the valves. Don't have the page number but if you have the full service manual you will understand what I am talking about.

 

Like I said, both of mine are correct. You must have a different version than I do.