FWIW, I used 18 GA and got a bending brake from Harbor Frieght for $50. I didn't need to bend anything wider than 30" so it worked flawlessly!

Good lookin rig there!

 

My local steel supplier can give me 4x10 sheets of .040" or .063" pre-painted aluminum for about $115(the same stuff they use on enclosed trailers). I'm then going to color match the paint for my grill/hood/etc to the aluminum I buy.

 

I used 1/2" OD tube, welded tabs and nuts on it, bent it accordingly, and framed out my tranny tunnel and dash. We cut 1/8" aluminum laying around to make the panel inserts for the framing, avoiding having to bend but 1 panel. If I used steel would have probably gone with 18 or 20 guage. I originally made my dash from 22 and although it was solid enough with everything bolted in, it seemed to thin.

 

I bent some brackets that I welded to the tube and was parallel with the top. I added a PEM nut so I could remove the panels. It workes really well. I can bend some for any size tube if anyone is interested, with or without a hole or PEM nut.

 

if you're not going to get into structural ribs then go with 16ga. for the floor. 18ga is too thin unless you have a lot of sub structure. Often times you can make patterns & take the sheets to a sheet metal fab shop & they'll bend it up for you. the steert rod guys always use 16ga. for the floor & usually 16ga for the firewall. sometimes they'll use 18 but not often. 16ga,. is also easier to weld. Search for Lame's rig ("floor is half done") for more ideas. You'll need a pretty stout bender to work with 16 ga. tho'.

 

What about this
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91012
For $179 seems worth it.

Found Lame's thread, good stuff there. Pics help. Thanks

 

floor skins without any sub-structure or "X" bent into them, I'd go 16ga.

dash panels, non-contact/no-weight structure panels could go 20 ga.

side-panels for rock protection/sliders, I'd go 10-14ga AR steel.......

(AR steel) = abrasion-resistant.... very hard stuff. comon use for stuff

like caterpiller hoods, floor panels, anything needing to have a 50-year

equipment-duty hard life........... not very easy to find, not cheap when

you do find it.........

--Sherpa

 

Lame's thread:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=212505&highlight=floor+half

 

Id use stainless steel for the firewall and keep everything else aluminum

 

I made mine out of 1/8" aluminum with the 30" HF brake.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=169216

More here
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=304216&page=2&pp=25

 

that is a very nice rig you have there please let us know how it turns out

 

i'm at this same crossroad. feel like i can't finish my beater till i get the skins hooked up, then i can wire it nicely. great topic. nice rig.

 

i would use 16 ga for the floor. you could roll some beads or "ribs" in the floor to add strength if you have access to a bead roller or pulmax or know a shop that might. stainless would be cool for a dash but 20 ga would do the trick to. you can do a lot of shaping with a few hammers, slapers, shaping bags and a shrinker/stretcher if you can get a hold of some. theres lots and lots of options out there, good luck! by the way sweet rig.

 

I know I always enjoy seeing people that start a thread, get good info, then follow up with what they did instead of the typical web wheeler BS. So, here's the latest. I didn't know where the hell to start before I posted, so I took the advice I got from here, and decided to go with 14ga sheet metal for the floorpan/firewall and .090" aluminum for the side skins and roof. I think the thicknesses are going to be perfect and so far it's been a breeze to work with. Plus, I think it looks great. Thanks for the info guys :beer: . Here's a couple pics...the little lady was in the shop with me so she jumped in

 

Nice work (on the rig and the helper )

Did you ending up buying the HF brake? Which one and how well did it work.

And it's been said, but nice rig. Keep us posted.

 

No, the sheetmetal ran me a little over $100/sheet (5x10) so I said screw it. My buddy brought his badass plasma down to my shop and we just went to town. Thanks for the comments

 

If you look at this for about an hour you can start to see a welder and a buggy in the picture.

It looks like you are putting the skins on with a combination of tabs to screw-mount and welding the skins right to the tube. What panels are you welding and what panels are you screwing on? Rig looks great.

 

I'm using tabs to bolt on the side panels...they are aluminum and I want them to be easily removeable. I'm welding in pretty much everything else (sheet metal) unless I feel like I want to be able to take it off easily (ie tranny access, t-case access, etc).

 

How thick are your body tabs? I bought some thin ones from AA but I'm not sure they are stout enough. Where did you get them?

 

I've gotta put my aluminum floorboard adn sides in soon. I'm planning on makeing 1/8" solid tabs, predrilling, and then running self tapping screws through the aluminum and the tabs. Think this will hold up? On wider spans, I'll be building a substructure.

 

I got my tabs from AA. They are by far the cheapest for this kinda stuff. After a lot of research I used part# AA-023-D Body Tab. They are .125" thick with a 1/4" hole and have the little wings. They are definitely stout enough for panels.

Csudman, make it easy on yourself and order the tabs

 

I am getting started on Rocktoy's floor. Gunna be .90 alum, tig welded panels together.

*******, on the side panels, it is nice to have the tops roll over the bar. Makes it feel nice to the arms, does not rattle. I am going to use #10 pan head screws for the side panels, and just drill-n-tap the cage.

 

I got my tabs from AA. They are by far the cheapest for this kinda stuff. After a lot of research I used part# AA-023-D Body Tab. They are .125" thick with a 1/4" hole and have the little wings. They are definitely stout enough for panels.

Csudman, make it easy on yourself and order the tabs

A slightly different tab that has more sureface area and costs a bit less is the AA-028-*. Different hole sizes available and still .125 material.
http://www.aa-mfg.com/pdshop/shop/item.asp?itemid=278


-Wayne

 

If you look at this for about an hour you can start to see a welder and a buggy in the picture.

WHERE?!? :flipoff2:





nice looking...looks like it's gonna be a runner soon!


.

 

Anyone every try Bulitex for pannels? I think you might beable to bend it using heat, and it seems easy to repair (according to the site).