Continue of TF999 Breather Vent Relocate Write up

11. I used a 1/4 inch tapered pipe fitting and a drill bit and tap to match. Here is the grease doing it's job.

12. Only tap a few threads at a time. You don't want to over shoot or the fitting will not stop screwing in where you're wanting it to get tight and stop at. Frequently take the tap out and check how far your fitting screws in.

13. Right angle fitting with hose adapter screwed in (purchased from ACE hardware, under $8 for the 2 brass pieces and the 5/16" fuel line used as the breather line.) Don't forget your teflon tape.

14. Here is a shot inside. Pulled out the greased paper, no shavings to be seen. See the little girl up there on top.

15. Reinstall the pump housing. She took a couple taps with the rubber mallet to get her in close enough for the bolts to catch. Pull her back in nice and slow, tighten in the criss/cross pattern.

16. Clamp your hose onto the new vent with a hose clamp. Now you're venting up and out of the reach of that H2O! Don't know what Jeep engineers were thinkin' but this is how it should have been shipped from the factory.

Good times,
Adam

 

I'm betting it's very similar for my 727. Might have to look into that while I have my tranny out here soon.


edit: nice write up.

 

LOCKEDUP, great write-up!

 

Good idea, but here are a couple of things you may want and not want to do. Tap the pump back in with a plastic hammer, and dead blow, the handle of your hammer, whatever, dont pull the pump in with the bolts. I would have put new bushing and seal in the front pump half when it was apart, and put a new case gasket, and outer o-ring on the pump.

 

Also, a little welding tip I picked up.
Clamp a piece of flat Aluminum to the bottom side (machined surface) of the piece that you are welding in this pic. This technique is used when trying to fill a hole or gap while welding vertically. The molten steel puddle produced while welding stops at the Aluminum and very little grinding (if any) will be required.

Edit: Get some real welding gloves. Those dont stop shit.

 

Also, a little welding tip I picked up.
Clamp a piece of flat Aluminum to the bottom side (machined surface) of the piece that you are welding in this pic. This technique is used when trying to fill a hole or gap while welding vertically. The molten steel puddle produced while welding stops at the Aluminum and very little grinding (if any) will be required.
[IM]http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l183/rukenheb/vent%20relocate/DSCN0607.jpg[/IMG]
Edit: Get some real welding gloves. Those dont stop shit.

brass works well for this too

 

This tranny was just rebuilt approx 2k miles ago, all the seals and gaskets are essentially still new. The gloves are leather reinforced with kevlar in the knuckles and backhands, they work great for welding. This is my garage, not a steel fab shop. Sometimes us ******** have to make due with whatcha got on hand. AJ

 

yeah we can tell by your work bench

 

Thanks for the thread have been thinking about this problem for a while after i sank my tj and killed my tranny. Now standing water scares me and waterfalls around cookeville are some of my favorite obsticales...

 

I posted something similar to this about four or five years ago. I have done a few dozen of these since then.

I just tap the pump with a 1/8 NPT plug. Just make sure you get a plug that does not stick out too far, or the converter will hit it. I also put my vent right behind where the second gear band is. I did this to keep fluid from slinging into the vent line off of the rotating internals.

A 727 is similar, but different. The second pump half does not go all the way to the vent, so there is a plastic deflector on the inside to keep fluid from seeping out. Remove this, tap and plug.

 

GREAT WRITE UP! This is the best info I have found and looking to do this to mine. I already killed it one time and couldn't find the info to do this before I had to re-install it. THANKS!

 

easy way????

On my tf727, I just threaded the front cover. I greased the tap real well while doing so. Then I installed a 1/8" 90 street elbow into it, and ran a 1/8" pipe right out the top of the bellhousing via a hole I bored through it. Ran a hose up the firewall. I did it last winter and have had no problems since.


flame away :mad3:

 

On my tf727, I just threaded the front cover. I greased the tap real well while doing so. Then I installed a 1/8" 90 street elbow into it, and ran a 1/8" pipe right out the top of the bellhousing via a hole I bored through it. Ran a hose up the firewall. I did it last winter and have had no problems since.


flame away :mad3:

Cant do that with a 999, there just isnt enough room. 727s have a bit more clearance, but still to close for comfort for me.

 

I haven't tried this, but the ford c5 tranny that I have that came out of a bronco II has the breather in the tail shaft adapter housing. I would think that you may be able to remove the adapter housing, drill and tap it and reinstall the housing without disassembling the tf904 or 727 tranny. You would of course have to tap the original breather hole in the pump and put a plug in it.

Otherwise, nice write up!

 

I put a vent in my tailhousing on my TF904 and it doesn't work. It would blow out transmission fluid constantly so I put a catch can on it and was amazed that the catch can would be full after a few runs. The vent needs to be up front and up high IMO.

 

Dude this is so useful I am just about to tear into my tf 999 thank you !!!!

 

you should get a red star and actually upload the pics... This great write up will be useless in a year when you move or delete your pictures..

 

so you welded cast iron with a mig I am confused??? I know you can do it with stick welding and specialty rod.

I know you cannot with regular wire and argon because like 5 years ago I tried mig welding a lift point for this massive cast iron part and ended up with a frown on my face.

I like the tapping idea with a pipe plug by the way

 

I did some searching, the pump may actually be cast steel... My searches were inconclusive. The specialty rod you are referring to is a high-nickel rod. Any-who, I have run into some "mishaps" in the past with welding on cast iron w/ the MIG, but only when it was a weld that was structural/weight bearing. Other simple welds have always held just fine.

In this situation, the weld is just a plug that isn't going to be seeing too much (if any) stress.

The tapping and then using a steel plug would work just as well. However, the pump would still have to be torn down to the same point in order to properly get the tap to advance and then contain all the metal shavings. I like the weld type plug. Mainly because I didn't have to run to town to get any parts to make it work. The weld is "one size fits all." AJ

 

what is the best way to take out the transmission so i can do this as i wonting to do it in my garage is it possible or shod i go to some shop and how much shod i pay to have it dun at a shop if i have to go there

 

Vent placement?

I am getting ready to finish this up on a tranny that is going in my project TJ. I have the original hole all plugged and welded. What I am not sure about, this being the first auto tranny that I have ever worked on, is if it matters how far back the vent is on the tranny?

So does it matter?

 

I am getting ready to finish this up on a tranny that is going in my project TJ. I have the original hole all plugged and welded. What I am not sure about, this being the first auto tranny that I have ever worked on, is if it matters how far back the vent is on the tranny?

So does it matter?

Look where lockedup put his vent. Thats about where I do mine, right behind where the front band is.

 

I can see where he put it in the pictures. My question is if it is back another .5 to 1" from that will it matter?

 

Just put it behind where the band is. You will see the band as soon as you remove the pump. You can get an idea where it is at by connecting an imaginary line between the adjuster stud and the servo.

 

Looks pretty much identical for a 727 :grinpimp:

HalfFastFord and I did mine today.

 

Good work done on that tranny, couldn't have done it better myself!


.

 

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Just finished my tranny vent this weekend.

For anyone else out there looking to do this I recommend 2 pcs of angle iron roughly 20" long to span the bellhousing. Then 2 sections of threaded rod 3/8x16 roughly 8-10" long to work as a puller to get the pump out. It made life a whole lot easier.

I cut a piece of rod stock that we had laying around and TIG'd it into the pump housing. This way we didn't have to worry about weld spatter.

 

We just screwed 2 bolts into the threaded holes. they pushed the pump housing out, then ou could pull it off with your hands.

 

I jb welded a 90 degree fitting in the hole. Then I drilled through the bell housing, ran a copper tubing from the fitting to right outside the bell housing, then a rubber trans line up to the firewall. This was on my 32rh in my tj. I did this last summer.

 

I guess that works too, but I spent a whopping $15 to do it the original way, and $8 of that was for the 1/4-npt tap for the hole. *shrug*

This way I can also inspect my vent tube to make sure there are no cracks, etc.

 

We just screwed 2 bolts into the threaded holes. they pushed the pump housing out, then ou could pull it off with your hands.

I started to do that and noticed that it started to destroy the threads in the AL. housing. I thought using the threaded rod for a puller was a whole lot better. Mine also needed to be almost all the way out before I could move it by hand.

 

mine had been rebuilt about 100 miles ago which probably helped. We were able to push it out with those two bolts using 1/4 drive ratchets. No real pressure at all.